Large Format photography group - From "zero to hero!"

Hello all.

Can anyone tell me who, if anyone, is still manufacturing large format slide film?
 
I devved another four sheets of Fomapan 100 today. Three turned out fine, but one had a nasty light leak, which I'm putting down as some sort of user error. I'm getting better at focusing now (athough f/32 is perhaps a bit of a crutch :D). What I now need to get better at is composing on the ground-glass. I'm fine at composing with my 35mm or medium format cameras, but I'm finding it more difficult with large format. Slowing down will help (not that I'm rushing in any real sense of the word), and maybe a fresnel for the GG so I can see what is actually inside the bounds of the frame better.

Here are a couple I've scanned and uploaded today:

Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°
1/8sec @ f/32


Graveyard crucifixes by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr


This old school has been renovated since I last passed by and now looks to be a fancy house (or possibly apartments). While this is great, it kinda looked more interesting when it was a bit run down. :)

1/15sec @ f/32


The old school by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
 
I devved another four sheets of Fomapan 100 today. Three turned out fine, but one had a nasty light leak, which I'm putting down as some sort of user error. I'm getting better at focusing now (athough f/32 is perhaps a bit of a crutch :D). What I now need to get better at is composing on the ground-glass. I'm fine at composing with my 35mm or medium format cameras, but I'm finding it more difficult with large format. Slowing down will help (not that I'm rushing in any real sense of the word), and maybe a fresnel for the GG so I can see what is actually inside the bounds of the frame better.

Here are a couple I've scanned and uploaded today:

Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°
1/8sec @ f/32


Graveyard crucifixes by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr


This old school has been renovated since I last passed by and now looks to be a fancy house (or possibly apartments). While this is great, it kinda looked more interesting when it was a bit run down. :)

1/15sec @ f/32


The old school by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
Not a lot wrong with them Nige!

You’re getting to grips with LF quite well tbh .

As for fresnels.
At the risk of opening a can of worms , i would neither recommend nor dismiss them.

Out of six field cameras that I possess, two have them as standard from the manufacturer, three don’t but can have them installed and one ( the canham) , I don’t think has one .

That last line sort of sums up how much of a difference I actually notice with them installed or not.

From what I understand they can be beneficial for wide angle lenses , so on 54 I would say 90mm or wider.

I actually have a 90mm f/8 and assuming that the canham doesnt have a fresnel , I’ve managed just fine using that lens.

I really don’t know for sure that you will gain much when using it on a 135mm….. i can’t say that I have using a 150mm which on 54 format is practically the same focal length.

Perhaps @stevelmx5 can advise you better concerning the chroma ground glass.
 
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Not a lot wrong with them Nige!

You’re getting to grips with LF quite well tbh .

As for fresnels.
At the risk of opening a can of worms , i would neither recommend nor dismiss them.

Out of six field cameras that I possess, two have them as standard from the manufacturer, three don’t but can have them installed and one ( the canham) , I don’t think has one .

That last line sort of sums up how much of a difference I actually notice with them installed or not.

From what I understand they can be beneficial for wide angle lenses , so on 54 I would say 90mm or wider.

I actually have a 90mm f/8 and assuming that the canham doesnt have a fresnel , I’ve managed just fine using that lens.

I really don’t know for sure that you will gain much when using it on a 135mm….. i can’t say that I have using a 150mm which on 54 format is practically the same focal length.

Perhaps @stevelmx5 can advise you better concerning the chroma ground glass.

Thanks Asha, that's useful to know. I guess without actually comparing with vs without it's difficult to know if it will provide a useful improvement.
 
I think I said before, getting a fresnel was the best thing I did with my MPP, in average light I don't need a dark cloth but the MPP does have a flip-out hood around the ground glass.

Really good photos BTW the one from the grave yard is so close to spot on, well done
 
Here're the other two sheets I developed yesterday.

Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°
1/2sec @ f/32

This first one is pretty nice, but I missed the composition slightly - the bottom of the bench is cropped and so is the left edge of the structure. Must try harder!


Botanical bicycle by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

The next one had a significant light leak, but some heavy cropping and Lightroom faffing managed to rescue it to some extent (although it's still a bit muddy at the left, and some of the blacks have been crushed in the process of editing it).


Greenhouse (rescued image) by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

This is what it looked like before I edited it:


Greenhouse (pre-rescued image) by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
 
Not yet, but I can get an 8x20 back for my Canham 10x8 camera if I decide to :)

Although I think it's unlikely....
 
Not yet, but I can get an 8x20 back for my Canham 10x8 camera if I decide to :)

Although I think it's unlikely....
Send it out to me cos I’ll give it a whirl with an 820 back!:naughty:
 
Another day, another thrilling episode of "What went wrong this time?!?". :D

Anyone know what might have caused this? My suspicion is a defective sheet of film. The only other thing I can possibly suspect is that I didn't pre-wash this batch of Fomapan before developing. However I've forgotten to do that in the past too and never seen anything like this as a result.


Another 4x5 problem by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

The other three sheets developed at the same time all seem ok, including this one:

Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Ilfotec DD-X 1+9 12 mins @ 20°
1/2sec @ f/32


Froggat Bridge by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
 
Looks like the emulsion is damaged or a coating error at the factory? I don't think it is going to be anything you have done.

I did once do an accidental emulsion lift on some FP4 by washing it at 60 deg. C under a mixer tap turned to hot by mistake, I noticed the error when I saw water vapour rising from the dev. tank.
It starts from the edge not the middle.
 

This looks too good to be true price wise? I asked the seller if any fungus, haze, seperation or scratches and their response was

"No its a very clean lens" :ROFLMAO:
 
Another scan from yesterdays dev session. I've four more sheets devved today drying as I type. Practice makes perfect, I hope!

Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Ilfotec DD-X 1+9 12 mins @ 20°
1/2sec @ f/22 (both images)


Beside the Derwent by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
 
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Yesterday's developing session was the first to produce four images without any issues at all (yay!) - no film defects, no light leaks, and the compositions and focusing on point. A shame the weather was so bland and overcast when I took them, but that's the UK for you - beggars can't be choosers on that front. Annoyingly, now I'm back at work this week, the weather looks like if will be brighter, at least on some of the days. :mad:

Here are two that I've ulpoaded to Flickr already. Will post the other couple tomorrow.

Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Ilfotec DD-X 1+9 12 mins @ 20°
1/2sec @ f/22 (both frames)


Trans-Pennine trail over the Don by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr


Carrying trains across the Don by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
 
Where do people get their large format shutters and lenses serviced? I just had a quote from Sendean in London and what they were asking was more than I paid for some of the lenses!
 
Yesterday's developing session was the first to produce four images without any issues at all (yay!) - no film defects, no light leaks, and the compositions and focusing on point. A shame the weather was so bland and overcast when I took them, but that's the UK for you - beggars can't be choosers on that front. Annoyingly, now I'm back at work this week, the weather looks like if will be brighter, at least on some of the days. :mad:
You look to be getting on really well. (y)
 
Where do people get their large format shutters and lenses serviced? I just had a quote from Sendean in London and what they were asking was more than I paid for some of the lenses!
I used a guy in the uk called Miles for repairs and CLAs but he has now retired .

Tbh since Brexit, I wouldn’t now send to the uk as the whole postal system is a performance with paperwork and the potential to be stuffed on taxes and fees on items that I’ve already paid taxes on!

No doubt there are suitable services available more locally ( Paris without a doubt), though I suspect prices to be substantial.

I may do a little searching of neighboring countries such as Germany out of curiousity .
It may even be worth your worthwhile too if uk charges are extortionate
though as mentioned there’s the customs pantomime to take into account and I believe that there are numerous companies based on the continent that are now ceasing their trading with the uk.
 
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Where do people get their large format shutters and lenses serviced? I just had a quote from Sendean in London and what they were asking was more than I paid for some of the lenses!

I used Linhof Studio to sort out a lens I dropped back in 2019, they straightened out the filter ring and checked for decentering. Total was £65+VAT. I believe they charge per hour of labour so that was the minimum.
 
I used a guy in the uk called Miles for repairs and CLAs but he has now retired .

Tbh since Brexit, I wouldn’t now send to the uk as the whole postal system is a performance with paperwork and the potential to be stuffed on taxes and fees on items that I’ve already paid taxes on!

No doubt there are suitable services available more locally ( Paris without a doubt), though I suspect prices to be substantial.

I may do a little searching of neighboring countries such as Germany out of curiousity .
It may even be worth your worthwhile too if uk charges are extortionate
though as mentioned there’s the customs pantomime to take into account and I believe that there are numerous companies based on the continent that are now ceasing their trading with the uk.
Yeah Linhoff look to be good and only in Essex. While I'm here Asha, do you know of any c41 colour labs in France, still planning my Alpe dhuez trip although the tour doesnt go up it this year

I used Linhof Studio to sort out a lens I dropped back in 2019, they straightened out the filter ring and checked for decentering. Total was £65+VAT. I believe they charge per hour of labour so that was the minimum.
Yeah they seem to be the sensible choice, £97 for a basic shutter service with slow speeds

cheers guys
 
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Yeah Linhoff look to be good and only in Essex. While I'm here Asha, do you know of any c41 colour labs in France, still planning my Alpe dhuez trip although the tour doesnt go up it this year

I haven’t used a lab out here in nearly twenty years and that was in Toulon .

I recall costs for c41 Dev from 35mm film were very elevated ( although 5x4 prints were part of the package )

When I moved further east to where i am now i was more into monochrome and home deving so never used labs again.

I have noticed that the few locations ( notably in Nice) that did offer processing, no longer exist and the one store that does still stock a small amount of film related gear and consumables likely sends any film deving out to contract.

If you let me know exactly where you will be based and what film formats you will need souping , im happy to make some enquiries for you.:)
 
I haven’t used a lab out here in nearly twenty years and that was in Toulon .

I recall costs for c41 Dev from 35mm film were very elevated ( although 5x4 prints were part of the package )

When I moved further east to where i am now i was more into monochrome and home deving so never used labs again.

I have noticed that the few locations ( notably in Nice) that did offer processing, no longer exist and the one store that does still stock a small amount of film related gear and consumables likely sends any film deving out to contract.

If you let me know exactly where you will be based and what film formats you will need souping , im happy to make some enquiries for you.:)
Ill be staying in Le Bourg-d'Oisans and so flying out of Grenoble/Geneve or Leon depending on flight prices haha, if I can really be bothered ( and ive done it before) ill drive down from Paris and then I can just take it all back to London a la Eurotunnel or maybe even TGV
 
Ill be staying in Le Bourg-d'Oisans and so flying out of Grenoble/Geneve or Leon depending on flight prices haha, if I can really be bothered ( and ive done it before) ill drive down from Paris and then I can just take it all back to London a la Eurotunnel or maybe even TGV
Ok I’ll ask around and see what I can come up with.

Briefly going off topic, as for the TGV , I realise there is a little time yet before the tour but there are serious disruptions out here this year following the govt pension reforms so strikes are a regular occurrence atm , many of which being announced with very little notice .
SNCF ( who of course incorporate the TGV services) in particular , has caused huge disruption on several occasions ( as it is there are no trains passing through my village tomorrow nor Wednesday, possibly additional days too !!)

Other secteurs are also sometimes concerned including air traffic controllers.
I believe many services are affected tomorrow.

Unless the situation calms down ( unlikely to happen anytime soon!) , driving down may prove to be your better option.

I’ll get back to you with any info I come up with concerning labs ……
 
Ok I’ll ask around and see what I can come up with.

Briefly going off topic, as for the TGV , I realise there is a little time yet before the tour but there are serious disruptions out here this year following the govt pension reforms so strikes are a regular occurrence atm , many of which being announced with very little notice .
SNCF ( who of course incorporate the TGV services) in particular , has caused huge disruption on several occasions ( as it is there are no trains passing through my village tomorrow nor Wednesday, possibly additional days too !!)

Other secteurs are also sometimes concerned including air traffic controllers.
I believe many services are affected tomorrow.

Unless the situation calms down ( unlikely to happen anytime soon!) , driving down may prove to be your better option.

I’ll get back to you with any info I come up with concerning labs ……
Hero thanks!
 
as a fellow Chamonix user @Asha what is your Tilt/Scheimpflug procedure? Focus near, tilt far or vice versa? I see you have rear standard focus on the h1, my n2 only has front standard focus, for landscape I read this doest matter but for close ups rear is better as it doesnt not change the subject perspective

Anyone please chime in with your method as well!
 
as a fellow Chamonix user @Asha what is your Tilt/Scheimpflug procedure? Focus near, tilt far or vice versa? I see you have rear standard focus on the h1, my n2 only has front standard focus, for landscape I read this doest matter but for close ups rear is better as it doesnt not change the subject perspective

Anyone please chime in with your method as well!
Haven’t you figured out yet that I just wingt:LOL:

I don’t have a set procedure tbh , not with anything in life( I find routine and systems that are laid out like a menu are tiresome, boring and are for sheep!) ….. I just do whatever feels right at the time .

If landscapes then focus near , tilt for far is i think usually the way it goes ( like it is for most of togs), but not always .

I don’t impose fixed rules in life and those that try and force me to follow those that they dictate generally come to realise that I rebel against them.:LOL:
 
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as a fellow Chamonix user @Asha what is your Tilt/Scheimpflug procedure? Focus near, tilt far or vice versa? I see you have rear standard focus on the h1, my n2 only has front standard focus, for landscape I read this doest matter but for close ups rear is better as it doesnt not change the subject perspective

Anyone please chime in with your method as well!

It depends if you have axis tilt or base tilt.

Axis tilt: focus on near, tilt towards far.

Base tilt: focus far, tilt towards near.

The Chamonix uses axis tilt so you use the first method.
 
We got some brighter weather on a day I actually wasn't at work yesterday, so I managed to get out and shoot four sheets of 4x5. I was able to dev them this lunchtime and the results look good, but the image below suffered a light leak (I think I'm either still having trouble when removing the dark-slide, or this particular film-holder is not woking quite as it should somehow). Whatever the case, I think it still works nicely even after a significant crop (anbout 40% off the left-hand side of the frame), and there's still a ton of detail in there. :)

Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Ilfotec DD-X 1+9 12 mins @ 20°
1/30sec @ f/32


House by a railway by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
 
We got some brighter weather on a day I actually wasn't at work yesterday, so I managed to get out and shoot four sheets of 4x5. I was able to dev them this lunchtime and the results look good, but the image below suffered a light leak (I think I'm either still having trouble when removing the dark-slide, or this particular film-holder is not woking quite as it should somehow). Whatever the case, I think it still works nicely even after a significant crop (anbout 40% off the left-hand side of the frame), and there's still a ton of detail in there. :)
Spotted you over at Large Format Forum, nice to see you there!
 
Whats your metering technique? Seems you have all the tones here, is that the scanning? Or are you a master of the negative?

Thanks. I pretty much always use incident metering (I don't have a spot meter I can use beyond an app on my phone, which I'm not sure I fully trust, or the alternative of just getting up really close and taking individual reflective readings). What I generally do is make sure the meter is in the same light as the subject (as best as I can) and then just use the incident reading.
When I scan (using Epsonscan) I make sure the histogram has a full range of tones. Then I tweak in Lightroom.
 
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