Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Yep, a duck and some air freshener. Not my car, I just took a snap whilst getting drenched
 
Has anyone upgraded from an E-M1 Mk2 to a Mk3? I haven't done much photography for the last 18 months or so (I plan to rectify that this autumn) and somehow the launch of the Mk3 passed me by. The upgrades appear relatively minor, but I mainly shoot landscape and the hand held high res sounds useful as does the built in ND mode. I like the idea of the autofocus joystick too. A pity the view finder resolution hasn't improved.

I'd be interested to hear if anyone has upgraded and whether they were pleased or disappointed with their choice.
 
Idlefrog said:
Has anyone upgraded from an E-M1 Mk2 to a Mk3? I haven't done much photography for the last 18 months or so (I plan to rectify that this autumn) and somehow the launch of the Mk3 passed me by. The upgrades appear relatively minor, but I mainly shoot landscape and the hand held high res sounds useful as does the built in ND mode. I like the idea of the autofocus joystick too. A pity the view finder resolution hasn't improved.

I'd be interested to hear if anyone has upgraded and whether they were pleased or disappointed with their choice.
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Built in ND looks a nice feature but whilst you can do handheld hi res is still requires your subject to be completely still.
 
Idlefrog said:
Has anyone upgraded from an E-M1 Mk2 to a Mk3? I haven't done much photography for the last 18 months or so (I plan to rectify that this autumn) and somehow the launch of the Mk3 passed me by. The upgrades appear relatively minor, but I mainly shoot landscape and the hand held high res sounds useful as does the built in ND mode. I like the idea of the autofocus joystick too. A pity the view finder resolution hasn't improved.

I'd be interested to hear if anyone has upgraded and whether they were pleased or disappointed with their choice.
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I had an E-M1 iii for a short while, but returned it and got a G9 to use alongside the E-M1 ii.
Not impressed enough to spend the extra money, might be worth it if you do a lot of wildlife photography.
Bit disappointed that the evf is not improved although the joystick is a good addition.
Save yourself a chunk of money and try the G9, very pleased that I did.
To be honest I only keep the Mkii for its dual is with the 12-100, not that sure it even makes much difference.
The G9 is a better all round camera especially with the recent firmware update that improved the focus capabilities
 
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I upgraded in the summer ,initial thoughts were the same as rich above ,but I stuck with it and spent around a month tweaking the settings , now I love it and it’s a faster ,better built model I.m.h.o .
I also tried the G9 and returned it after 2 weeks preferring the Olympus .. I use the mkiii with the oly 100-400 lens 90% of the time and it’s a stunning match ,doesn’t falter on AF even with the 1.4 tc fitted even on b.I.f on dull days
 
Just got myself an OM-D E-M10 Mk2 with kit lenses 14-42 and 40-150 from the good folks at Castle Cameras (great service!).
The manual and menus will keep me occupied on wet days and the camera itself will vie for attention with my Nikon 1 V3 for out and about photography.
I will no doubt be back here for hints and tips from time to time! :LOL:
 
snerkler said:
I've just been reading online and apparently peaking and focus zoom do work with manual and non electronic lenses but you have to manually enable it rather than it being automatic. TBH though with a lens like this I'd just use the range scale (assuming they're accurate)
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I use peaking with my Holga lens - if you can call it focusing - and on my bodycap fisheye - though it seldom needs much either - both are totally manual so nothing electronic.
I have it set up on a Fn button to quickly enable/disable - comes in handy on some marginal focus shots with the electronic lenses too.
 
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5.30 am start to ensure best spot at my local N/R where a mega rarity a squaco heron has turned up , a long way from Africa filled my boots with 500 shots by 9.am with people piling in sound move ,now to get some kip
sat-navs not working by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
5.30 am start to ensure best spot at my local N/R where a mega rarity a squaco heron has turned up , a long way from Africa filled my boots with 500 shots by 9.am with people piling in sound move ,now to get some kip.

Well worth the early start Jeff, two cracking shots love the intensity/concentration in the first image (y)
 
Just noticed an annoyance with my OM-10 Mk2 ... it imposes "OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA" on exif of every image that shows on upload to Flickr.
Other than manually removing it from Flickr is there any way to prevent this happening?
 
gramps said:
Just noticed an annoyance with my OM-10 Mk2 ... it imposes "OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA" on exif of every image that shows on upload to Flickr.
Other than manually removing it from Flickr is there any way to prevent this happening?
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Yeah just overwrite it . I,ll have a look how I do it next time I post one
 
gramps said:
Just noticed an annoyance with my OM-10 Mk2 ... it imposes "OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA" on exif of every image that shows on upload to Flickr.
Other than manually removing it from Flickr is there any way to prevent this happening?
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If you use Lightroom to import your images, just set it up in the import dialog to change it to a dot or something.
 
Stephen L said:
If you use Lightroom to import your images, just set it up in the import dialog to change it to a dot or something.
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Thanks Stephen, I don't use Lightroom I now use DXO Photolab 4 and Affinity. :)
 
I'm thinking about getting a longer lens to take some wildlife photos.
Mainly birds and small mammals so considering either an Olympus or Panasonic
100-400. I have a G9 and an E-M1 ii so compatibility isn't an issue.
What are peoples opinions on these two lenses please?
Did look at the Olympus 300, but its getting a bit pricey for only occasional use.
Thank you
 
tijuana taxi said:
I'm thinking about getting a longer lens to take some wildlife photos.
Mainly birds and small mammals so considering either an Olympus or Panasonic
100-400. I have a G9 and an E-M1 ii so compatibility isn't an issue.
What are peoples opinions on these two lenses please?
Did look at the Olympus 300, but its getting a bit pricey for only occasional use.
Thank you
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I had the Panny on me EM1-II and have only positive things to say, no issue with AF and IQ was very good. I haven't used the Olly.
 
snerkler said:
I had the Panny on me EM1-II and have only positive things to say, no issue with AF and IQ was very good. I haven't used the Olly.
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Thank you, I am leaning towards the Panasonic, its smaller, lighter and dual is on the G9.
 
tijuana taxi said:
I'm thinking about getting a longer lens to take some wildlife photos.
Mainly birds and small mammals so considering either an Olympus or Panasonic
100-400. I have a G9 and an E-M1 ii so compatibility isn't an issue.
What are peoples opinions on these two lenses please?
Did look at the Olympus 300, but its getting a bit pricey for only occasional use.
Thank you
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I’ve only used the Pan Leica 100-400mm as the new Oly 100-400 I ordered had to be returned as it was such a bad copy.
I’ve used 2 different Pan 100-400’s over the last 3 years and found them both to be be excellent.
The Panny is a faster lens, but you cannot use a converter with it, unlike the Oly.
I think both are very good lenses, arguments pro and against can be made for both - it will come down to personal preference in the end, particularly as you have both relevant bodies.
Having owned both bodies, my firm preference is for the G9 over the Oly, particularly with the update of the autofocus system.
 
Malfis said:
I’ve only used the Pan Leica 100-400mm as the new Oly 100-400 I ordered had to be returned as it was such a bad copy.
I’ve used 2 different Pan 100-400’s over the last 3 years and found them both to be be excellent.
The Panny is a faster lens, but you cannot use a converter with it, unlike the Oly.
I think both are very good lenses, arguments pro and against can be made for both - it will come down to personal preference in the end, particularly as you have both relevant bodies.
Having owned both bodies, my firm preference is for the G9 over the Oly, particularly with the update of the autofocus system.
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Thank you, reinforces my view about possibly getting the PL 100-400
I would be interested to hear views on the Olympus, their lenses are usually very good and really pleased with my 12-100.
Have a feeling that the lens stabilisation doesn't sync with the body, odd omission if true..
 
tijuana taxi said:
Thank you, reinforces my view about possibly getting the PL 100-400
I would be interested to hear views on the Olympus, their lenses are usually very good and really pleased with my 12-100.
Have a feeling that the lens stabilisation doesn't sync with the body, odd omission if true..
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No it doesn’t fully synch but you will have pitch and yaw ,it’s why they have included I.s on the lens .. having owned and used both lenses IMHO the Olympus is far superior on a Olympus body , it’s sharp wide open (mine is anyway) takes both t.c’s ,the tripod mount is removable , it’s cheaper … in the end the choice is yours . In every instance that people have moaned about there copy and I have followed it up with advice it’s turned out to be either camera menu errors or simple user error .. the main fault being users coming from other systems and pressing the shutter button to hard . Knocking the lens off target
 
the black fox said:
No it doesn’t fully synch but you will have pitch and yaw ,it’s why they have included I.s on the lens .. having owned and used both lenses IMHO the Olympus is far superior on a Olympus body , it’s sharp wide open (mine is anyway) takes both t.c’s ,the tripod mount is removable , it’s cheaper … in the end the choice is yours . In every instance that people have moaned about there copy and I have followed it up with advice it’s turned out to be either camera menu errors or simple user error .. the main fault being users coming from other systems and pressing the shutter button to hard . Knocking the lens off target
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All good points, guessed both lenses would have their champions and daresay image quality is similar.
Strange they didn't. bother with the sync like they did on the 12-100.
 
tijuana taxi said:
All good points, guessed both lenses would have their champions and daresay image quality is similar.
Strange they didn't. bother with the sync like they did on the 12-100.
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In all honesty it doesn’t need it ,having used many many long reach lenses from most brands over the years I can only say that this knocks the spots off all of them . If your worrying about what it has or hasn’t then your forgetting that it’s the end result that counts
 
the black fox said:
No it doesn’t fully synch but you will have pitch and yaw ,it’s why they have included I.s on the lens .. having owned and used both lenses IMHO the Olympus is far superior on a Olympus body , it’s sharp wide open (mine is anyway) takes both t.c’s ,the tripod mount is removable , it’s cheaper … in the end the choice is yours . In every instance that people have moaned about there copy and I have followed it up with advice it’s turned out to be either camera menu errors or simple user error .. the main fault being users coming from other systems and pressing the shutter button to hard . Knocking the lens off target
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In what way is the Olympus far superior? I know in terms of IQ most reviews I've seen/read say that there's very little difference. One interesting thing though was that the Panny does not appear to be a true 400mm, either that or the Olly is more than 400mm as several reviews showed examples that if you framed the Panny at 400mm you only needed the Olly at 342mm.
 
snerkler said:
In what way is the Olympus far superior? I know in terms of IQ most reviews I've seen/read say that there's very little difference. One interesting thing though was that the Panny does not appear to be a true 400mm, either that or the Olly is more than 400mm as several reviews showed examples that if you framed the Panny at 400mm you only needed the Olly at 342mm.
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The i.q is better , I owned the pana for 2 years and it did me proud , but having seen initial reports about the oly I was more than inquisitive about it ,when a order cancellation came up I went for it .. I had the lens bolted on the camera and tried out within ten minutes of purchase . The first b.I.f appeared a few minutes later and I instantly knew it was special ,focus speed ,lock on ability, general feel everything fell into place ..
I can’t comment on why others cannot get on with it and really can’t see any problems .. all I can think is you do need to be on top of your menu settings and know how to handle long lenses .. plus I realised that a lot of users are basing there camera birding set ups on American users recommendations which at best are confusing and at worst are totally wrong .. you only need two conflicting errors in set up to throw it all out of synch .
Myself and I know Andy rouse does the same do not use BBF it’s not needed and I think the cause of a lot of problems I.e your focussing with a 800+ mm lens if you use a t.c .. usually handheld . . And then depressing the shutter button this causes a slight deflection at the camera end but a major one at lens end .. whereas if you focus with the shutter button and gently apply pressure when target clicks in it’s bang on .I also try to employ just single point focus or if a clear sky cluster focus it’s the only ones needed
 
the black fox said:
The i.q is better , I owned the pana for 2 years and it did me proud , but having seen initial reports about the oly I was more than inquisitive about it ,when a order cancellation came up I went for it .. I had the lens bolted on the camera and tried out within ten minutes of purchase . The first b.I.f appeared a few minutes later and I instantly knew it was special ,focus speed ,lock on ability, general feel everything fell into place ..
I can’t comment on why others cannot get on with it and really can’t see any problems .. all I can think is you do need to be on top of your menu settings and know how to handle long lenses .. plus I realised that a lot of users are basing there camera birding set ups on American users recommendations which at best are confusing and at worst are totally wrong .. you only need two conflicting errors in set up to throw it all out of synch .
Myself and I know Andy rouse does the same do not use BBF it’s not needed and I think the cause of a lot of problems I.e your focussing with a 800+ mm lens if you use a t.c .. usually handheld . . And then depressing the shutter button this causes a slight deflection at the camera end but a major one at lens end .. whereas if you focus with the shutter button and gently apply pressure when target clicks in it’s bang on .I also try to employ just single point focus or if a clear sky cluster focus it’s the only ones needed
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Interesting, thanks. Is that just an Olly thing with BBF then as I’ve never had an issue with Sony and Nikon using BBF?
 
snerkler said:
Interesting, thanks. Is that just an Olly thing with BBF then as I’ve never had an issue with Sony and Nikon using BBF?
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Possibly as with a DSLR the camera lens combo would be tripod/ gimbal mounted ,not used my tri/gimbal in two + years all shots are hand held . Hence my comments above .with virtually everyone that has asked me for help with allegedly soft lensesI have told to check there focus point location on the rear camera screen 95% of the time it’s the problem ..
With using multi point focus as well the a.f point tends to jump around choosing the closest part of the bird ,so as I said single point is more accurate . Cluster focus also works well in a clear sky .
The way I have my EVF set up also might help as I keep it live so I can follow the bird across the screen with no blackouts and despite the fact that low burst is supposed to focus every shot I find that I get better keepers in high speed burst at 13fps
 
the black fox said:
Possibly as with a DSLR the camera lens combo would be tripod/ gimbal mounted ,not used my tri/gimbal in two + years all shots are hand held . Hence my comments above .with virtually everyone that has asked me for help with allegedly soft lensesI have told to check there focus point location on the rear camera screen 95% of the time it’s the problem ..
With using multi point focus as well the a.f point tends to jump around choosing the closest part of the bird ,so as I said single point is more accurate . Cluster focus also works well in a clear sky .
The way I have my EVF set up also might help as I keep it live so I can follow the bird across the screen with no blackouts and despite the fact that low burst is supposed to focus every shot I find that I get better keepers in high speed burst at 13fps
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Maybe it’s just what you’re used to then as I don’t use a tripod or monopod and have not experienced the AF point moving off the subject when pressing the shutter, but can see how it could be a problem if you’re a bit heavy handed with the shutter.

Which Olly body are you using, I didn’t realise they had blackout free shooting now?
 
the black fox said:
The i.q is better , I owned the pana for 2 years and it did me proud , but having seen initial reports about the oly I was more than inquisitive about it ,when a order cancellation came up I went for it .. I had the lens bolted on the camera and tried out within ten minutes of purchase . The first b.I.f appeared a few minutes later and I instantly knew it was special ,focus speed ,lock on ability, general feel everything fell into place ..
I can’t comment on why others cannot get on with it and really can’t see any problems .. all I can think is you do need to be on top of your menu settings and know how to handle long lenses .. plus I realised that a lot of users are basing there camera birding set ups on American users recommendations which at best are confusing and at worst are totally wrong .. you only need two conflicting errors in set up to throw it all out of synch .
Myself and I know Andy rouse does the same do not use BBF it’s not needed and I think the cause of a lot of problems I.e your focussing with a 800+ mm lens if you use a t.c .. usually handheld . . And then depressing the shutter button this causes a slight deflection at the camera end but a major one at lens end .. whereas if you focus with the shutter button and gently apply pressure when target clicks in it’s bang on .I also try to employ just single point focus or if a clear sky cluster focus it’s the only ones needed
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That’s really well put Jeff. Helpful advice
I have been photographing birds for only about 18 months due to changing habits because of lockdown rules and I bought the oly 100-400 about a year ago after reading a lot of this thread and your and Robin’s @RedRobin advice I have found to be invaluable. Still learning though.
The 100-400 suits me admirably.
When you say cluster focus do you use the 9 square , the 25 square or the 5 cross?
 
snerkler said:
Maybe it’s just what you’re used to then as I don’t use a tripod or monopod and have not experienced the AF point moving off the subject when pressing the shutter, but can see how it could be a problem if you’re a bit heavy handed with the shutter.

Which Olly body are you using, I didn’t realise they had blackout free shooting now?
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You can alter the OVF settings to keep the EVF live at all times . The one thing that bothered me when I first changed to Olympus was the screen blacking out for a split second and losing track of the bird . It doesnt now , this works on the 1-mk2 and mk3
 
U
superpippo said:
That’s really well put Jeff. Helpful advice
I have been photographing birds for only about 18 months due to changing habits because of lockdown rules and I bought the oly 100-400 about a year ago after reading a lot of this thread and your and Robin’s @RedRobin advice I have found to be invaluable. Still learning though.
The 100-400 suits me admirably.
When you say cluster focus do you use the 9 square , the 25 square or the 5 cross?
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cluster focus works with all squares engaged ,and sequential low switched on ,takes a bit of getting used to .. in theory it should only work on clean backgrounds with practice you can use it on slightly messy backgrounds to .it’s not as accurate as single point but does produce good results
 
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