Fomopan 100 - speed error

Kell

Kell

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Kell
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I loaded my Ricoh PAS with some Fomopan 100 but forgot to adjust the ASA in camera to the right speed.

Meaning I’ve shot the whole roll with the camera thinking it was 400.

Will this type of film stand up to being pulled (or pushed) back to 100 in development?

I’ve never had to ask for this to be done before.

I normally use FilmDev so would I just tell them I shot it at 400 and let them do the rest?

Thanks in advance.
 
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As it stands it is two stops underexposed and needs pushing to 400 to match the exposure setting.
It should be doable but will increase in contrast. Whether or not they offer the service can only be found out by asking.
There will be something of a surcharge because your film will need to be processed individually.
 
From my experience they've been pretty good about pushing film.
 
Thanks all.

I’m fairly sure they do do it.

Dropped them a line yesterday but obviously it’s the weekend so not expecting to hear back till Monday.

Was more interested in seeing whether that particular stock can be pushed. But it seems like no one is suggesting it can’t be done so if they are willing to give it a go then I’ll do it.
 
Kell said:
Thanks all.

I’m fairly sure they do do it.

Dropped them a line yesterday but obviously it’s the weekend so not expecting to hear back till Monday.

Was more interested in seeing whether that particular stock can be pushed. But it seems like no one is suggesting it can’t be done so if they are willing to give it a go then I’ll do it.
Click to expand...
Pretty much any film ca be pushed. However the greater the push the lager the grain and higher the contrast.
In the late 40's early 50's there was a craze for developing to infinity. This entailed developing in. A standard developer like D76 for an hour or more till no more density could be obtained. It increased the speed of the then fairly slow films by close to 4 1/2 stops. The contrast problem could be solved by a mixture of burning and dodging and using a softer grade of paper. (this was pre variable contrast papers)

I Used this process quite a lot and discovered that if you used any reflect light exposure meter by pointing directly at the main light source, as if it were an incident meter, then this also gave about a 4 1/2 stop adjusted reading. So it could be used directly for setting exposure. I can see no reason why this process would not work just as well today.
.
 
I've used Ag repeatedly to push HP5 and Harman K400 two stops with great success.
 
Kell said:
Was more interested in seeing whether that particular stock can be pushed. But it seems like no one is suggesting it can’t be done so if they are willing to give it a go then I’ll do it.
Click to expand...

This Flickr search gives lots of examples of Fomapan 100 shot at 400asa:

www.flickr.com

Flickr Search — “400”

www.flickr.com www.flickr.com
 
I've shot it at 400 before (also by mistake). The grain is a bit chunkier, and the contrast a bit more pronounced, but you might like that :)
 
just as you would expect added contrast and grain.
Always better something than nothing.
 
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I don't see an awful lot wrong with those. Nothing that a few tweaks wouldn't sort out.
 
TBH - those are the tweaked ones. The SOOC ones weren't actually as contrasty as I like.

Though I will reiterate here, I think my monitor makes everything look lighter than it is. As when I view stuff I've processed on other screens, it's super dark. So I may have overdone it.

Here's the originals of those.

000026960041 by Kell, on Flickr

000026960003 by Kell, on Flickr

000026960004 by Kell, on Flickr


000026960037 by Kell, on Flickr

000026960040 by Kell, on Flickr
 
Yup you need to sort your monitor out as you lost a lot of tonality.
You should be able to get a better result from these.
 
I think in this case less is definitely more. Having seen the originals there is very little wrong with them.
 
Yeah it’s hard to fully convey what I’m seeing my end.

But even viewing this thread on my phone, I’d say the originals are too washed out for me. Even comparing to the monitor screen. I can see they’re different, but still don’t have enough contrast for me.

Definitely need to look into my monitor. So to speak.
 
There is poor separation in the darker tones.. this can now only be improved with a curves adjustment.
This was caused by the original underexposure.
 
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