The way you expose the film can also effect reticulation (formation of silver crystals during the developing stage) i.e. the effect you get by using a fast shutter speed and wide aperture is subtly different to a small aperture and longer exposure, so this might be interesting for you to explore. HP5 gives a nice even grain and is fairly forgiving.
I thought it also described the way the silver crystals 'grew' in the emulsion during exposure. I understand that film becomes less sensitive to light the longer it is exposed, prehaps that is the source of my confusion. Still worth experimenting with though.
For golf ball grain, try one of the 400 films (HP5 or Tri-X) and push them to 1600 or further. You could even go with a slower film (FP4) pushed that far but IIRC that doesn't work quite as well. IIRC (and it was a long time ago!), a general purpose developer (for film and prints) will give coarser grain than a specialist film developer. Sorry, can't remember more.
You can always push the 3200 to 6400 and beyond to make it granier. T-Max is particularly fine grain film. Also maybe shoot on 35mm as 6x6 is a bit big to make enlargements from, again blow up a 35mm neg and watch the grain!
Since the aim of the film manufacturers over the years has been to reduce grain size you need to find ways in which to abuse the chemistry of your film to turn back the clock.
This requires a lot of experimentation to find the technique that achieves the result you require. As with any experimentation it is vital to ensure that you keep detailed records since without them it will be impossible to reproduce reliably once you get the technique that works for you.
Before trying anything it is also important to have arrived at a consistent technique for developing "normally", since you need a solid starting point from which to start mucking about
As well as pushing a fast film, a degree of over or under exposure will tend to increase visible grain. Over exposure is preferable for this effect at the expense of blown highlights since it leaves more silver in the negative for you to abuse and as a bonus gives a slight effective contrast shift in the "hard" direction when you come to print on multigrade paper (especially if a condenser head enlarger is used).
Over dilution of developer and/or low temperature with extended development time play a part as well as using general purpose or even print developer.
Very high temperature can produce reticulation effects where the emulsion cracks but this is not consistent and probably not the effect you require.
Another element to consider is to reduce agitation - this allows chemical eddies to arise next to the emulsion surface redepositing removed silver and increasing grain size nicely. This will require a further extension to the time as the developer next to the film becomes locally depleted. The normal regime suggested is to agitate normally for the first and last minute only and leave it alone for the entire time in between.
You can further emphasise grain by enlargement at the printing stage so use a wider lens than you would normally and print only a small section of the neg.
Printing on harder paper also will help although you lose some mid tones as well. I would suggest grade 3 1/2 on a condenser enlarger and grade 4 on a diffuser as a good starting point depending on the density of the negative (see above).
Hope that at least some of these random comments help!
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