7.5:1 Butterfly Wing Scale

RyanB said:
Probably the highest magnification I have achieved to date. This was done by coupling a reversed 24mm Sigma Superwide to the front of a 180mm Meyer Optik Primotar lens. Focus stack of 32 layers blended in Affinity.
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:eek:
That's really cool, Ryan. It kinda looks like fabric on first glance ;)
 
That's amazing! Well done and thanks so much for sharing it.
 
Cool, I might have to try that...

I don't actually know just how much magnification my setup can actually generate; but I have taken a picture of the individual LED's in my phone's display.
 
lindsay said:
That's amazing! Well done and thanks so much for sharing it.
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Thanks Lindsay!
sk66 said:
Cool, I might have to try that...

I don't actually know just how much magnification my setup can actually generate; but I have taken a picture of the individual LED's in my phone's display.
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Thanks, first thing I tried out was the led's in my monitor.
Really makes your eyes go a bit funny.
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I believe the general method of calculating the magnification of a reversed coupled lens setup is to divide the main lens focal length by the reversed lens focal length.

The above was 180/24=7.5 although I didn't factor in the extension tube I used to increase the image circle to avoid vignetting. It probably only added .3-.5x (maybe less) at a push so I couldn't be bothered to figure out the equations.

I also added an extension tube to the back of the reversed lens to act as a lens hood to protect and reduce flaring as in reverse the back element (now the front) is very prominent and prone to flare using studio strobes.
 
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RyanB said:
Thanks Lindsay!

Thanks, first thing I tried out was the led's in my monitor.
Really makes your eyes go a bit funny.
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I believe the general method of calculating the magnification of a reversed coupled lens setup is to divide the main lens focal length by the reversed lens focal length.

The above was 180/24=7.5 although I didn't factor in the extension tube I used to increase the image circle to avoid vignetting. It probably only added .3-.5x (maybe less) at a push so I couldn't be bothered to figure out the equations.

I also added an extension tube to the back of the reversed lens to act as a lens hood to protect and reduce flaring as in reverse the back element (now the front) is very prominent and prone to flare using studio strobes.
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My high magnification macro setup is a reversed 50mm enlarger lens on a novoflex tilt shift bellows, but the same basic thin lens formula applies... S1/S2 (optical center to subject ÷ optical center to sensor). But I would have to take measurements; probably easier to just photograph ruler at the same extension.
 
RyanB said:
Really makes your eyes go a bit funny.
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Make it large on your monitor and stare at a green LED for 15-20 seconds, then move your focus to a red or a blue LED. The color/luminance shifts are due to fatigue of the correlated long (R), medium (G), and short (B) cones in the eye.

This is my example... funny how the arrangement is so different.
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sk66 said:
Make it large on your monitor and stare at a green LED for 15-20 seconds, then move your focus to a red or a blue LED. The color/luminance shifts are due to fatigue of the correlated long (R), medium (G), and short (B) cones in the eye.

This is my example... funny how the arrangement is so different.
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Wow you got that sharp, I was really struggling to get any sharpness without strobes to freeze the scene.
My slide rail/ tripod I have is ok with lighter kit but the weight of the Primotar (over 1kg on its own) really makes camera movement and focus in general difficult. I'm having to adjust in live view, wait for the shake to slow check the focus and then even with a 10s timer the shake from hitting the shutter button barely has time to stop before actuation.

sk66 said:
Sorry for dragging the post off topic!
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No worries its all on topic as far as I can see. Always happy to hear/ learn from others as to how they approach extreme macro as I don't know too many people who even dabble and I'm far from an expert.
 
RyanB said:
Wow you got that sharp, I was really struggling to get any sharpness without strobes to freeze the scene.
My slide rail/ tripod I have is ok with lighter kit but the weight of the Primotar (over 1kg on its own) really makes camera movement and focus in general difficult. I'm having to adjust in live view, wait for the shake to slow check the focus and then even with a 10s timer the shake from hitting the shutter button barely has time to stop before actuation.
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Electronic shutter, wireless remote, and a beefy tripod/head (Benbo Classic #2 w/ Manfrotto 405)... still took more than a few tries. If I was being a little more serious about it I would have also used a macro rail setup and shot tethered.

And editing helps a lot :). Also a longer SS would have helped your example as it looks like you caught some refresh rate exposure banding. The edit is really just coarse contrast adjustment as there isn't really much pixel level detail

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