Incorrect ISO recovery

[ashishtamhane]

So I made the classic noob error of not verifying what ISO the camera was set at. My understanding was that the Nikon F90x should detect the ISO of the film based on the DX coding and set it automatically, but for some reason it did not.

The film used is a Fujifilm 200 of which I have shot around 13 frames at ISO 400.

So should I keep shooting the rest of this film at ISO 400 and then push by 1 stop while developing it or at ISO 200.

 

[Sangoma]

So I made the classic noob error of not verifying what ISO the camera was set at. My understanding was that the Nikon F90x should detect the ISO of the film based on the DX coding and set it automatically, but for some reason it did not.

The film used is a Fujifilm 200 of which I have shot around 13 frames at ISO 400.

So should I keep shooting the rest of this film at ISO 400 and then push by 1 stop while developing it or at ISO 200.

I would continue at 400, unless it was essential that the remainder of the shots should be more correctly exposed.
It should be fine, and at least all the same, maybe a little more grain (I don't know the film)

 

[ashishtamhane]

I would continue at 400, unless it was essential that the remainder of the shots should be more correctly exposed.
It should be fine, and at least all the same, maybe a little more grain (I don't know the film)

No need to push by 1 stop in development?

The film is a Fujifilm Fujicolor CA135

 

[Sangoma]

No need to push by 1 stop in development?

The film is a Fujifilm Fujicolor CA135

Yes, but it would all be the same amount, not half and half, and that is what I think would give more grain.
When I said I don't know the film, I meant I don't know how that film is affected by pushing, some film you can hardly notice the difference and some get very grainy and or contrasty.

I haven't developed colour for a very long time, but my daughter will quite often expose 400 at 800 and tell the lab, the results are good

 

[FishyFish]

I would alter the ISO setting on the camera to shoot the remaining frames at ISO200. The ones you shot at iso400 will likely be ok (Kodak Gold is pretty versatile when it comes to getting the exposure wrong), but better to shoot at box speed or overexpose, than to underexpose IMO.

 

[zx9]

Agreed, a stop either way is not going to be the end of the world with an amateur colour negative film which was designed for use in cameras much less capable than the OP's Nikon. That said, correct or over exposure is preferable to under exposure so best to set the ISO to 200, make a note of which frame number you made the change and see if it is noticeable reviewing the negatives and scans / prints.