Sad Clown in Chinatown

Very nice candid street style capture Garry, with some good colours.

"I'm guessing its one of your Hipstamatic type pic's, would it be with the Cinematic preset?"
 
Not exactly, George. I originally took it using a mono preset in Hipstamatic but liked the raw photo more, so I ran it through Snapseed for a couple of tweaks, then into Hipstamatic to use the Love 81 film from the Cinematic preset, but with a different lens - I forget which. Then into Affinity Photo 2 to apply a gradient lens blur. More work than I'd usually do, but I felt it was worth it.
 
Not exactly, George. I originally took it using a mono preset in Hipstamatic but liked the raw photo more, so I ran it through Snapseed for a couple of tweaks, then into Hipstamatic to use the Love 81 film from the Cinematic preset, but with a different lens - I forget which. Then into Affinity Photo 2 to apply a gradient lens blur. More work than I'd usually do, but I felt it was worth it.

That's very interesting Garry, seems quite a bit of work but the unique style certainly pays dividends. I didn't realise that one could use the Hipstamatic App for adding presets as well as a bit of PP.
 
That's very interesting Garry, seems quite a bit of work but the unique style certainly pays dividends. I didn't realise that one could use the Hipstamatic App for adding presets as well as a bit of PP.

Not only adding presets but adding a choice of lens, film, and flash separately. And editing the result. These two web pages give you a pretty full run-down on using Hipstamatic, including editing photos after you've taken them, whether you took them with the Hipstamatic app, another app, or even another camera. I think I've shared these before, but it's worth bookmarking them and then coming back to them from time to time to see what else is useful. One extra tip from me: photos shot with Halide and edited in Hipstamatic can give excellent results. All the clarity and sharpness of Halide with all the fun and quirkiness of Hipstamatic.


 
Not only adding presets but adding a choice of lens, film, and flash separately. And editing the result. These two web pages give you a pretty full run-down on using Hipstamatic, including editing photos after you've taken them, whether you took them with the Hipstamatic app, another app, or even another camera. I think I've shared these before, but it's worth bookmarking them and then coming back to them from time to time to see what else is useful. One extra tip from me: photos shot with Halide and edited in Hipstamatic can give excellent results. All the clarity and sharpness of Halide with all the fun and quirkiness of Hipstamatic.



Many thanks for that Garry, that's very helpful. I shall have a good look at it all later when I get back and have more time. Especially as I'm using my "iPhone" a whole bunch more these days and occasionally get to use use my wife's "iPhone 14 Pro Max", I've decided to hang on until the 15 series is released later this year.

"Incidentally how are you getting on with the "Halide" app and in your opinion is it better than "ProCamera"? A lot of my street snapping is done with the standard iPhone app solely for the facial tracking, but my normal app for everything else is still with "ProCamera"
 
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"Incidentally how are you getting on with the "Halide" app and in your opinion is it better than "ProCamera"?

I haven't used it very much yet. Just after I paid out all that money, I had a look at the app and wondered if I'd made the right decision. It seemed to be short a few features compared to ProCamera.

But after looking at a couple of the HEICs it produced, I realised that it doesn't pass the image data through Apple's processing engine - you know, the one that makes iPhone jpegs flat and a little cartoony. It just grabs a high res image from the sensor.

It also takes ProRaw and has an extra setting to get even better jpegs called, strangely, RAW+ Coverage. About that, it says in the settings, "Coverage can get the best possible shots, but takes longer to take two photos. This makes capturing images slower, but JPG images significantly higher quality. This setting has no effect when shooting ProRAW."

Anyway, I'm impressed with the quality of images I've got so far, I just need to get more. I don't know whether I can recommend it to others. Depends on whether you're prepared to lose a few features and pay a lot of money (around £50, I think) for something that just gives you excellent photos with no bells and whistles.

Oh, one other thing: it not only allows you to choose between the 0.5x, 1.0x, and 3.0x lenses, it has its own depth-aware mode similar to Apple's Portrait mode. I haven't played with this much.
 
I haven't used it very much yet. Just after I paid out all that money, I had a look at the app and wondered if I'd made the right decision. It seemed to be short a few features compared to ProCamera.

But after looking at a couple of the HEICs it produced, I realised that it doesn't pass the image data through Apple's processing engine - you know, the one that makes iPhone jpegs flat and a little cartoony. It just grabs a high res image from the sensor.

It also takes ProRaw and has an extra setting to get even better jpegs called, strangely, RAW+ Coverage. About that, it says in the settings, "Coverage can get the best possible shots, but takes longer to take two photos. This makes capturing images slower, but JPG images significantly higher quality. This setting has no effect when shooting ProRAW."

Anyway, I'm impressed with the quality of images I've got so far, I just need to get more. I don't know whether I can recommend it to others. Depends on whether you're prepared to lose a few features and pay a lot of money (around £50, I think) for something that just gives you excellent photos with no bells and whistles.

Oh, one other thing: it not only allows you to choose between the 0.5x, 1.0x, and 3.0x lenses, it has its own depth-aware mode similar to Apple's Portrait mode. I haven't played with this much.

Thanks for that Garry, I've had several looks at it and still not decided if it would be good for me. The jpeg thing probably would be of little use to me as apart from the Hiptamatic App I've never ever snapped a jpeg on anything. I just snap in ProRaw for everything, but that depth-aware mode sounds interesting but once again it probably only works with a jpeg file.

I've been having a look at the two links you posted about all the things that can be done with the "Hipstamatic App" I had no idea it was so complex particularly with the Pro settings etc, so I'll certainly be out & about playing with some settings during the next few days. I can only thank you once again for those links they are teally helpful. (y)
 
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