Canon EOS R Series Cameras

Is the hot shoe cover just a thing for the R3 to prevent water getting in , is it worthwhile getting one for the R5 ? , I’ve never had any issues with water but I do go out in the rain especially this time of year for macro shooting :)
 
LCPete said:
Is the hot shoe cover just a thing for the R3 to prevent water getting in , is it worthwhile getting one for the R5 ? , I’ve never had any issues with water but I do go out in the rain especially this time of year for macro shooting :)
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I think they’re new for the newer accessory shoe. Does the R3 have the new stupid shoe with no centre pin?
 
Phil V said:
I think they’re new for the newer accessory shoe. Does the R3 have the new stupid shoe with no centre pin?
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Ahh I see thanks :)
not familiar with the R3 I’m assuming that there’s no issues with the R5 shoe as I’ve never heard of anybody having problems with it
 
David Stallard said:
Damn that hot shoe cover - covered a whole season racing, rain cover on and off and never had an issue - went to Iceland feb/mar one rainy day the rain cover must have dragged over the shoe at just the right angle and. . . . gone :-( found a couple of replacements on line - hopefully will stay on - can't bring myself to stick tape on the camera lol
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There must be a naughty elf in Iceland collecting the damn things - that's where mine went too!
 
A TT685IIC on an R6II - everything seems to work just fine there (also X2TC trigger)
 
Tysonator said:
Hi,
Has any used Godox X1C on R7 and if does it work OK ! ?
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Does the R7 have a centre pin? Or is it the new accessory shoe?

If it’s the new one, you might be stuck with Canon only flash
 
Even centre pinless models of Godox are catered for by a firmware update (if they aren't already working out of the box like the TT685IIc)
 
Does anyone use their R5 for band photography? ( music festivals etc) ?

It’s not something that I do very often but I took mine to Focus Wales last weekend had a great time even though I’m not set up for it, my shortest full frame lens is the 70-200 F4 still managed some nice shots
the low light ability of the R5 is just amazing had a couple of issues with banding , lines across the shots but I was backlighting the subject against the lights but most of the time it wasn’t an issue and worked around it and still got the shots I wanted
can’t blame the camera as I was using electronic shutter next time will use mechanical
 
Checked today with my R7 toting pal... Both my Godox TT685IIC flash & X2T trigger work exactly as you'd expect a flash & trigger work.
 
LCPete said:
Does anyone use their R5 for band photography? ( music festivals etc) ?

It’s not something that I do very often but I took mine to Focus Wales last weekend had a great time even though I’m not set up for it, my shortest full frame lens is the 70-200 F4 still managed some nice shots
the low light ability of the R5 is just amazing had a couple of issues with banding , lines across the shots but I was backlighting the subject against the lights but most of the time it wasn’t an issue and worked around it and still got the shots I wanted
can’t blame the camera as I was using electronic shutter next time will use mechanical
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It might be the lights that are causing the problems, i had this once and had to enable the anti flicker on camera.
 
Pick said:
It might be the lights that are causing the problems, i had this once and had to enable the anti flicker on camera.
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thanks yes you’re right, I was shooting directly into the lights, didn’t know about anti flicker
also think it’s related to shutter speed as I managed to get some shots that were ok
 
LCPete said:
thanks yes you’re right, I was shooting directly into the lights, didn’t know about anti flicker
also think it’s related to shutter speed as I managed to get some shots that were ok
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Flicker and shutter speed are related.
If the shutter is open for an entire cycle of the light then there’s no issue (1/60 is about the right time I think - mains power =60 hertz).

LED lights actually cycle through a range of colours with the electricity supply, I think all lights flicker, but it’s LEDs that change colour most dramatically.
 
Phil V said:
Flicker and shutter speed are related.
If the shutter is open for an entire cycle of the light then there’s no issue (1/60 is about the right time I think - mains power =60 hertz).

LED lights actually cycle through a range of colours with the electricity supply, I think all lights flicker, but it’s LEDs that change colour most dramatically.
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Ahh I see thanks Phil
I’ll remember that was on max ISO a lot of the time but I’ll aim for a slower shutter speed next time 60th or slower
 
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Phil V said:
(1/60 is about the right time I think - mains power =60 hertz).
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Mains power in all of Europe, most South American countries, Australia, New Zealand, most of Africa & Japan (east of Kyoto) all use 50Hz (so one full cycle every 20ms) ... you should get no appreciable banding with a half cycle (10ms - 1/100s shutter) but the more cycles your shutter is open the lower the effect seeing the brightness of the lamp go from 0 to full and back to 0...

It's mostly a problem that comes with LED lights though because whilst the light output of all AC powered light sources varies with the voltage cycle

An incandescent (and indeed an old style fluorescent tube) don't vary that much (they switch on and off but it takes more time for the luminescence to decay by which time 10ms later it's being lit up to maximum brightness)

LEDs are almost binary in either being on or off - and the persistence of the luminescence is shorter - so they appear to saw up & down more appreciably...

None of this matters to your eye since it's all well above your eye's flicker fusion rate. Your dog may be going demented though.

LCPete said:
Ahh I see thanks Phil
I’ll remember that was on max ISO a lot of the time but I’ll aim for a slower shutter speed next time 60th or slower
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Not too low - you'll get motion blur
 
hunnymonster said:
Mains power in all of Europe, most South American countries, Australia, New Zealand, most of Africa & Japan (east of Kyoto) all use 50Hz (so one full cycle every 20ms) ... you should get no appreciable banding with a half cycle (10ms - 1/100s shutter) but the more cycles your shutter is open the lower the effect seeing the brightness of the lamp go from 0 to full and back to 0...

It's mostly a problem that comes with LED lights though because whilst the light output of all AC powered light sources varies with the voltage cycle

An incandescent (and indeed an old style fluorescent tube) don't vary that much (they switch on and off but it takes more time for the luminescence to decay by which time 10ms later it's being lit up to maximum brightness)

LEDs are almost binary in either being on or off - and the persistence of the luminescence is shorter - so they appear to saw up & down more appreciably...

None of this matters to your eye since it's all well above your eye's flicker fusion rate. Your dog may be going demented though.



Not too low - you'll get motion blur
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thanks yes I’ve just looked through some of my shots and do seem to be getting better results, sharper at 160/th or higher shutter speed , but when I’m shooting into the lights , trying to backlight the subject I’ll drop the speed did get some at 20/th that were ok
am assuming that most lights that bands use are LED as they are cheaper to run and run cooler , just guessing though
 
R6MkII new firmware 1.1.2 - doesn't seem to amount to much unless you're suffering from one of the issues mentioned in the release notes

Firmware Version 1.1.2 incorporates the following fix:
1. Improves the stability of the touch operation control when the [Touch control] is set to [Sensitive].
2. Fixes an issue that may result in only one battery being charged when the BG-R10 Battery Grip is attached.
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hunnymonster said:
R6MkII new firmware 1.1.2 - doesn't seem to amount to much unless you're suffering from one of the issues mentioned in the release notes
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So presumably that indicates that there’s not much wrong with the camera to start with? I’ll give it a few weeks before installing the update though as I don’t really need those fixes, just in case they’ve unwittingly introduced any new bugs.
 
I presently use a Canon 70D with a Sigma 150-600 C lens, 95% of it's use is for birds and wildlife.
Would the R7 be worth upgrading to? Sorry, I know very little about mirrorless cameras! Also, would my Sigma lens work with it?
 
Can't answer whether the R7 is worth upgrading to for you, but with the Canon Mount Adapter pretty much all of your EF lenses will work on the R7 (the one that is sticking in my mind as not working or not working properly is the non-L EF 100mm f/2.8 macro, but that may be fixed by now - I own neither R7 not non-L 100mm)
 
dougan said:
I presently use a Canon 70D with a Sigma 150-600 C lens, 95% of it's use is for birds and wildlife.
Would the R7 be worth upgrading to? Sorry, I know very little about mirrorless cameras! Also, would my Sigma lens work with it?
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I own neither and cannot say for sure, but I do know that some third party lenses need firmware updates to work with the R5, so I suspect also with the R7.

I’ve found the subject detection great for birds and wildlife on the R5, so I would expect the R7 to be a worthwhile upgrade.
 
I have just been reading about the pulsing focusing issues when the Sigma 150-600C lens is used with the R7. Most posts are over a year old, does anyone know if this fault is still present, or has there been a update to rectify it.
 
dougan said:
I have just been reading about the pulsing focusing issues when the Sigma 150-600C lens is used with the R7. Most posts are over a year old, does anyone know if this fault is still present, or has there been a update to rectify it.
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I tried my Sigma 150-600C on my R7 yesterday and it does pulse some photos are in focus and some are not. So out of 6 pics 3 are in focus and I don't think Sigma or Canon are going to do anything about it with firmware updates even on my R6 it happens but not as bad for some reason. It's a shame because some of the pics look great.
  • Canon EOS R6
    150-600mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM | Contemporary 015
  • ƒ/6.3 600.0 mm 1/800 ISO 250
 

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Thanks for the info, shame, as I would have probably got the R7, but as it would almost be used exclusively with the Sigma, looks like it's a no go.
Great Chaffinch by the way.
 
I had a R7 on trial the week before last and I didn’t have any pulsing issues with the Sigma 150-600 C. I was however only using it in single shot.
 
It's seems odd that some people do not suffer at all from the pulsing issue.
It's a shame I couldn't order one on the condition that if it did have the pulsing issues I could return it.
 
dougan said:
It's seems odd that some people do not suffer at all from the pulsing issue.
It's a shame I couldn't order one on the condition that if it did have the pulsing issues I could return it.
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I believe (from what I’ve read) the pulsing issues have always existed with that lens on more than one camera brand, but:
Whilst uncommon generally it’s slightly more of a problem on the Canon mirrorless.
It’s more likely in some very specific situations which may or may not matter depending what/how you shoot.

I’m about to buy one for use on my r6
Not letting the issues put me off.
 
Phil V said:
I believe (from what I’ve read) the pulsing issues have always existed with that lens on more than one camera brand, but:
Whilst uncommon generally it’s slightly more of a problem on the Canon mirrorless.
It’s more likely in some very specific situations which may or may not matter depending what/how you shoot.

I’m about to buy one for use on my r6
Not letting the issues put me off.
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Hi Phil, I used the C version on the R6 without issues at 600mm. Never pulsed or anything...
 
dougan said:
It's seems odd that some people do not suffer at all from the pulsing issue.
It's a shame I couldn't order one on the condition that if it did have the pulsing issues I could return it.
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You could use the Try the Kit scheme. Free hire for 48 hours, but you will probably need to wait before one becomes available.
 
dougan said:
I presently use a Canon 70D with a Sigma 150-600 C lens, 95% of it's use is for birds and wildlife.
Would the R7 be worth upgrading to? Sorry, I know very little about mirrorless cameras! Also, would my Sigma lens work with it?
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I own a 7Dii, R7, Sony NEX5R & A6600 !

The R7 has alien technology for AF, as the animal / Human eye detect is amazing which the R5 & R6ii is even better. Any Canon EF lens via the canon adapter the lens work fine and I regularly use my EF 70-300L IS USM, EF 100L IS USM Macro, and EF 100-400L IS USM Mkii.
There is a pulsing issue with my Sigma 150-600C on the R7, however watch this
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7TEu1Tgq5I


This is a pretty good fix for the problem.

I have the same issue on my Sigma 150-600C and Sigma 17-70 F2.8-4 OS HSM lenses
 
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Bit of a lazy one this…. I could research it all!

I’m thinking of getting a second mirrorless body to complement my R5 as a remote camera. I’ve been using my 7D (mk1 for this) for about 4 months and it’s gone so well I want something with better image quality and better auto focus. I have to set the 7D up to do rather simple tasks/shots and point the centre clustered focus points where the car will be so often not optimal framing.

It’s going to be used to shoot rallying, often placed closer to the road than I could humanly possibly get and in the firing line of dirt, mud, stones and rally cars! I.e I’m not looking to put an R3 down rhere at that risk…! So the cost/benefit must work!

Although I don’t use the ‘auto’ subject select option - what I’ve seen of it and when I have used it, it’s really quite good at picking out the subject hence thinking of going with a newer body for this purpose despite the risk.

So which canon bodies have the same autofocus system/vehicle tracking as the R5? If it’s possible with one of the more entry level cameras I could go down that route and negate the weather sealing with a protective cover?
 
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A question about extension tubes for the R7. Do I need to buy Canon OEM or will third party work equally as well. I know there's no glass but wondering if the R7 has issues with the non Canon connections
 
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