Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

I have put a wanted ad up so if anyone has an unwanted kit lens they have moved on from please let me know.

If I'd bitten the bullet and bought the 12-40 used, I'd have spent less money overall
I can certainly see the wisdom in that. It is what concerns me about the mid price kit lenses like the Oly 12-50 or Panasonic 12-60 (non leica) is that they cost a fair chunk of the pro spec lenses. The 14-42 R seems cheap enough to start with start with but may be less sellable later if I want to upgrade to a pro level lens.

I wonder how many photographers buy prime lenses and then find they don't use them much and go back to their zooms? I am tempted by the Panasonic 50mm and 40mm maybe in the future.
 
I am tempted by the Panasonic 50mm and 40mm maybe in the future.
Never heard of those lenses, are you using the FF equivalent focal lengths?

Panasonic 12-60 is considered quite a bargain, often come bundled as a kit and then sold on relatively cheaply.
With these variably aperture slower zoom lenses they are often used in conjunction with a fast prime when conditions require it.
 
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Never heard of those lenses, are you using the FF equivalent focal lengths?
:oops: :$ Sorry, yes I meant the 25mm and 20mm.
With these variably aperture slower zoom lenses they are often used in conjunction with a fast prime when conditions require it.
I have considered the same route myself but I can see AMcUK's argument to stump up for the higher spec wide aperture zoom at the beginning and probably not need the primes.
 
:oops: :$ Sorry, yes I meant the 25mm and 20mm.

I have considered the same route myself but I can see AMcUK's argument to stump up for the higher spec wide aperture zoom at the beginning and probably not need the primes.

I only use primes for macro and fun stuff like my lensbaby.
It depends on what you shoot.
I find the 8-25 f4 is fine for church interiors too myself.
 
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another shot of a dotterel and the rocks that have messed up my face .. slowly getting better ,new glasses hopefully should arrive mid week .. can wear my reading glasses for now ,leg still badly swollen though .wont be doing much for a while yet
bit of a eye opener by jeff cohen, on Flickr
 
another shot of a dotterel and the rocks that have messed up my face .. slowly getting better ,new glasses hopefully should arrive mid week .. can wear my reading glasses for now ,leg still badly swollen though .wont be doing much for a while yet
bit of a eye opener by jeff cohen, on Flickr
Lovely shot Jeff, hopefully you will be back to fighting fit soon, us older folk take a little longer to heal dont we.
 
and another dotterel shot , still not up to going out after anything new
the dot trot by jeff cohen, on Flickr
 
The 14-42 R seems cheap enough to start with start with but may be less sellable later if I want to upgrade to a pro level lens.
The 12-50 seems to be a bit more expensive than the last time I looked.
Not sure when it was last bundled with the M5?
The market for the kit zooms is a bit odd, I assume it is driven by people trading/upgrading or splitting from a dead body.
Not sure where you would move one on if you got bored with it.
Dealers always gave such low offers I kept mine as spare which is probably a waste.
Sorry, yes I meant the 25mm and 20mm.

People really love the Panasonic f1.7 20mm - I read the auto focus is very slow and its too close to the 17mm and 25mm to consider adding to my seldom used prime collection :)

I have the Panasonic f1.7 25mm. Its a bargain even new and very nice, I just seldom use it. I find the field of view is a little long for general walking around so I use the 17mm f1.8 Olympus.


You won't lose much selling the PRO line lenses if you buy them used, they turn over pretty quickly here or on e-group
If you have the money available of course and I only got mine as a bonus coincided with a cheap used one.

I wish I'd got mine when I first started looking at it - I would have better pictures from trips I won't be repeating but life is full of choices you could make :)
 
Bit of autumn colour lit by the sun in a woodland. taken with the OM-1 and m.100-400. This was on the tree but exposed for the bright sunlit leaves and to shadow out the messy background.

Forest Light by Ajophotog, on Flickr

Man these things are fast but the om-1 locked on :D

Kingfisher-3 by Ajophotog, on Flickr
That kingfisher with the 100-400 alby ? Very nice
 
I seem to have messed up somewhere with my settings on my M1 MKIII and was hoping someone might put me on the right track. The exposure on the LCD and EVF does not reflect the exposure on the taken shot. Even though the EVF is showing red warnings of over exposure the image is exactly the opposite very under exposed. I don't think the faults with the metering its just that I'm using the LCD to determine exposure and LCD is clearly telling fibs, even though the histogram on the LCD/EVF is showing all the way across to the right.

Anyone any suggestions. I don't want to reset the whole camera if I can help it as I've quite a few custom settings.
 
...waits for the "RTFM" post...
 
I seem to have messed up somewhere with my settings on my M1 MKIII and was hoping someone might put me on the right track. The exposure on the LCD and EVF does not reflect the exposure on the taken shot. Even though the EVF is showing red warnings of over exposure the image is exactly the opposite very under exposed. I don't think the faults with the metering its just that I'm using the LCD to determine exposure and LCD is clearly telling fibs, even though the histogram on the LCD/EVF is showing all the way across to the right.

Anyone any suggestions. I don't want to reset the whole camera if I can help it as I've quite a few custom settings.
It’s in the cog menu at the far end steve .forget what’s it’s called but think it’s OVF try switching that on and off
 
It’s in the cog menu at the far end steve .forget what’s it’s called but think it’s OVF try switching that on and off
Thanks Jeff but that's not helped. This is my problmem

Here you see the LCD showing overexposure and the histogram right over to the right.

IMG_0269 2.jpg

This is the actual shot, it's a lot darker than shown here I'm guessing the phone has lifted the exposure.

IMG_0270 2.jpg

or this one which shows a good exposure according to the histogram.

IMG_0271.jpg

But the resulting image looks like this. Again it's a lot darker than shown here.

IMG_0272.jpg
 
Hardly any wonder at + 3 stops of exp comp . , the bottom one seems better with only 0.3 dialled in . I have mine set at 0 for 99% of shots not sure what your problem is here ?
 
Check the Live View Boost settings in the menu Steve, make sure it is set to off so it doesn't boost the scene.
 
Hardly any wonder at + 3 stops of exp comp . , the bottom one seems better with only 0.3 dialled in . I have mine set at 0 for 99% of shots not sure what your problem is here ?
Surely the image taken should also be wildly over exposed, but it isn't?
 
None of the images are over exposed the one which appears to be is a photo of the live view. I’ve bumped up exposure comp to try and make the image brighter.
 
Perhaps I should explain the setup. I have camera on a tripod pointing to the bird feeder. The area around the feeder is always quite dark and needing fast shutter to try and capture the birds as they land on the feeder results in quite high ISO, higher than the max limit I’ve set. I dialled that much comp in to try and see if it made any difference. I realise now that it already at the max iso and raising the comp made no difference to the image but obviously only changed the evf. What I couldn’t understand was how the second image which seems to show an almost perfect histogram on the evf yet the image was very under exposed.
 
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I only have Panasonic cameras now, but I seem to recall there waa a setting on my E-M1 ii that changed how things looked in the evf/lcd.
Something like "view boost" basically it brightened things up, but wasn't actually what you would get.

Panasonic have what they call constant preview which lets you aee what you will take.
Perhaps your Olympus has something similar, I can't remember though, sorry
 
Perhaps I should explain the setup. I have camera on a tripod pointing to the bird feeder. The area around the feeder is always quite dark and needing fast shutter to try and capture the birds as they land on the feeder results in quite high ISO, higher than the max limit I’ve set. I dialled that much comp in to try and see if it made any difference. I realise now that it already at the max iso and raising the comp made no difference to the image but obviously only changed the evf. What I couldn’t understand was how the second image which seems to show an almost perfect histogram on the evf yet the image was very under exposed.
Interesting. Did you check that the Live View boost is off and you are not using the optical viewfinder? I wonder if the histogram represents the jpeg that it sees on the screen and not the data that will be recorded, and the boost is on?
 
another dotterel shot from 2 weeks ago . still housebound so nothing new for a while
the forager by jeff cohen, on Flickr
 
I only have Panasonic cameras now, but I seem to recall there waa a setting on my E-M1 ii that changed how things looked in the evf/lcd.
Something like "view boost" basically it brightened things up, but wasn't actually what you would get.

Panasonic have what they call constant preview which lets you aee what you will take.
Perhaps your Olympus has something similar, I can't remember though, sorry

Interesting. Did you check that the Live View boost is off and you are not using the optical viewfinder? I wonder if the histogram represents the jpeg that it sees on the screen and not the data that will be recorded, and the boost is on?
Thanks for the advice and live view boost is off, but I think I know what the problem is now. The photo is taken on one of my saved settings I have for stationary birds. Thats a SS of 800 S priority and auto iso, which is limited to 1600 . I think what's happened is the settings are at their max because it's such a dark area and there's no options to gather more light without lowering the SS or increasing the ISO. So increasing expcomp only effected the image on the LCD and not the final image as the settings had nowhere to go. That seems to me to be strange behaviour and worrying if you use the Histogram to ensure correct exposure, especially at the extremes.
 
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Thanks for the advice and live view boost is off, but I think I know what the problem is now. The photo is taken on one of my saved settings I have for stationary birds. Thats a SS of 800 S priority and auto iso, which is limited to 1600 . I think what's happened is the settings are at their max because it's such a dark area and there's no options to gather more light without lowering the SS or increasing the ISO. So increasing expcomp only effected the image on the LCD and not the final image as the settings had nowhere to go. That seems to me to be strange behaviour and worrying if you use the Histogram to ensure correct exposure, especially at the extremes.
Easily done steve .there complex cameras and it’s easy to forget the adjustments you have made at times .. been there ,T shirt etc LOL
 
Thanks for the advice and live view boost is off, but I think I know what the problem is now. The photo is taken on one of my saved settings I have for stationary birds. Thats a SS of 800 S priority and auto iso, which is limited to 1600 . I think what's happened is the settings are at their max because it's such a dark area and there's no options to gather more light without lowering the SS or increasing the ISO. So increasing expcomp only effected the image on the LCD and not the final image as the settings had nowhere to go. That seems to me to be strange behaviour and worrying if you use the Histogram to ensure correct exposure, especially at the extremes.
who would have thought getting a photo was so complicated Steve. ;)
 
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