Corrupt images (thumbnail imagines ok)

Messages
81
Name
David
Edit My Images
No
I have a number of photo's in jpg the thumb nail (small pic) is ok but the enlarged image shows blank and discoloured areas. I have enclosed a photo as an example is there any software that I could use to correct this, I only have a few photo's to repair.

Please bear in mind I'm not a techy person.

Any help would be appreciated thank you.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2517 (1).JPG
    DSCN2517 (1).JPG
    143.1 KB · Views: 7
Do you have raw or just the jpegs? Theres a program that extracts the thumbnail from raw. I dont think it works on the jpeg. I try and find out. Edit it doesnt work with jpegs, just had a go.
 
Last edited:
I had that quite a lot a few years ago with Canon and Nikon compacts, never had it with Panasonic, though it may be nothing to do with the make of camera, as I was also told that it was an error introduced whilst copying the files on the PC. Never found a solid reason for it that actually made sense,
I did find there were programmes to repair the file, but never found a free one :)


Canon A10 from 2001
102-0214_IMG-Duplicate00001.jpg
 
Last edited:
Do you have raw or just the jpegs? Theres a program that extracts the thumbnail from raw. I dont think it works on the jpeg. I try and find out. Edit it doesnt work with jpegs, just had a go.
It's jpg which I think is jpeg, never came across saving the file as "raw" until reading up on it and joining this forum.

This gives rise to another question is it best to save images in "raw" and then convert then to jpeg?
 
It's jpg which I think is jpeg, never came across saving the file as "raw" until reading up on it and joining this forum.

This gives rise to another question is it best to save images in "raw" and then convert then to jpeg?
If this is looking at a copy of the file, then it's worth trying to copy it to your PC again - It might just be corruption of the file during the original copy (if you're lucky).

A lot of people do prefer to shoot in RAW, then use that to generate the final jpeg - raw allows a lot more adjustment in editing as it holds more information, but it does mean you need to learn how to get the best from your raw images, and be happy to spend the time processing each image.
 
It's jpg which I think is jpeg, never came across saving the file as "raw" until reading up on it and joining this forum.

This gives rise to another question is it best to save images in "raw" and then convert then to jpeg?
Raw has more data, and gives more processing options as things like colour are not "baked in" Usually Raw has a bit more exposure leeway in highlights and shadows too.
I tend to shoot Raw and Jpeg, the raw for the serious editing, the Jpeg for a quick edit (I sometimes do a really quick montage off the days pics) But at the end of the day it's personal choice, if you like Jpeg and get the results you like stick with it.
 
Thanks for the insight..............................I might have a look at raw. at the moment I'll stick with jpg as I like to get everything right before I get the shot, I believe the image should be as is, with perhaps only cropping.
 
Thanks for the insight..............................I might have a look at raw. at the moment I'll stick with jpg as I like to get everything right before I get the shot, I believe the image should be as is, with perhaps only cropping.

Jpeg straight out of camera is not as it should be as the camera edits the image. The only way to get a shot accurate would be to shoot raw and edit for the conditions on the day.
 
Thanks for the insight..............................I might have a look at raw. at the moment I'll stick with jpg as I like to get everything right before I get the shot, I believe the image should be as is, with perhaps only cropping.
To add to what others have said on believing "the image should be as is".

I'm not entirely sure what you mean by this, but...

The way camera sensors record light doesn't match the way the human eyes sees light. To make it more complicated, the way the human eye/brain "sees" colour doesn't match the way the human brain "remembers" colour. And, to further complicate things, every individual sees light (colour, saturation and contrast) differently and there are cultural and geographical variation in the way people see/remember colours. In general we remember colours as brighter, more saturated, contrastier and warmer than they really were.

With out of the camera JEPGs the camera is using the same raw data, saved in a raw file, to create the in-camera JPEG. Generally, there is no attempt by the camera manufacturers to create JPEGs with scientifically "accurate" colour, saturation or contrast because that isn't what human beings see or remember.

In contrast, technologists and psychologists work on getting the in-camera processing to create visually pleasing results based on how some sort of "average" human being" remembers" colours, But as humans we all remember colours differently, we subjectively "like" some colour representations better than others (even if they are obviously unrealistic) and cameras allow for this by offering a choice of how the JPEGs are processed (styles/presets/emulations).

If you like one of the JPEG styles offered by your camera then that's fine, but if you want photographs that give an accurate representation of "what you saw/remember" in terms of colour, sharpness and contrast , then you need to save as a raw, and do you own processing.

The raw file only contains numbers and you can't "see" a raw file as an image. When raw files are opened in a raw processor like lightroom, the raw processor creates a jpeg from the raw data so you can see what an image of the data looks like. At this stage, just as with the JPEG straight out the camera, you are seeing the "pleasing" colours that have been decided by the people who make the software. And, as with the camera, you can choose different presets/style (some which might match those offered by your camera) to get the colours, contrast. saturation you like best.

The advantage of using RAW is that you still have all the data collected by the camera available to create the colours you want. Starting with a JPEG from the camera some of that data is lost and this affects how much you can manipulate the colours. This might restrict you being able to get colours that match the colours you saw/remember.

There are of course other things, e.g the characteristics of the screen you are viewing the picture on, or if you are looking at prints the colour and brightness of the light illuminating them, will affect the colour people see.

For most people this isn't something to get all that bothered about, because there are so many variables that affect how colour is seen. However, if you are fussy and want to feel that the colours in your picture match the colours you remember seeing (rather than the colours the camera manufacturer thinks you want to see) then you probably need to use raw files and take control of how the colour looks.
 
I'll stick with jpg as I like to get everything right before I get the shot, I believe the image should be as is, with perhaps only cropping.
What constitutes 'right', I wonder. A photographic image straight from the camera is just an artefact, produced by a device (& sometimes also chemical processes) according to a varying mix of built-in programming & on-the-spot human interventions. There are lots of approximations built in to those sequenced operations.

Thus there can be no 'right', but just a range of possible satisfactions in terms of how an image communicates. It could even be argued that not to process images individually, especially in terms of colour & tone, is a form of laziness & a loss of potential.

Admittedly, the above considerations might be less relevant if the only aim is to portray a recognisable 'thing', like ticking a box, without considering the in-depth qualities of the image as a whole work.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top