The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

snerkler said:
Numpty question of th day, is there any harm is leaving your camera on for extended periods doing nothing? We've just bought a new bird feeder and I thought I could leave my camera set up on a tripod and use the Sony Imaging Edge app to take the photos, this could mean the camera being sat there for over an hour doing nothing.

Oh and whilst talking of being a numpty, on my last two outings I've managed to lose my peak design slide, and my Firecrest 77mm ND filter :headbang:
Click to expand...
I can't see it being an issue unless the sun shines through the lens. If I ever build an office in teh garden I will probably do the same. I lost a lens cap on Sunday. An old Nikon one will do the trick while I buy a knock off Sony one
 
wookie6262 said:
I can't see it being an issue unless the sun shines through the lens. If I ever build an office in teh garden I will probably do the same. I lost a lens cap on Sunday. An old Nikon one will do the trick while I buy a knock off Sony one
Click to expand...
Thanks
 
As I’m looking to replace my ND filter that I lost I’ve stumbled across variable ones. I’ve always given them a wide berth in the past but I was surprised to see some of the more expensive ones get 4.6/5 with over 1000 reviews.

Are they genuinely good enough these days or will they degrade IQ more than a standard ND?
 
snerkler said:
As I’m looking to replace my ND filter that I lost I’ve stumbled across variable ones. I’ve always given them a wide berth in the past but I was surprised to see some of the more expensive ones get 4.6/5 with over 1000 reviews.

Are they genuinely good enough these days or will they degrade IQ more than a standard ND?
Click to expand...
I’ve a K&F variable Toby. Never noticed any colour shift. Used it quite a bit with 35&50 GM wide open.
 
snerkler said:
As I’m looking to replace my ND filter that I lost I’ve stumbled across variable ones. I’ve always given them a wide berth in the past but I was surprised to see some of the more expensive ones get 4.6/5 with over 1000 reviews.

Are they genuinely good enough these days or will they degrade IQ more than a standard ND?
Click to expand...
I got an Urth ND 100mm filter and was really impressed. Miles better than a big stopper
 
snerkler said:
Numpty question of th day, is there any harm is leaving your camera on for extended periods doing nothing? We've just bought a new bird feeder and I thought I could leave my camera set up on a tripod and use the Sony Imaging Edge app to take the photos, this could mean the camera being sat there for over an hour doing nothing.

Oh and whilst talking of being a numpty, on my last two outings I've managed to lose my peak design slide, and my Firecrest 77mm ND filter :headbang:
Click to expand...
I can't see it being an issue. I've run cameras for 10-12 hours in timelapse mode and recorded video for three to four hours without issue, in your case the fact the camera will be mostly idling means I wouldn't expect it to do any harm. I'm sure I've had cameras on for an hour or more when walking about taking shots which you may have done as well. I'd be concerned about causing harm if you were doing something that would be pushing the camera hard for an hour continuously like sustained high speed bursts. With the 1in stacked sensors I was always a bit iffy about doing sustained high framerate shooting with them because they'd get extremely hot and the battery would deplete alarmingly quickly.

On a different note, I bought the Thinktank Rotation 360 backpack that was recommended here at Christmas time which I've not been able to use for cycling but I've been taking it out walks instead of my usual Slingshot bag and very taken with it. The two decent shoulder straps along with a chest and decent waist strap means it holds the weight well and the mechanism to slide the camera out and back is very slick. Another aspect I like is if I swing it round and take the camera out, I can comfortably walk with the bag sitting open and the lens cap in it or similar whereas on the slingshot when the bag is rotated round, since all the weight is to the front it's not great walking with it but it's also a bit of an annoyance to zip it up, rotate it and clip it back in.

So in short, I appreciate the recommendation for the bag.
 
Last edited:
snerkler said:
As I’m looking to replace my ND filter that I lost I’ve stumbled across variable ones. I’ve always given them a wide berth in the past but I was surprised to see some of the more expensive ones get 4.6/5 with over 1000 reviews.

Are they genuinely good enough these days or will they degrade IQ more than a standard ND?
Click to expand...

I use one of these
hyfilters.net

H&Y REVORING with Polariser and VND Variable Step Adapter

Revoring with polariser and VND offers the maximum flexibility and convenience for photographer and videographers with their creations.
hyfilters.net hyfilters.net

and someone on ebay selling a used one for £60 which is a nice deal I think:
www.ebay.co.uk

H&Y RevoRing 67mm - 82mm VND ND3-ND1000 and Circular Polariser Filter | eBay

This filter combines neutral density (ND3 - ND1000) with a polariser. The adjustable thread allows the filter to fit lenses from 67mm - 82mm.
www.ebay.co.uk

As you know I normally don't pre-order. But I pre-ordered this on their kickstarter project, and fairly pleased with the results.
I also have separate 3-6-10-13 stops ND filters too but sometimes its just a lot better to have a single solution, especially while travelling.
 
Still getting to grips with my 1st proper Sony (A6700) and loving it so far. Quick question please When shooting videos, there's always a separate file that is stored alongside each video. What Are these for please is it for Gyro Stabilization data for Catalyst Browse, or for some other reason ?

Do I need to copy these sidecar files along with the videos when brining the videos into the PC and storing them on my NAS, or can they be safely deleted ?
 
Thought I might as well post some of my first images from the A6700 - nothing stunning, but still getting a feel for the camera and it's controls:





 
Last edited:
snerkler said:
As I’m looking to replace my ND filter that I lost I’ve stumbled across variable ones. I’ve always given them a wide berth in the past but I was surprised to see some of the more expensive ones get 4.6/5 with over 1000 reviews.

Are they genuinely good enough these days or will they degrade IQ more than a standard ND?
Click to expand...
Variable N.D’s are for video not photo
 
I think I am probably gonna buy a 35mm for my A7CII kit.

We already have the Sony 35 G.M and the Sony 35mm f/1.8.

Will need to be small and light weight, with a.f, and am probably ruling out any f/2.8 lenses.

So that leaves:

Samyang 35mm f/1.8
Sigma 35mm f/2 DG DN
Viltrox 35mm f/1.8

Are there any other options other than these?
 
f/2.8 said:
Have no idea I don’t shoot video.

For photo though variables are best avoided as image quality sucks.
Click to expand...
That's why I was asking, apparently some of them don't suck for photo and you don't get the dreaded 'X' at the extreme ends of the filter. I don't think @trevorbray or @nandbytes shoot video?
 
trevorbray said:
I’ve a K&F variable Toby. Never noticed any colour shift. Used it quite a bit with 35&50 GM wide open.
Click to expand...
I've been looking at the K&F and some reviews are saying that the front of the filter is wider than the rear meaning that you can't attach a lens hood, have you run into this issue?
 
A7 and TTartisan 50mm f2.

It was dull this morning with just dead light but I took pictures anyway.

DSC05572.jpg

100% from that one.

DSC05572-C.jpg

This is a tiny lens and it's Sony mount so no adapter is needed. I think its biggest issues are massive vignetting at wider apertures when focused at longer distances and poor corners at all apertures. I've read that the lens only just covers a FF chip so that explains the vignetting. Oh, and it also suffers badly from flare. Positives are that it's tiny and sharp enough in the central area and there seems to be quite a bit of contrast.

Against some older film era lenses it does have some advantages, the size on a mirrorless camera because it doesn't need an adapter and maybe sharpness at wider apertures and possibly bokeh too. It's only £79 :D
 
Last edited:
snerkler said:
That's why I was asking, apparently some of them don't suck for photo and you don't get the dreaded 'X' at the extreme ends of the filter. I don't think @trevorbray or @nandbytes shoot video?
Click to expand...

you will get the dreaded "X" with almost all variable NDs its a matter of "finding" it.
if you shoot a 10mm lens on FF at f11 with variable ND turned to 10+stops, you will come across is very quickly.

Haida got around this by making two variable ND filters one for 2-5 stops and one for 6-10stops (or something like that).

the "X" is more of a problem with wider angles and smaller apertures. If you are using it so that you can shoot that f1.2-1.4 with your 50mm its less of a problem. somewhere in between for a 35mm lens.
if you want I can test it with my revoring and let you know.
 
nandbytes said:
you will get the dreaded "X" with almost all variable NDs its a matter of "finding" it.
if you shoot a 10mm lens on FF at f11 with variable ND turned to 10+stops, you will come across is very quickly.

Haida got around this by making two variable ND filters one for 2-5 stops and one for 6-10stops (or something like that).

the "X" is more of a problem with wider angles and smaller apertures. If you are using it so that you can shoot that f1.2-1.4 with your 50mm its less of a problem. somewhere in between for a 35mm lens.
if you want I can test it with my revoring and let you know.
Click to expand...
Thanks very much. I’m not actually looking at that filter tbh, I don’t want one with built in polariser or as many stops as that. It’s for motorsport so a 2-4 stop should suffice.
 
snerkler said:
Thanks very much. I’m not actually looking at that filter tbh, I don’t want one with built in polariser
Click to expand...
that's like saying you want get into water but don't want to get wet ;)
variable ND's are made using CPLs basically whether you like it or not.

snerkler said:
or as many stops as that. It’s for motorsport so a 2-4 stop should suffice.
Click to expand...
doesn't necessarily hurt if you have more stops in that case especially if you are getting at a good price and you are only using it at 2-4 stops range.
But the haida 2-5 stops is good option in that case
 
nandbytes said:
that's like saying you want get into water but don't want to get wet ;)
variable ND's are made using CPLs basically whether you like it or not.


doesn't necessarily hurt if you have more stops in that case especially if you are getting at a good price and you are only using it at 2-4 stops range.
But the haida 2-5 stops is good option in that case
Click to expand...
Yeah, but I mean I don’t want one with a specific polariser like that does. Also, it looks like you won’t be able to mount a lens hood with the REVORING. Are Haida a decent brand?
 
One from yesterday with my A7 and Canon 50mm f1.8 SC.

This lens has quite a long minimum focus distance, not as long as some RF lenses but this lens and the newer FDn 50mm f1.8 have quite a long MFD compared to my other film era 50's. Actually this SC's MFD is about the same as the TTArtison 50mm f2's.

At about MFD.

DSC05467.jpg

100%.

DSC05467-C.jpg

Even though the MFD could be better it is a nice lens but maybe not as nicely built as the Nippon Kogaku lenses I have.
 
snerkler said:
Yeah, but I mean I don’t want one with a specific polariser like that does. Also, it looks like you won’t be able to mount a lens hood with the REVORING. Are Haida a decent brand?
Click to expand...
I have a Haida CPL and a 10 stop found them to be decent.
 
snerkler said:
I've been looking at the K&F and some reviews are saying that the front of the filter is wider than the rear meaning that you can't attach a lens hood, have you run into this issue?
Click to expand...
Yep. Couldn’t fit a hood.
 
I have some Haida filters too. No IQ issues but the 6 stop does give a bit of a cast compared to the others.

I think the CPL might be Hoya rather than Haida - not 100% sure without checking.
 
snerkler said:
Yeah, but I mean I don’t want one with a specific polariser like that does. Also, it looks like you won’t be able to mount a lens hood with the REVORING. Are Haida a decent brand?
Click to expand...

Yeah they are a decent brand.
No idea about lens hoods with haida.
 
I'm tempted by the Sony 50mm f2.5.

I've always told myself buying one doesn't make sense as I have the 35mm f2.8 and that's small too. I also have the Sony 55 and 35mm f1.8's and two Voigtlander 50's and the TTArtisan f2. The 50mm f2.5 would give me a small AF 50mm but maybe it's too close to the old 35mm f2.8.

Hmmmm.

I've hovered over the buy button but so far I've resisted.
 
woof woof said:
I'm tempted by the Sony 50mm f2.5.

I've always told myself buying one doesn't make sense as I have the 35mm f2.8 and that's small too. I also have the Sony 55 and 35mm f1.8's and two Voigtlander 50's and the TTArtisan f2. The 50mm f2.5 would give me a small AF 50mm but maybe it's too close to the old 35mm f2.8.

Hmmmm.

I've hovered over the buy button but so far I've resisted.
Click to expand...

You won't agree with what I'd do :)

Sell all the AF lenses and buy the 40G :) Or maybe keep the 35/1.8 for lower light on the A7.....
 
Barrysprout said:
My small go bag usually has the 24mm f2.8 the 40mm f2.5 and sometimes the 55mm f1.8.
Click to expand...

Nice. I have the 24mm f2.8 G and the 55mm.

LeeRatters said:
You won't agree with what I'd do :)

Sell all the AF lenses and buy the 40G :) Or maybe keep the 35/1.8 for lower light on the A7.....
Click to expand...

As you know I had the Voigtlander 40mm f1.2 but now have the 35 and 50mm versions.

I don't think 40mm is a good fit for me now and it is of course even closer to the 35mm f2.8 I have so buying one maybe makes even less sense than buying the 50mm. The different build of the G lenses and their aperture rings compared the old 35mm f2.8 aren't big enough reasons for me in themselves. Another thing is that every time I use a 55mm lens I'm a bit irritated that it's 55 and not 50mm so the 50mm G could potentially replace the ocd triggering as it's ever so slightly tighter/longer than 50mm 55mm f1.8.

40mm is where I started (actually with 43mm) but these days after spending so much time with 35, 40, 50 and 55mm lenses of those I think 35 feels better for me as a usual first option with occasional uses for a 50/55mm rather than the piggy in the middle 40mm which may be ocd triggeringly close to 35mm and not able to replace a 50mm when 50mm is preferrable to 35 or 40mm. Of course I'd adjust in time though.

Decisions.

Mainly though this is just gas as I haven't bought anything for weeks :D
 
woof woof said:
Nice. I have the 24mm f2.8 G and the 55mm.



As you know I had the Voigtlander 40mm f1.2 but now have the 35 and 50mm versions.

I don't think 40mm is a good fit for me now and it is of course even closer to the 35mm f2.8 I have so buying one maybe makes even less sense than buying the 50mm. The different build of the G lenses and their aperture rings compared the old 35mm f2.8 aren't big enough reasons for me in themselves. Another thing is that every time I use a 55mm lens I'm a bit irritated that it's 55 and not 50mm so the 50mm G could potentially replace the ocd triggering as it's ever so slightly tighter/longer than 50mm 55mm f1.8.

40mm is where I started (actually with 43mm) but these days after spending so much time with 35, 40, 50 and 55mm lenses of those I think 35 feels better for me as a usual first option with occasional uses for a 50/55mm rather than the piggy in the middle 40mm which may be ocd triggeringly close to 35mm and not able to replace a 50mm when 50mm is preferrable to 35 or 40mm. Of course I'd adjust in time though.

Decisions.

Mainly though this is just gas as I haven't bought anything for weeks :D
Click to expand...

I think I had a crap copy of the Zeiss 35/2.8 - I never really got on with it.

You are more of a one lens shooter though aren't you? I think going out with 35mm AND 50mm is a bit close - 35mm AND 55mm together makes more sense to me, 85mm even more so!

But if I had to pick one, forever, it would be 35/1.4 for sure. The 40G appeals a little bit with the aperture ring & IQ etc but I just think I'd rather carry the extra 300g & have f/1.4 at 35mm!! Also, with the Riii, I can just shoot wider & crop a little if I want to.

I think my Voigtlander 40/1.2 will be going soon anyway.
 
LeeRatters said:
I think going out with 35mm AND 50mm is a bit close -
Click to expand...

I have been shooting weddings for about 2 years using a 35/50 combo for 99% of the shots.

Weddings are a good example of needing to be able to do everything. On the day you are a landscape, portrait, product and documentary photographer all rolled into one.

Using a 35/50 combo is very doable. I have shot weddings using just those and nothing else quite a few times over the last couple of years. The difference between 35mm and 50mm is a lot bigger than you might think only looking at the numbers.

In the first instance I only used this combo because I just loved using the 50 f/1.2, but after only a couple of weddings it just felt more natural to me to be using this combo over the usual 35/85 combo that most wedding photographers use. It just fits how I like to do things much better than 35/85 ever did.

Because I have so many lenses I do use other glass from time to time. I will use the 90mm macro for details, rings etc. and for the dancing I usually use a zoom lens. If I didn't have these lenses though I could happily just use the 35/50 all day and night with no issue at all.
 
nandbytes said:
I noticed a issue on my viltrox 16mm f1.8, when I set the aperture ring to f16 the camera is reading it as f18. I need to ever so slightly move off f16 to make it pick up f16 again.
Looks like the aperture ring is a little off for some reason. but the odd thing is its only off at this particular setting. It fine at all other aperture settings :thinking:

I didn't find this issue till yesterday since I almost never shoot past f11 otherwise would have sent it back.
Still under warranty with LCE.... I guess its worth giving them a shout.

Edit:
Tried it with clickless aperture, so it does hit f16 ever so slightly before the f16 marking and ever so slightly after f16 marking it moves very quickly to f18 (for other f-stop points you need to move the ring over half way between the two f-stop points before it pickup the next setting)
hmmm.... very odd that its like this only around f16
Click to expand...

So I sent my lens to LCE for getting repaired for the above issue I posted. They have accepted that the lens is faulty.
Viltrox also confirmed with them that this is not a software issue they can remotely fix.
But LCE are having a very hard time finding someone to repair a Viltrox lens locally.

LCE have asked if I'd accept a refund on the lens if needs be.
I am currently in two minds.... I could accept the refund and look for an alternative fast UWA prime. Finding another viltrox is a pain.
This is a good copy, which I have taken on 3 holidays and really happy with this copy. I almost never shoot at f16 so its almost a non-issue.
At the same time if the lens develops further faults it becomes hard/impossible for me to get it fixed if LCE themselves are having a hard time!

Looking for some thoughts/advice here on what people feel about this?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top