For a long time I used the 12-40mm paired with an EM5-II, EM1 and EM1-II and was always happy with the results, although if I'm being brutally honest I do wish I'd taken FF to Venice and New York. Being able to carry the 40-150mm R and barely know you had it on you was also a godsend. I do wonder I'll invest back into m4/3 enough for it to become my travel system but for now I'm using the 16-35mm f4 or 24-105mm f4 on my Sony.
My daughter has an A7Riii and both of those lenses, she seems to like them.
yes no problems whatsoever warranties are carried out without a quibble if needed .. as for S/H values stuff sells at the right price. the u.k manuals are totally basic anyway ,most changes can be obtained online
i dont wanna dance ! by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
No issues with HDEW. As long as you’re happy buying grey they are a reputable company to buy from.
Good company and I believe ypu get a 3year warranty with them
sparkles by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
Ok, what are you intending to photograph and how close can you get to 'it'?
sands of the dee by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
all together now by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
Humm could be interested price dependant - why are you swapping ?
PANNING A PANNIER by Robin Procter, on Flickr
HEAVY-FREIGHT LOCO ON THE MOVE! by Robin Procter, on Flickr
I really like the first shot. I try to avoid small apertures, especially on m4/3 due to the diffraction. On m4/3 it starts to appear at around f8 so even with landscapes my desired aperture is f5.6. With panning I guess it's not as critical as you say, but generally when I'm panning I'm at a motorsport event so want as wide an aperture as possible to mask the fencing, but with something like this it's necessary. It then becomes a question of whether diffraction or using an ND filter degrades the image quality the most. For me good filters don't degrade it as much as diffraction. I always try to shoot at base ISO though.I have often heard said and seen written that is never a good idea to shoot with a lens at minimum aperture (its highest F/stop number) but following taking some panning shots I don't think I agree.
I have just returned from photographing steam trains (steam, surfing, and wildlife are my photographic passions) and decided to have a go at some handheld panning - I usually do so on a tripod with panning head. The hit rate when panning is always very low in spite of camera manufacturers hype about tracking etc.
As my camera settings on the images posted below show on Flickr, I shot at F/22 which is the minimum aperture on the Olympus 40-150mm Pro. I wanted to maintain my manually set ISO 400 and an adequately slow shutter speed for panning effect of 1/30s and consequently was forced to shut down the lens aperture as far as possible which is F/22 on that lens.
This first shot of a pannier tank loco on a passenger train had the benefit of plenty of time to plan it. The second shot of the heavy-freight loco was literally grabbed in a desperately wild fashion as it suddenly appeared from the cutting and was running away, not towards, me. I was chatting with a couple of other photographer friends as you do and we didn't hear her coasting through and she wasn't running according to the timetable we had. Also, I had not changed my camera settings which in hindsight I might easily have done following my previous shots because I have my basic panning settings allocated to the C3 mode dial. We have all forgotten to change from more extreme settings occasionally haven't we!
So, what are your thoughts about avoiding a lens' minimum F/stop? Mine are that in the context of panning and a motion blurred background, any undesirable edge aspects (aberrations?) are going to be masked anyway.
And no, I didn't take my big white Oly supertelephoto lens on this trip chasing trains.
Nice shots Robin, however I'm curious as to why you locked the ISO at 400 ? If you had shot at ISO 200 (or even ISO100 so long as you protect the highlights) then you could have been at F16 to even F11 ?
.... Thanks Toby.
I agree. TBH when I've had the luxury of not shooting through a fence I've often let the f number creep up when I've been too lazy to put my ND filter on and I can't say I've ever had a shot ruined by diffraction. I'm more critical with landscapes but for shots like these it's far more important to have good technique than it is to worry about whether diffraction is coming into play or not imo
.... Thanks Andrew.Nice shots Robin, however I'm curious as to why you locked the ISO at 400 ? If you had shot at ISO 200 (or even ISO100 so long as you protect the highlights) then you could have been at F16 to even F11 ?
I also agree that a good ND (or variable ND) is probably a good idea (although I'm yet to purchase one myself)
knot today thanks by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
.... Irrespective of sensor size, I think that each lens has its optimum aperture 'sweet spot' when mounted on a particular body.
All lenses of the same length have the same dof on any frame size. It's just with MFT you need half the lens length to get the same field of view, so your dof will seem greater for the same field of view.
All the above is true, but a quick a easy calculation is that for a given focal length (35mm eq) MFT will have 2 stops greater DOF. Therefore if you shoot at 24mm f11 on FF then 12mm (24mm eq) at f5.6 will give you roughly the same DOF. In terms of light gathering, ignoring t-stops then the aperture value with be the same in terms of light gathering for exposure purposes. Of course, the FF sensor will capture 4x more light as the sensor is 4 times bigger.
..... Jeeze! This may indeed be the science but as @the black fox Jeff says [I have highlit in bold] :
.... Olympus are quite deservedly famous for both their innovation and their optics, not that the other established major brands are not very good.
.... ^ ^ ^ This is what enjoying your photography is all about - In my opinion. Simply use the aperture that you like the result of.Lastly, surely it is a matter of "is the DoF pleasing" and if by closing down does that also please you ~ if yes in either case just use the aperture that you like rather than over analysing the matter of the "aperture equivalency argument"
Depends what you're referring to but it does matter, or should I say it does matter that you understand the differences so that you get the shot that you intended
.... Understanding the differences at such an intense level of detail has never got in the way of me getting the shot I intended. That's the beauty of shooting fully Manual-mode on a mirrorless WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get) camera and helped further by shooting on high quality zoom lenses.Depends what you're referring to but it does matter, or should I say it does matter that you understand the differences so that you get the shot that you intended
.... Same here Jeff - I agree. I might analyse my photo when post-processing but every shot has its own different multiplicity of circumstances and I'm not someone who overthinks anything.
