I'm new to Off Camera Flash. Can you give me any advice?

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photography27

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I am looking to take my portraits to the next level. I have used off camera flash once using the following below and was not overly pleased with the result compared to using no flash. I aimed for a 45 degree angle using high speed sync flash. I also noticed that shooting at a f/1.4 aperture was extremely soft and blurry, at f/4, it was much sharper.

* Camera: Canon R6
* Lens: Sigma ART 35mm 1.4 & EF 70-200ii 2.8
* Diffuser: 33mm White Umbrella
* Bracket: Godox S2 Bracket
* Stand: Neewer
* Flash: Godox V1C

Any advice on technique, gear, angles would be much appreciated.
 
This would be better moved to the lighting section.


A diffuser that size is pointless; even if it was 33cm it's about pointless... but that's not a show stopper; lighting doesn't have to be "soft," and if you do want soft there are other ways of achieving that.

F/1.4 leaves very little room for focus error/movement.

It would be much better to show results, and discuss/describe what you were trying to achieve... I can't give much constructive advice based on pure speculation...
 
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Check your Sigma art 1.4. I went to buy one last year and tried three in the shop, all focused short. The saleman said he wasnt supprised, theres a know issue with them apparently. I then tried the 17-35 1.8 and that was what I bought. That was super sharp wide open.
 
Not sure where to start as you’ve not said what results you got and what you want to improve?

Firstly though; have you disabled exp simulation? Helps both you and the camera see what you’re doing properly.

Secondly what is it you’re aiming to achieve? Why high speed sync? You haven’t given any indication of your settings.


If it’s any help; I have an R6 and the C1 setting has ISO400, 1/125 and f5.6 as a default setting for using flash.

Add to that my usual camera BBF setup is for the AF-on button to use single point focus for ‘things’ and the * button for eye AF.

This combo makes my camera a doddle to use, general photography I use AV with auto ISO, sports TV and C1 for flash. I very rarely have to change anything other than aperture in AV, and SS in TV.

There’s a full download online of ‘The Speedlighters Handbook’ which used to be the bible for this kinda stuff, but it’s not been updated for the later wireless systems or mirrorless cameras.
 
The other things I’d add if you’re new to flash photography are.

We don’t use light to control the highlights , it’s for controlling the shadows. Shadow = form = 3D effect.

Also there’s only 1 sun, it’s in the sky above you - should give you a simple clue about lighting position.

And if you’re aiming for soft light, the lights not close enough to your subject till it’s not quite in your way.
 
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Apologies for the delayed reply. This is the output from the photoshoot and first time I attempted off camera flash, I was expecting something more eye-catching I guess. This is another one light setup & was hoping to get similar results -
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlH0WnvbWUM


* IMG_0529 - F4 / 1/200 / ISO100 / 35MM
* IMG_0528 - F2.8 / 1/400 / ISO100 / 80MM
* IMG_0527 - F2.8 / 1/320 / ISO100 / 70MM
 

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The woman in the video has two lights on her: the lowish sun, behind and to camera right, and some fill flash from the left. The sun is doing the heavy lifting in this shot, lighting the background as well. Looking at the shadows on her from the fill flash, it’s a medium sized soft box or brolly just out of shot in the left. You’d need to ramp the power up quite a bit to complete with the sun.

If you have no sun, you could simulate it with another bare speed light from the same direction.

If you’re struggling for flash power, consider using a neutral density filter to keep your shutter speed in the “X-sync” range (below 1/200 for most mechanical shutters). High speed sync throws most of the light away.

(Or get a bigger light, or gaffer tape another flash to it)
 
Take some time to read the online free class "Strobist 101" and the others that pop up when you Google search for "Strobist 101". It will get you started very well.

"Full Manual" control of the camera works best when shooting indoors with strobes. Even the ISO should be in Manual and set to 100 for most work. Automatic Camera Mode re-computes the settings for each shot and comes up with different values for each shot, so the levels for follow-on shots will be different than the first. Manual keeps them the same. The first shot with flash can be done in "Automatic" if you then transfer the settings that the camera created into the "Manual Mode" for the follow-on shots (sometimes there is a button to do this automatically, but not always - read the camera and flash manuals.

Most camera and flash work best together when the camera shutter speed is set for the flash sync speed. Consult your manuals, but most cameras and flashes will have a 1/250 shutter setting, or maybe 1/200 setting (read the camera and flash manuals). Too fast and you will not get full use of the flash, too long and the flash will end before the shutter closes (dark bar portion of shot). When using flash, most times you will be leaving the camera shutter speed set on this "Sync Speed" and adjusting the strobe lights to attain correct exposure. Outdoors or in constant light, the shutter speed is the more common way to adjust for correct exposure. It doesn't work this way when using flash. Adjust the light levels of the flash to attain the desired exposure. This sounds complicated, but a few "Test shots" will tell you what is needed.

In my studio I usually raise the F-Stop setting just high enough to keep the "House Lights" from contaminating the shoot and I can leave them ON (kind of a "minimum light setting" in this use, but it also adjusts the "Depth of Field", so sometimes it needs to be used for that too. I usually start with F-8 and then work from there with the test shots. The first test shot made with no flash will tell you what works. If you get a completely black or nearly so shot, the F-Stop setting is high enough and you can leave the house lights on during the shoot. If the F-Stop settings need to be lower for the shoot I'll use either a modeling light in one of my strobes (which turns off automatically as each shot is taken). Otherwise, I have a wireless house light control with wireless switches located on each camera stand and also at my shooting PC, as well as the shooting room entrance where the original switch was, so I can turn the house lights OFF briefly for the shot and then back ON without needing to move in the darkness. For these remote switches there is a receiver module mounted inside of the electrical box behind my ceiling "House Light".

Charley
 
If you’re watching the video and you want to create dramatic portraits like that in bright sun. You have to check the kit he’s using.

It’s in the maths, the flash he’s using is about 5 stops more powerful than yours.

But all is not lost, you can do quite dramatic portraits with a speedlight and the sun, you just have to time it around sunset.

Or you buy the bigger flash.
 
You've had some great answers here:)

But maybe the video has confused you a bit, he's advocating the use of HSS as an alternative to using a ND filter, and most of us would opt for a ND filter for this type of shoot, it's much easier and in effect it does the same job as HSS but without losing most of the flash power.

I'm not saying that HSS is useless, but it isn't a beginner technique and, for a static subject, isn't needed at all. Maybe it's most useful function is to create an extra bullet point for the sellers, which often happens with photo gear.

Also, this video seems to be about directing the model, the presenter doesn't actually explain anything about his lighting approach :(

Look at the info that pops up in various places
Screenshot 2024-06-27 100544.jpg
f/1.4 (which he thinks is called F: 1.4) - very hard to focus correctly and lets in far too much light for this type of shot.
ISO 100 - fine
SS: 1/6400 - no need for this
Godox AD300: 1/2 - perfect for the job, but has at least twice the power of the average flashgun.

So, my advice to you, for this type of shot, is to set the shutter speed to the maximum for your camera, forget about HSS, set a smaller lens aperture (maybe around f/4) and use a ND filter to equally reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor, if needed at all. You probably will need a ND filter, without one and with the shutter speed at 1/250th, the "correct" aperture will be around f/10 in direct bright sunlight, so a x3 ND will probably be needed to achieve f/4.
 
DerbyTog said:
digital-photography-school.com

A Beginner’s Guide to Working With Flash Off-Camera

Off-camera flash is a great way to take your photos to the next level. But how can you use it for amazing results? It's all in this article!
digital-photography-school.com digital-photography-school.com

I searched off camera flash on google.
Click to expand...
And the answer you got isn’t any use to the OP. ;)

Though not entirely your fault, it wasn’t until they shared their attempt that it was obvious they were trying to balance with the sun.
 
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