squirrel focus test.

Russdaz1

Russdaz1

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Name
Darren Russell
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Got hold of a second hand 1dsmk3 so quickly set up the autofocus and went to see what it could do.

Heavy shade. focus looks ok to me.

IMG_9610 by Darren Russell, on Flickr

opinions
 
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Sorry Looks pretty ok to me
 
Quite impressed with the 1ds mk3 tbh, seems to handle noise quite well, and tracks well, maybe takes a tad longer to gain focus for things like birds in flight compared to the 1dx, but no slower then the 1d mk2 was that it’s replaced.
 
Its very noisy and a tad under exposed for me - I adjusted just the exposure to suit and the noise is clearly evident

did you shoot with a high ISO?

original
enaPgN4.jpg


Edit
rs5LAZj.jpg





Les :)
 
I think the focus is ok but I'm unsure if it's sharp Daz the noise makes it tricky to asimilate from what I can see. I used to shoot with a 1Div I think you are going have to master ETTR to really see the best from this body in conditions of less light. The fine fur detail seems compromised to me mate by the noise Suiggle also seems very blue something I also noted with my older body in low light unprocessed RAW's

I think Lez is steering you in the right direction mate. you needed a better EXP mind it would be cool to know what the techs are mo blur might be present plus there is the ISO side of things. The trouble is noise is sharp so it effects what one can do with sharpness in post , also the files from older one series bodies are definitely not as maliable as the modern body's. So that "ETTR" EXP is crucial to you having the best file poss to work with

Daz I do struggle a bit with sharps especially when looking at images here on a forum,I've stared at this like I would me own,I wouldn't not show an image like this as this size just feel you can milk for from the new backup than you have here I presume active FP on the eye?? ok spotted techs on flicky it's only iso 800 so file must be under exposed??

stu
 
It’s very under exposed tbh, was heavy shade but I got used to used to auto iso with my 1dx mk2, didn’t get a chance to get a second shot with higher iso.

Tbh these body is more aimed for portraits which I where I am moving into so will be able to better get the exposure right
 
Thanks to all the fed back.

Went back out today after checking and investigating some things (iso shift) about the 1dsmk3 managed to a few like this much better exposure in the dark poring with rain light conditions.

1DS_9941 by Darren Russell, on Flickr

j-peg all editing in camera other then a tighter crop. Trying to get as much done in camera due to shoot that might happen based on unedited j-pegs.

Opinions?
 
Lez325 said:
Its very noisy and a tad under exposed for me - I adjusted just the exposure to suit and the noise is clearly evident

did you shoot with a high ISO?

original
enaPgN4.jpg


Edit
rs5LAZj.jpg





Les :)
Click to expand...

Agree Les but didn't you think it was a tad blue!

They aren't called Grey squirrels for nowt ya know ;):LOL:

48770297012_6ca7cce010_h 1.jpg
 
I see what you mean about the blue, but I think from the 2 screens I have seen it from the original reproduced the colours as where, there really wasn't much light to play with, same again today. Just had a play with white balance myself.

48770097781_b55d0e4fdb_o by Darren Russell, on Flickr

Makes it look brighter when in reality it was hard to see it sitting there. But I am pretty happy after today that the focus is good, but the 1Ds mk3 can't compete ISO and dark scenes without support. The 1Dx was at ISO 10,000 earlier at the same spot, same noise levels.
 
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This last version is alot better than the first now it doesn't have that blue tinge to it, perhaps the change of white balance did the trick
 
Phil-D said:
Agree Les but didn't you think it was a tad blue!

They aren't called Grey squirrels for nowt ya know ;):LOL:

View attachment 255823
Click to expand...

I just upped the exposure to demonstrate the noise- I never offered a full edit now did I ??? :LOL::LOL::LOL: and lets be honest Phil, it was a bit blue to start with :)

Les
 
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Russdaz1 said:
Thanks to all the fed back.

Went back out today after checking and investigating some things (iso shift) about the 1dsmk3 managed to a few like this much better exposure in the dark poring with rain light conditions.

1DS_9941 by Darren Russell, on Flickr

j-peg all editing in camera other then a tighter crop. Trying to get as much done in camera due to shoot that might happen based on unedited j-pegs.

Opinions?
Click to expand...

Maybe shoot in RAW - you'll have more control when it comes to editing :)

Les
 
Lez325 said:
Maybe shoot in RAW - you'll have more control when it comes to editing :)

Les
Click to expand...

I do for most things tbh, but there’s a company asking me to do some stuff for them but they need jpegs to sell them images on the spot so, no time for editing, so was really just trying to see what the camera can do, and it’s limitations are.
 
Then if that's the case - I personally would just shoot jpeg and put my camera into manual mode to keep control of exposure etc and a good prime lens

Les :)
 
Lez325 said:
I just upped the exposure to demonstrate the noise- I never offered a full edit now did I ??? :LOL::LOL::LOL: and lets be honest Phil, it was a bit blue to start with :)

Les
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Definitely and more than a bit! TBH Les, my post was a little tongue in cheek ;)

I know the OP was about focus but opinions had been ask for, I was surprised no-one had mentioned the blue cast.

Russdaz1 said:
I see what you mean about the blue, but I think from the 2 screens I have seen it from the original reproduced the colours as where, there really wasn't much light to play with, same again today. Just had a play with white balance myself.
Click to expand...

So the Grey squirrel really was blue!

Just out of interest, adjusting white balance has made it too warm. All I did was reduce the blue channel, nothing more as you said it was in shade/poor light :)
 
Phil-D said:
Definitely and more than a bit! TBH Les, my post was a little tongue in cheek ;)

I know the OP was about focus but opinions had been ask for, I was surprised no-one had mentioned the blue cast.



So the Grey squirrel really was blue!

Just out of interest, adjusting white balance has made it too warm. All I did was reduce the blue channel, nothing more as you said it was in shade/poor light :)
Click to expand...


I appreciate all the comments especially the blue bit. Tbh post processing is something I need to learn more other then cropping and minor levels changes every thing I post is how it was taken.

Will google about blue channel alterations later something to learn.

But yes there was a hint of blue/grey in the animal in the real scene, I think by the way it was lit up, in that area there normally more red in them.

Does the the duck have the same blue tint according to your computer by any chance?

Tbh It was probably a bit to dark to get decent shots, but sport events you have to make do, and it will play back up to sports events as well as portraits.
 
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Phil-D said:
Definitely and more than a bit! TBH Les, my post was a little tongue in cheek ;)

I know the OP was about focus but opinions had been ask for, I was surprised no-one had mentioned the blue cast.



So the Grey squirrel really was blue!

Just out of interest, adjusting white balance has made it too warm. All I did was reduce the blue channel, nothing more as you said it was in shade/poor light :)
Click to expand...


:pNobody did mention the blue... he was just invisible as always and using words like suiggle so got ignored:LOL::LOL:............. First thing I noticed Phil, I saw something very similar with my 1Div and images where I was scratching for light . Canon have improved something with the later sensors Phil the low light/ heavy shade RAW's SOOC are very different with the new sensors ie dx and dxii. Ya know how canon's daylight WB often renders things a bit too warm ( I know ya shoot nikon mate but I'd guess you are aware),it seems to me there was something similar going on in the older body's with blue when pushed hard in low light.:)


Daz did you understand what I meant by ETTR???
 
Stuart Philpott said:
:pNobody did mention the blue... he was just invisible as always and using words like suiggle so got ignored:LOL::LOL:............. First thing I noticed Phil, I saw something very similar with my 1Div and images where I was scratching for light . Canon have improved something with the later sensors Phil the low light/ heavy shade RAW's SOOC are very different with the new sensors ie dx and dxii. Ya know how canon's daylight WB often renders things a bit too warm ( I know ya shoot nikon mate but I'd guess you are aware),it seems to me there was something similar going on in the older body's with blue when pushed hard in low light.:)


Daz did you understand what I meant by ETTR???
Click to expand...

Had to google Ettr to make sure I was thinking of the right thing.

Basically using getting the exposure right at lowest iso settings possible?

I was wondering if the blue is the camera or lens, FoCal report mentions blue focus is one stop lower then the other two.

But it’s fair to say I was interested in seeing what it did at high iso for those dark sports events I go to. But I do try to limit iso. But the shutter speed equal to your focal length has to go out the window which is the real surprising part about the combo. I was getting in focus sharp images a 1/50th hand held yesterday. But was still dark due to availability of no light lol.
 
So some more googling Exposing to the right, and it’s a tip I do for motorsports, then I pull the blacks back. Helps with dealing with fences.
 
Buddy be aware I'm not the best at post processing i'm just trying to give a bit back. Folks here and elsewhere have gone out of their way to help me and push me forwards, So it natural for me to want to try and pass a bit forwards,I just want you to understand I'm possibly not the best man for the job,

ETTR expose to the right........ when we boost a signal.or part of a signal we boost noise,it's physicis bro, law............ call it what you like .It is cold hard fact.

So we expose to the right pushing the exposure into the realms of over exposure,WITHOUT CLIPPING THE HILIGHTS , to give ourselves the best possible RAW file to work upon . This will manifest it's self as the data in your histogramme being pushed over towards the right hand side,ie towards the brights...hence ETTR

The exposure being on the bright side means we won't hopefully need any part of our image boosting. So when we process we won't have to boost the shadows and naturally boost the noise within those shadows. Daz by using ETTR you get the highest quality file with as little noise as poss. Basically you are getting the highest possible signal to noise ratio

Mate as above I have had some incredibly gifted image makers help me along,they have taught me to push my iso to keep my SS up. The ethos is to get the sharpest image possible and worry on the noise reduction afterwards If the image isn't sharp we are scuppered anyway

The more you push ISO the more you will need to nail that exp. Our modern sensors like in our 1dxii's are much more forgiving of under exposure.But the older cameras like my 1div your 1diii are not so flexible. Buddy I have been taught a certain way,push ISO for SS, so I don't think of ISO 800 as being high. I can get a half decent frame from ISO 6400 with the older camera. Look you judge this frame is ISO 5000

_70F1597 by Stuart Philpott, on Flickr

This one is with the 1dxii and a bit bonkers ISO wise at 16000 no not one thousand six hundred.............it is sixteen thousand

_S2I8821GSW 1sm by Stuart Philpott, on Flickr

Buddy I'm not saying they are great images just trying to make you aware of a method of squeezing as much as possible out of our wonderful brit light and give you an idea of what is possible with a couple of examples.

What you want to do is set the hilight alert on the camera so when you look at the image you have just taken and it's histogramme you can adjust the EXP to get it as near as possible to the RHS. Having the hilight alert ie the blinkies means you can see very quickly if anything is blowing out. If you see just a tiny amount of blinkies flashing and you are shooting in RAW you will probably be on the money EXP and ETTR wise and will still be able to recover those blinkies in post processing . So basically try and nab a few test frames and have a good chimp adjust exp check again and you should be good.

Buddy I don't honestly know on the blue maybe someone else can pin point this for you. I'd also welcome anyone more advanced than me ripping up what I've told you if it is in any way incorrect. This stuff is really important Darren . Many folks don't really understand ETTR which is why I've laboured this a bit . It's basic but so useful especially if you shoot in places where the light is not ideal

I only shoot wildlife Daz and am not terribly confident about my abilities in that genre. We have some fantastic sports togs here much better equipped to help you than me

hope this helps mate

stu
 
unedited jpeg from today.

Hows this for blue and focus and anything else :) iso maxed @1600.
_DS_0167 by Darren Russell, on Flickr

Was looking at the rgb histogram and the blue is significantly different. but I think is common to the lens as I have noticed the same on the 1dx mk2 as well.
 
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I kind of get what Stu is saying , but when I think about it , I am thinking wont increasing the iso to increase the shutter speed so you can expose to the right , increase noise ? But looking at his samples above , it would be hard to believe he took those at those iso settings , most impressive , think I will try it . As for your Pigeon pic , it looks quite good , but the green background is to warm and yellow for my taste , and the whites on the neck look burnt out . Nice and sharp though with lots of feather detail . Like Stu , I am no expert either though .
 
It's a juggling act Mark if you get the EXP right you should have as little noise as possible in a given situation. The higher SS should give us a better chance of a sharp image. IE If one has motion blur in the wrong place on our subject or camera shake at the other end we can't save that frame. One can enhance sharps but one can't make a soft image sharp. But we can work on noise and reducing it,first by ETTR and second in post processing. The method is sound Mark based on sound logic,but yeah I get you it does sort of sound counter intuitive at times. I wish I had the skills to explain it better. It has been passed on to me by some guys that make my jaw drop at times,so talented. Do try it Mark it's worth me coming back on this for both of you . It's a way of getting that bit more of a chance of a sharp shot when conditions aren't ideal and also the best file quality to work from in post.

Daz agree with Mark highs look blown on the neck detail looks great, greens yellows a bit warm I'd have pulled pige to the right hand side a bit,mate or if possible tried to go left myself the strong green OOF veggie grabs me a bit
 
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