LongLensPhotography
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Preferably 100-400 ii too. I really wouldn't mind that on the cheap
Canon EOS R Series Cameras
Raymond Lin
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Try carry that 24-105 all day as your “daily” lol
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LongLensPhotography
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Raymond Lin
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Well, 24-105 has always been the “all in 1” lens that people often recommend. Not a 70-200.
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I think that the new 24-105 f2.8 is going to appeal to a lot of serious video shooters. People who are used to large cameras either on tripod or a shoulder or on a rig.
It does look like it's heavily aimed at the video market with an aperture ring and the optional power zoom module. Used with an R5C or C70 it would be a good video rig.
When you look in that arena, £3.5k is a bargain when comparing with cine lenses.
I do like my RF24-105 for it's versatility and I'd be interested in trying the f2.8 but there's not much chance of me getting one.
It does look like it's heavily aimed at the video market with an aperture ring and the optional power zoom module. Used with an R5C or C70 it would be a good video rig.
When you look in that arena, £3.5k is a bargain when comparing with cine lenses.
I do like my RF24-105 for it's versatility and I'd be interested in trying the f2.8 but there's not much chance of me getting one.
Interesting that people think the new lens will make people sell the 100-500 or 100-400?
I am not sure I would be swapping mine. I ran out of patience on that video to watching it all (the guy said he was going to tell us about the price next then waffled on for about 5 minutes on each lens) I hate these content creators that don’t get the point. Anway I did watch enough to learn that it’s not l series (although not sure that means a lot in the grand scheme of things), it’s not weather sealed and it’s starting max aperture is close to the max aperture on the 100-500. I think I shoot 200mm at around f4.5 to f5 on my 100-500 so to be at 6.3 at 200 I am loosing a lot of light on an already smaller than ideal aperture. Couldn’t use that in a dark winter forest for sure!
I am not sure I would be swapping mine. I ran out of patience on that video to watching it all (the guy said he was going to tell us about the price next then waffled on for about 5 minutes on each lens) I hate these content creators that don’t get the point. Anway I did watch enough to learn that it’s not l series (although not sure that means a lot in the grand scheme of things), it’s not weather sealed and it’s starting max aperture is close to the max aperture on the 100-500. I think I shoot 200mm at around f4.5 to f5 on my 100-500 so to be at 6.3 at 200 I am loosing a lot of light on an already smaller than ideal aperture. Couldn’t use that in a dark winter forest for sure!
LongLensPhotography
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Let's just say this will be barely doable on a gimbal like DJI RS3 pro, and will almost certainly have restrict movements due to size or specifically length. This is a very very big rig lens.
Actually something like 28-70mm is still cake walk on RS PRO series, it is all about that length.
Weeding shooters, yes sure.
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The thumbnail still alone was enough for me to not even consider clicking on it
I think the people saying it’ll replace the uses of a 100-500; are the usual lot who obviously haven’t shot the subject in the first place.
As you say; that’s a lot of light lost for a constantly moving subject.
I mean; this time of year I’m more than often at minimum 6400 ISO / f4 to get any “reasonable” shutter speed for the madness they go through flittering about first thing in the morning
Let alone a dark winter forest…
At the weekend I was shooting 300mm with thr 100-500 at whatever the max was for that focal length - I think about f5.6. To capture the action I needed around 1/400s and the iso it spat out (using Fv mode - I love that - not sure how widely known it is) was around ISO4000
On the R5 I made sure I set the compensation to 1/3 of stop so I slightly over exposed and I could get away with it… just - but I did seriously concider going with with the EF 300 f4L. If I had the choice between the 300 F4 and the 200-800 the 300 F4 would have won all the way.
The only thing this seems to have going for it is
A.) the price - it’s a lot of zoom for your buck
B.) the zoom - but it’s a very prohibitive aperture - people using that level of zoom won’t be able to use the shutter speeds they need to freeze the action - irrespective of 5 stops of IS….. as IS doesn’t freeze your subject…!
I’d be interested to know how it compares to to the other longer prime RFs like the 600 f8(?) or 800 f11(?) given those are primes as well and a lot cheeper - more bang for your buck
On the R5 I made sure I set the compensation to 1/3 of stop so I slightly over exposed and I could get away with it… just - but I did seriously concider going with with the EF 300 f4L. If I had the choice between the 300 F4 and the 200-800 the 300 F4 would have won all the way.
The only thing this seems to have going for it is
A.) the price - it’s a lot of zoom for your buck
B.) the zoom - but it’s a very prohibitive aperture - people using that level of zoom won’t be able to use the shutter speeds they need to freeze the action - irrespective of 5 stops of IS….. as IS doesn’t freeze your subject…!
I’d be interested to know how it compares to to the other longer prime RFs like the 600 f8(?) or 800 f11(?) given those are primes as well and a lot cheeper - more bang for your buck
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Yep. The 300 would’ve definitely been my first choice too.
Many people who stop and watch / ask me what I’m “looking for” give me strange looks when I tell them a longer lens for wildlife isn’t always the best approach (says me - carrying a 500mm
)I was taught (and try to stick to it) to always get as close as I can to the subject without harming me - or the animal involved.
Plus, it removes as much air contamination as possible between you too.
But the aperture (especially the difference between those 2) will always be invaluable.
Think both the 600 and 800 are fixed f11.
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the new 200-800 is interesting, for the last 10 years or so I’ve been using the 300 2.8 with 1.4 and 2.0 extender mainly photographing animals and have wondered about a slower zoom that would cover the same range and be less of a faff changing TCs but as Andrew already said sometimes the subject is moving and a higher shutter speed is needed
I have found even with using the 2.0 TC I’ve not needed to go above 1600 ISO and image quality is still excellent
I have found even with using the 2.0 TC I’ve not needed to go above 1600 ISO and image quality is still excellent
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LongLensPhotography
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I would much rather have 300/2.8, perhaps even the old one, or maybe that 500mm f/4. All depends how useful bare 300mm is, and I suspect the answer is very.
LongLensPhotography
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For a moment I thought EF 100-400 II, and the answer would be simple. Maybe that is the answer after all.
There is not much in it really. https://www.the-digital-picture.com...eraComp=1508&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=1
I think that should look miles better on low res R6 though. Maybe RF is ever so marginally better but you are forced to f/8 which is just poor. f/8+ onwards you are limited by diffraction on R5 so this becomes rather pointless.
However if you like the full range https://www.the-digital-picture.com...eraComp=1508&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=1
older lens is hands down better at wider settings, and that is important for a lot landscape and architecture shots.
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yes the 300 2.8 bare is really really good and still decent with 1.4 and very good with 2.0tc
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What’s the benefit of Fv vs M?
R5 has 3 dials so I can control shutter speed, aperture and ISO (or exposure compensation for auto ISO). What am I missing?
I have tended to always use Av priority since taking up photography but since getting an R5 It was suggested to me to try Fv mode. I love using the touchscreen for setting up a shot and I find Fv mode allows me to experiment with any combination of aperture, shutter speed, ISO and exposure compensation in a very speedy manner and see the results without having to go to the mode dial all the time. I just find it works better for me and allows me to consider options that perhaps I wouldn't have in the past.
Not the best of explanations but I think this explanation attached is where I am going from these days..
Flexible Priority (Fv) Mode on the EOS R — Jack Nichols Photography
www.jacknicholsphoto.com
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Thank you Trev, makes sense. I'm more a viewfinder person, especially for events and my muscle memory is well trained for the dials. I'll give Fv a try next time I'm out for landscape or something else using the touchscreen.I have tended to always use Av priority since taking up photography but since getting an R5 It was suggested to me to try Fv mode. I love using the touchscreen for setting up a shot and I find Fv mode allows me to experiment with any combination of aperture, shutter speed, ISO and exposure compensation in a very speedy manner and see the results without having to go to the mode dial all the time. I just find it works better for me and allows me to consider options that perhaps I wouldn't have in the past.
Not the best of explanations but I think this explanation attached is where I am going from these days..
Flexible Priority (Fv) Mode on the EOS R — Jack Nichols Photography
My R7 only has 2 dials so you can quickly do exposure compensation with auto iso in FV mode
Cool! - I'll have 2!
I tried using the FV mode on my R5 and I got irritated as I somehow kept managing to make everything switch to auto! Would love to know what I'm doing wrong with that and tend to set up the 3 custom modes for specific needs and rely mostly on Manual with auto ISO or AV modes
The benefit to me is that I can set whatever combination of the 3 I want to automatic. In reality i tend to just set the ISO to automatic and continue to control my Shutter and apature.
I don't think I can set auto ISO so easily in any other mode - as you have to have it set as auto in the menus - i can't use a dial to go down 100,50,auto.
By allowing me to flex like and also set auto aperture (as auto at the same time) so only leaving me to control the shutter.
I can concentrate on my process, shoot, review, rate between cars coming at 1 minute intervals without worrying about changing light or over/under exposing if I am shooting for freezing the car or a high speed pan.
It just works really really well, without having to change my dial between AV,TV,M etc when working with limited time windows.
The aperture thing works really well as it seems to balance the ISO/Aperture decently with priority on setting wide open if you are risk of under exposure (and not flexing ISO up) but conversely if you have excess light it will stop down a bit and balance the ISO.
Maybe i've just been missing something with Auto ISO for years, but on my 7D it never seemed to work like that, so to come from fully manual shooting or flicking between AV/TV to this kind of virtual assistant has been a bit of a revelation, and I can use thumb control to effectivly flick between TV/AV without overwriting any other setting, unlike when switching modes.
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I guess that’s the thing - they are so flexae there are many ways to achieve the same thing
I am still getting used to my R7. One issue is noise on certain shots eg when I am photographing birds in less than ideal light, having to use a fast shutter speed resulting in a high ISO. Not that surprising given it has a 32.5MP APS-C sized sensor. The images can be cleaned up with LR and/or Topaz but I would prefer to have less noise in the first place.
I suppose it is back to basics ie try to lower the shutter speed, reduce the ISO and use a tripod.
Any other tips?
I suppose it is back to basics ie try to lower the shutter speed, reduce the ISO and use a tripod.
Any other tips?
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I'm not far off buying an R7, providing I can get used to the size once I get one in the hands.
So, coming from a 1D3 and 7D just how much more noise is there on the R7? is it really as bad as I have read?
So, coming from a 1D3 and 7D just how much more noise is there on the R7? is it really as bad as I have read?
The reviews are mixed on noise. From my post above I have concerns but these are at the extremes. At lowish ISO it is absolutely fine.
I had the 7D briefly and didn't like the noise from day one. I found the 7D ii to be much better. Perhaps I had a bad version of the 7D. The 1D3 is in a different league so it should be better.
You could use Canon Try the Kit and see for yourself before you buy.
If you have decent noise reduction software it does not matter much.
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Understand. I very rarely / never want shutter speed or aperture on auto. Either I want to be sure im freezing the action or I want to control how slow I go with the shutter for a pan or similar. That leaves ISO which is working very well on auto and using the dial for exposure compensation for dark or bright scenes.
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I own the RF 70-300L IS USM & 100-400L IS USM Mkii and both are sharp on my R7, I like them both !
Even the 100-400 has more reach my 70-300L is small, light and easy to put in a coat pocket, therefore a great travel zoomy lens. I like my 100-400 Mkii because of the reach and great IQ and use it when I do not have to travel on a plane, train etc.
Me too I’d rarly want auto shutter but if I am switching between shots regularly to be able to have auto iso and auto aperture is useful and to then be able to come out of that mode flexibly than having to change mode is useful.
As has been said by Phil - you probably could do it via the normal modes but I’d never found a way to set auto iso up (without loosing the ability to go back to auto if/when I switch to a desired setting)
I’ll be out again this weekend so I’ll consciously consider when and how I use it to perhaps give a better, more tangable example than above
I’ve always wanted the 70-300L, but with a 70-200, 300 f4 and now the 100-500, realistically I’ve never needed it…
Can someone convince me to buy a second hand copy because the prices are pretty appealing!
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It all sounds so complicated when I read how others make compromises setting their camera up.
Mine is so simple I can literally hand it to anyone and 5 seconds of instructions they’ll get a perfectly focussed, perfectly sharp image.
Auto ISO was a game changer as soon as it worked properly.
I mostly shoot people so AV, and 1/250 as minimum SS on the auto ISO.
That’s a ‘set and forget’. Genuinely if I need a higher SS then I’m into TV mode (sports mostly).
I’d only need Manual then if I was in the rare position of slow SS shots (not my bag) or when using flash (but I have C1 setup ready to go for that).
Mine is so simple I can literally hand it to anyone and 5 seconds of instructions they’ll get a perfectly focussed, perfectly sharp image.
Auto ISO was a game changer as soon as it worked properly.
I mostly shoot people so AV, and 1/250 as minimum SS on the auto ISO.
That’s a ‘set and forget’. Genuinely if I need a higher SS then I’m into TV mode (sports mostly).
I’d only need Manual then if I was in the rare position of slow SS shots (not my bag) or when using flash (but I have C1 setup ready to go for that).
LongLensPhotography
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I bought the 3rd party grip thing just hoping it would improve the handling of R6
It does and it doesn't.
In vertical mode, i.e. portrait session that's a big win. Ideally with that unruly EF 70-200mm f/2.8 mk whatever, or bigger ones.
In horizontal it is not so clear if it helps or gets in a way more. The shape is not exactly what I would have come up with at all. There is a bit near shutter that sticks right into your palm, and it doesn't join with camera very cleanly. Not that the canon one is any different.
Obviously forget tripod plate on it, and while it is securely enough attached to the body in actual use not to really notice anything, you can get it to flex and wobble it a little. And again I don't see how plastic canon at £300+ is any better here. Bare R6 makes very poor contact with Manfrotto RC4 plate. The tripod hole is right on the edge of the camera, so it just pivots, and flexes around that point. What a horrible design, that could be prevented by extending the bottom by 1cm and at the same time much improving the hand grip as well as cooling. Come on Canon. Stop being cheap
The biggest worry though is the lack of any rubber gasket where it mounts into the battery hole. That rules out any outdoor use. Maybe you can add a ring of some auto silicone where the rubber presumably had to be. Have you guys done any mods like this?
In fact I don't have much confidence taking R6 just by itself is anything less than nice and dry weather outdoors.
I am seriously considering retaining the batteries from the kit and sticking all the rest on fleabay.
I guess there are only two choices of decently sized camera these days and that's R3 and Z9 and I it is obvious which one wins on features and price.
It does and it doesn't.
In vertical mode, i.e. portrait session that's a big win. Ideally with that unruly EF 70-200mm f/2.8 mk whatever, or bigger ones.
In horizontal it is not so clear if it helps or gets in a way more. The shape is not exactly what I would have come up with at all. There is a bit near shutter that sticks right into your palm, and it doesn't join with camera very cleanly. Not that the canon one is any different.
Obviously forget tripod plate on it, and while it is securely enough attached to the body in actual use not to really notice anything, you can get it to flex and wobble it a little. And again I don't see how plastic canon at £300+ is any better here. Bare R6 makes very poor contact with Manfrotto RC4 plate. The tripod hole is right on the edge of the camera, so it just pivots, and flexes around that point. What a horrible design, that could be prevented by extending the bottom by 1cm and at the same time much improving the hand grip as well as cooling. Come on Canon. Stop being cheap
The biggest worry though is the lack of any rubber gasket where it mounts into the battery hole. That rules out any outdoor use. Maybe you can add a ring of some auto silicone where the rubber presumably had to be. Have you guys done any mods like this?
In fact I don't have much confidence taking R6 just by itself is anything less than nice and dry weather outdoors.
I am seriously considering retaining the batteries from the kit and sticking all the rest on fleabay.
I guess there are only two choices of decently sized camera these days and that's R3 and Z9 and I it is obvious which one wins on features and price.
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try an L-bracket to be more solid?
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Probably we all view our set-ups as simple for ourselves as we've tuned the settings for our needs?
For me, it's Manual mode with auto ISO and the 3 dials to control shutter speed, aperture, and +/- exposure compensation.
C3 for video as that is what it uses when you press the record button in photo mode.
C1 and C2 occasionally configured for fast switching between freezing action and slow shutter effects.
LongLensPhotography
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Have you tried RC4 bracket on one?
Do they give a good handgrip extension at least 1cm or more?
smallrig sellers just completely ignore my question and product images don't look 100% convincing so to be fair I gave up on them
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Ive not tried any of them. I have one on GFX50R which does help a lot which made me think of it.
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My R7 set up is simple, shutter button for spot focus, and AF-on for Eye AF and tracking. Shoot in Manual with flexible ISO or TV mode. That gets me 90% of my shots for action, aviation and wildlife.
Now macro, well that is whole different world !
Now macro, well that is whole different world !