Urgent help please

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McNyat

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Name
Ciaran
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I have just been asked to take a few photos at a local function this evening, being held indoors. It wont be dark, but will probably need on camera flash. I have just recently purchased a Godox V1 flash unit but havent really got a chance to get used to it yet. Using the R6, with a 20-70f4. Worried about led lights giving banding on pics - should I turn on anti flicker ok? Is it best us use electronic fist curtain shutter? What is the best and easiest method of using ettl metering? Can I still use this if bouncing flash off ceiling?
Sorry for so may random questions folks, and any other pointers would be great too, thanks
 
I'm not a Canon user, so the following is general advice rather than specific to your camera.
To avoid the risk of banding use fully mechanical shutter (Electronic first may be OK, not 100% sure, but fully electronic is where you are most likely to see banding from LED's).
You should be able to use ETTL with bounce flash - but be aware that ETTL requires the flash to fire twice (the first one is at low power, and is used by the camera to calculate the power needed for the 'real' flash), so you have to allow for a little extra time between shots (and a slight lag between pressing the shutter and the actual shot).

As with any situation where you are unsure of the lighting, if you can get to the venue early and try a few test shots before most people are there you'll be much better prepared when you need to take the actual shots - You may also want to do a test shot without flash, letting the ISO rise, to see how high it would need.
I was pleasantly surprised with my Sony A7iv when I discovered that it could handle shooting without flash in some situations where my older DSLR did need flash.
 
Faldrax said:
I'm not a Canon user, so the following is general advice rather than specific to your camera.
To avoid the risk of banding use fully mechanical shutter (Electronic first may be OK, not 100% sure, but fully electronic is where you are most likely to see banding from LED's).
You should be able to use ETTL with bounce flash - but be aware that ETTL requires the flash to fire twice (the first one is at low power, and is used by the camera to calculate the power needed for the 'real' flash), so you have to allow for a little extra time between shots (and a slight lag between pressing the shutter and the actual shot).

As with any situation where you are unsure of the lighting, if you can get to the venue early and try a few test shots before most people are there you'll be much better prepared when you need to take the actual shots - You may also want to do a test shot without flash, letting the ISO rise, to see how high it would need.
I was pleasantly surprised with my Sony A7iv when I discovered that it could handle shooting without flash in some situations where my older DSLR did need flash.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this reply. Its good to know that about the mechanical shutter. Is the ettl flash likely to make people blink maybe?
I am hoping to get into the venue slightly early as suggested and also hoping that flash might not be needed... fingers crossed.
 
LED lights may give light that looks strongly orange to the camera. So beware if subjects are close to LED sources. If you are overpowering the LEDs with the flash, then no problem. Use EFCS or mechanical. The R6 might not work with flash in electronic mode.
 
McNyat said:
Thanks for this reply. Its good to know that about the mechanical shutter. Is the ettl flash likely to make people blink maybe?
I am hoping to get into the venue slightly early as suggested and also hoping that flash might not be needed... fingers crossed.
Click to expand...
There's always risk, but the pre-flash is low power, and if bounced, you are probably OK.
 
McNyat said:
Thanks for this reply. Its good to know that about the mechanical shutter. Is the ettl flash likely to make people blink maybe?
I am hoping to get into the venue slightly early as suggested and also hoping that flash might not be needed... fingers crossed.
Click to expand...
Even if people notice the very low-powered ETTL pre- flash, they would need superb reactions to blink, given that the speed of light is 299,792,458 m / s. Call the distance 10m, 5 m from flash to subject and another 5 m back again, so anyone who could react in 1/29,979,246th of a second could be the best boxer, fighter pilot or formulae 1 driver in the world:)
 
Garry Edwards said:
Even if people notice the very low-powered ETTL pre- flash, they would need superb reactions to blink, given that the speed of light is 299,792,458 m / s. Call the distance 10m, 5 m from flash to subject and another 5 m back again, so anyone who could react in 1/29,979,246th of a second could be the best boxer, fighter pilot or formulae 1 driver in the world:)
Click to expand...
The time between pre-flash and actual flash will be a bit longer, as the camera needs to make the relevant scene analysis and power calculations after firing the test pulse (and that takes a lot longer than the light to bounce and return, but is still pretty fast).
A blink in response to a flash of light is also an involuntary action, so different (faster) to the reactions of a 'trained' voluntary action*.

*Clearly there are exceptions, as nothing is faster than Hong Kong Phooey, except perhaps RoadRunner or Speedy Gonzales :LOL:
(Cartoons were so much simpler and just plain fun when we were younger!)
 
Faldrax said:
The time between pre-flash and actual flash will be a bit longer, as the camera needs to make the relevant scene analysis and power calculations after firing the test pulse (and that takes a lot longer than the light to bounce and return, but is still pretty fast).
A blink in response to a flash of light is also an involuntary action, so different (faster) to the reactions of a 'trained' voluntary action*.

*Clearly there are exceptions, as nothing is faster than Hong Kong Phooey, except perhaps RoadRunner or Speedy Gonzales :LOL:
(Cartoons were so much simpler and just plain fun when we were younger!)
Click to expand...
You're right, but those camera calculations are also carried out at the speed of light:)
 
Thanks guys.... just an update that Ive been meaning to post up following the event. I decided on the 24-70 f4 on my r6 without flash (as pre event I felt that it should be fine) and kept the r7 and 70-200 f2.8 in the bag as I didnt want to walking about with 2 cameras (felt a bit shy having people look at me tbh). Started ok and then got worried about iq as the subjects were fairly far away and wished I had put the 70-200 lens on. Kranked the iso waaay up and hoped for the best. On reviewing some of the shots, I felt that the flash would really help so I nipped out to get it. Didnt worry about the longer lens as by that stage I was able to get fairly close for the 24-70 to be suitable. Massive difference made by the flash, but was then worried about the earlier shots with no flash. When I got them onto the computer and worked them through Lightroom and especially the de-noise function I was pleasantly surprised and ended up with plenty of great shots that everyone was happy with.
Learning from the event..... Keep all gear close by for any changes I might need, and dont be worried about using 2 cameras with different lenses to enable getting the best shots (know this is obvious, but as stated above I felt a a little shy and under pressure, feeling eyes in the back of my head). Looking back on it, it was best to just forget about this and just focus on the task in hand. Much better off having done it and will be bit wiser for the next one (which is on saturday btw) Fingers crossed....
 
(Light travels at 300-million-meters-a-second, the same speed as radio waves !)
 
If your using 2 cameras check out Holdfasts Moneymaker harness. Not cheap but stunning quality. It makes carrying 2 cameras a lot easier IMHO.
I was a bit shy when I first started way back in the mists of time.... Now , well nobody would call me shy now...., it's just something you get used to.
 
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