Mamiya Medium Format owners group

Does anyone have any experience of using 2x teleconverters on an RB? I'm after a longer tele lens (250+) for landscapes but I can't find one at even a half reasonable price at the moment. Figured I could get a 2x Vivitar teleconverter which would make my 127mm a 254mm lens which is 2 stops slower. Just curious how much they reduce image quality?

The teleconverters are pretty cheap and it would mean one less lens to carry in an already heavy bag lol
 
Well I'd want to know if some one has actually used a teleplus or Vivitar as my experience with converters with 35mm.... it's mix and match for 3rd party stuff..i.e. some converters work better with some lenses.
 
I have a Komura x2 which I use with a Nikkor 250 F4 on Veronica, I dunno if the hypothesis that 99% of MF lenses are of pretty high quality across their range and across brands extends to teleconverters but....I can't really tell whether I used it or not just from sharpness/clarity.
Shutter speed is obviously slower and focal length is longer, thus anything handheld could be subject to camera shake or motion blur, besides that, the teles from Veronica are as sharp and clear as makes no difference.
I dunno about RB stuff but I would imagine its comparative with Veronica..:)
 
I used up some 2003 outdated Fuji Velvia 50 rated 32 ASA in my lovely 'Gift' Mamiya C220 -- I used the 135mm f4.5 'Blue Dot' Sekors and the 80mm f2.8 'Blue Dot Sekors. I just did a small amount of 'Colour Correction' in PhotoShop 7 as I would do RA4 Printing in my Darkroom with the filters as film had a slight Magenta/Blue cast due to its age ( but it was FREE ! )
Brentwood High Street on a rare SUNNY Day !! 135mm lens set
High Street ( C220).jpg

Across the London Millenium Bridge, 135mm lens set
C220 01.jpg

One of the many 'Jodas' Street Performers -- River Thames South Bank 80mm f2.8 lens
C220 02.jpg
The Traditional 'Boundary' between City of London and City of Westminster -- 135mm lens and I did a small amount of 'Verticals Correction'
C220 03.jpg
 
Couple more from my outdated Fuji Velvia 50 in my lovely 'Gift' Mamiya C220
British Post Box -- only good in 'afternoon light' -- I took it hand-held 1/500th @ f4.5 on 135mm f4.5 Blue Dot Sekor set rating the shutter speed at 1/400th on Weston Master III incident light measure.
C220-10.jpg
Topiary in a Charity Garden -- 80mm f2.8 Blue Dot Sekor set, hand-held.
C220-11.jpg
 
Few more from my Mamiya C220 The LONDON ones had a magenta/blue cast but later ones in Brentwood had NO cast so I think it is the UV light over the River Thames -- i tried to correct the cast.
135mm f4.5 Blue Dot Sekors
C220 : London Skyline by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

C220 : London Bus by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

80mm f2.8 Blue Dot Sekors -- Parallax Correction used + extra exposure for bellows extension

C220 Parallax by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
 
I was given some rolls of 220 size Kodak Ektachrome 200 so I loaded my Mamiya C220 and gave it a whirl -- well, the results were a low 'D-Max' and a Blue Colour Cast due to the age of film but I managed to correct in PhotoShop 7 -- I scanned with my Epson 1650 flatbed _ Vuescan + PhotoShop 7
London: Admiralty Arch on to The Mall 80mm f2.8 Blue Dot Sekors
C220 in London by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

London : Sunbathers in St James' Park, 135mm f4.5 Blue Dot Sekors
C220 in London by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

London : London Souvenirs all 'Made in CHINA' !! 80mm f2.8 Blue Dot Sekors

C220 in London by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
 
Thanks all -- I have some MORE to show but do not want to 'Hog' the uploads ! ( Keep Watching !! )
 
Colchester Filipino Festival 2016 -- not as big as the Hounslow ( near London) one and only a few 'Aunties' doing the traditional Dances -- no Young Filipina Beauties in Grass Skirts any more !
I used my MAMIYA C220 loaded with the outdated Kodak Ektachrome 220 film and a little Fill-in flash

Chicken Feet are a Delicacy -- my Wife's Aunties serve it up -- it is a bit 'Chewy' for my British National Health TEETH !! 80mm f2.8 Blue Dot Sekors
Colchester ( Essex) Filipino Festival 2016 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

Traditional Dancers -- 135mm f4.5 Blue Dot Sekors

Colchester ( Essex) Filipino Festival 2016 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

X- Factor Contestant -- 135mm f4.5 Blue Dot Sekors


Colchester ( Essex) Filipino Festival 2016 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

Singer Lady who posed for me -- 135mm f4.5 Blue Dot Sekors

Colchester ( Essex) Filipino Festival 2016 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
 
I found a tranny taken on my Mamiya Press Super 23 in about 1969 of my first Daughter -- she is now over 40 , married, with two Children -- it was sent to my Agency and they sent it back un-used with lots of others as they no longer want 'Real FILM' photos. I took it on Kodak Ektachrome film with my Braun Hobby flash and teh 150mm f5.6 Sekor lens.
Angela.jpg
 
pentaxpete said:
Hi all : Hope you don't mind but I have just done a Video on my 1968 Mamiya Press Super 23 showing the lenses, Rollfim backs and many results -- you c an see it here
Click to expand...

I hope to get out with my Mamiya Universal Press soon. It will be the first time it has ever been used!


Steve.
 
I thought you were babysitting it...:D

Still, by my reckoning you have a duty of care to fullfill, due maintenance must be an element of duty of care, operational testing must form part of maintenance, thus I conclude you ought to be shooting the bejebus out of it....tbh

:)
 
Chipperfield's Circus Brentwood, taken in the 1970's -- I sent them to Picturepoint Agency then that was taken over when Ken Gibson died by Topham and they sent all my 'Hard Copy' transparencies back as they want only 'Digital' now -- NO SALES --- all that effort ! Now people PROTEST about 'Animals being in Circuses' but it was accepted then 40 years ago -- the transparencies have survived all those years -- it was Kodak 'High Speed Ektachrome' tungsten film 125 ASA ! This was taken on my 1968 MAMIYA Press Super 23 6x7 format, 100mm f3.5 Sekor lens at full aperture.

1970's Circus 02 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

1970's Circus 03 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
 
Interesting shots and even more interesting colours... but they don't look a happy bunch of lions, do they!
 
can i play:D
412866463.jpg
 
On the RB67 how do you take long exposures? I've got a film in the camera so can't play with it after reading the manual which is a bit confusing as in one pic it shows a cable in the mirror up hole, with a finger operating the shutter AND in another pic shows using a dual cable (which I have).
So have I got this right:- I turn the mirror up button to align the red dots and then all I have to do is fit the dual cable, then cock the shutter and wind on the film then when I press the plunger on the dual cable this will keep the mirror up and shutter open and till I release the plunger?
What's the "T" on the lens for? can this be used to bi-pass mirror up?
 
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excalibur2 said:
On the RB67 how do you take long exposures?
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Set the lens to T and fire the shutter in you're preferred manner, I've never bothered with lock up for long exposures but I do use a cable release on the body trigger to as it so fiddly to get at on a tripod you can gently bump it. When you've finished push the cocking leaver down to shut the lens and reset the mirror.
 
steveo_mcg said:
Set the lens to T and fire the shutter in you're preferred manner, I've never bothered with lock up for long exposures but I do use a cable release on the body trigger to as it so fiddly to get at on a tripod you can gently bump it. When you've finished push the cocking leaver down to shut the lens and reset the mirror.
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That's a relief that it is so simple.
 
On my 127 K/L I set it to T and use two cable releases in either side of the lens, M.UP to start the exposure and B to end it.
 
:eek: I've just noticed my 180mm RB lens has a problem with the delay in operating the shutter and the iris opening e.g. set on 1 sec and press the shutter button and it can take about 5 secs for the iris to open.....starting at 1/400 sec it gradually get worse the slower the shutter speed and on "T" can be about 9 secs (before the iris opens).
I've tried firing about 30 times and it doesn't get better, so something seems to be sticking causing the delay.
Is Miles and expert on RB lenses?
 
excalibur2 said:
:eek: I've just noticed my 180mm RB lens has a problem with the delay in operating the shutter and the iris opening e.g. set on 1 sec and press the shutter button and it can take about 5 secs for the iris to open.....starting at 1/400 sec it gradually get worse the slower the shutter speed and on "T" can be about 9 secs (before the iris opens).
I've tried firing about 30 times and it doesn't get better, so something seems to be sticking causing the delay.
Is Miles and expert on RB lenses?
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Well emailed Miles and he replied "a service is about £50 plus postage" so all in could be £60 ( :eek: it must be complicated to get at as all the shutter speed are OK and no dust etc on the glass elements and all it needs is the mechanism for shutter to iris needs cleaning or lubricating).
Well the lens is still usuable for stationary objects but if the iris doesn't open immediately when pressing the shutter button, it would be useless for anything else. :( Well I'm thinking do I want to spend £60 on the RB67 when I have the ETRs with a full set of lenses, but do have the 65mm for RB67....h'mmmm
 
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excalibur2 said:
Well emailed Miles and he replied "a service is about £50 plus postage" so all in could be £60 ( :eek: it must be complicated to get at as all the shutter speed are OK and no dust etc on the glass elements and all it needs is the mechanism for shutter to iris needs cleaning or lubricating).
Well the lens is still usuable for stationary objects but if the iris doesn't open immediately when pressing the shutter button, it would be useless for anything else. :( Well I'm thinking do I want to spend £60 on the RB67 when I have the ETRs with a full set of lenses, but do have the 65mm for RB67....h'mmmm
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I'll give you £30 cash for the 180mm Brian, save you sending it to Miles and give you enough money for another 60 car boot flashguns.
 
excalibur2 said:
:D If only we had US prices (or other countries) here starting at $23 (probably needs repair)... as on the bay this looks interesting for $47 plus postage from south Korea Mamiya KL 180mm f4.5 for RB67 SD http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mamiya-KL...935921?hash=item41b6835a71:g:fREAAOSwXeJYEgUL ...h'mm never heard of "KL"
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Photo.net

Andrew C , May 01, 2000; 01:30 a.m.

Dave,

I have a sheet here that I got from a Mamiya rep a couple of years ago entitled "Factory Lens Designation Codes".

According to this sheet, the letters "KL" are lens mount codes and mean that the lens fits the RB67/RB67 Pro-S (that's the "K") and also the RB67 Pro SD (that's the "L"). The "C" designation is the "Design Improvement Code", and "C" is the latest design improvement that this sheet shows (except for "N" which I believe only applies to the 645 lenses and means "new barrel design").

Therefore, it seems that the real difference between the 127mm C and the KL 127mm is that the latter fits all models of the RB67 while the former only fits the older models. Logically this also means any given KL lens is, by necessity, a newer lens (chronologically) than a C lens. I guess these differences might well account for the price differences you see. Personally I would not hesitate to buy a clean 127mm C lens.

Andrew Cassino
 
RaglanSurf said:
Photo.net

Andrew C , May 01, 2000; 01:30 a.m.

Dave,

I have a sheet here that I got from a Mamiya rep a couple of years ago entitled "Factory Lens Designation Codes".

According to this sheet, the letters "KL" are lens mount codes and mean that the lens fits the RB67/RB67 Pro-S (that's the "K") and also the RB67 Pro SD (that's the "L"). The "C" designation is the "Design Improvement Code", and "C" is the latest design improvement that this sheet shows (except for "N" which I believe only applies to the 645 lenses and means "new barrel design").

Therefore, it seems that the real difference between the 127mm C and the KL 127mm is that the latter fits all models of the RB67 while the former only fits the older models. Logically this also means any given KL lens is, by necessity, a newer lens (chronologically) than a C lens. I guess these differences might well account for the price differences you see. Personally I would not hesitate to buy a clean 127mm C lens.

Andrew Cassino
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h'mm compared to the 180mm C, the 180mm KL looks like something on an extension tube. o_O
 
Both of my main RB lenses are K/L not really noticed any difference except they're an extra letter better so much sharper ;). I think 65 K/L is less flare prone than the C I had previously but not much. I don't think they made a 50 K/L and tbh I've not used the 50mm in 18 months.
 
If you're looking for another I got the 65mm K/L attached to a RB67 Pro SD from Korea shipped and imported for less than the same lens from a UK seller by the time I sold my Pro S.
 
steveo_mcg said:
If you're looking for another I got the 65mm K/L attached to a RB67 Pro SD from Korea shipped and imported for less than the same lens from a UK seller by the time I sold my Pro S.
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Well Steven I'm thinking less of spending out for my 180mm or getting another one as the good old days when people wanted portrait shots, taken by me, are gone..nowadays it's all selfies and my 10 year old grandaughter only wants me to hold her mobile while I take a video of her dancing etc. :(
 
Get yourself a couple of screwdrivers and a bottle of lighter fluid and clean the blades yourself Brian. So long as you take loads of pictures as you go along you can generally get everything back together. Any leftover screws can always go in a tin for the next project ;0)
 
stevelmx5 said:
Get yourself a couple of screwdrivers and a bottle of lighter fluid and clean the blades yourself Brian. So long as you take loads of pictures as you go along you can generally get everything back together. Any leftover screws can always go in a tin for the next project ;0)
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Well Steve you might have solved it :hug: for a while. You can see one side of the blades at the back on the 180mm and they look as new so didn't think of using a cotton bud and lighter fuel...so I carefully wiped the blades (no dirt showing on the cotton bud ) and it worked....well lets hope when the lighter fuel evaporates completely it still works..I'll remember you in my will.
 
excalibur2 said:
Well Steve you might have solved it :hug: for a while. You can see one side of the blades at the back on the 180mm and they look as new so didn't think of using a cotton bud and lighter fuel...so I carefully wiped the blades (no dirt showing on the cotton bud ) and it worked....well lets hope when the lighter fuel evaporates completely it still works..I'll remember you in my will.
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As I feared once the lighter fluid eventually evaporated it's gone back to the problem..if I'd known it was the iris maybe if I just told Miles that I don't want a complete service but just the blades cleaned...he might have done it cheaper.
 
excalibur2 said:
As I feared once the lighter fluid eventually evaporated it's gone back to the problem..if I'd known it was the iris maybe if I just told Miles that I don't want a complete service but just the blades cleaned...he might have done it cheaper.
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TBH Brian, by the time you've paid for shipping there and back you may as well get a proper service.
 
RaglanSurf said:
TBH Brian, by the time you've paid for shipping there and back you may as well get a proper service.
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Well true Nick if I bought it at the bootie for a fiver and the glass needed cleaning and the shutter speed were all over the place etc, but I bought it new about 30 years ago and is nearly as new condition now and never been over worked and everything works perfectly except for the sticky iris. But I suppose Miles has his repuation to think of and wont fix just the iris without checking everything else for cleaning etc...for his guarantee.
 
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I understand your reluctance to pay Miles if you think it's more than you want to pay but that just leaves the DIY option. Realistically, all lenses contain the same basic combination of screws/shims. So long as you take your time, take pictures as you go and work with either a towel or kitchen roll below you so small pieces don't ping all over the place you'll be fine. Definitely take pictures of the aperture blades so you can get them back in order afterwards!
 
stevelmx5 said:
I understand your reluctance to pay Miles if you think it's more than you want to pay but that just leaves the DIY option. Realistically, all lenses contain the same basic combination of screws/shims. So long as you take your time, take pictures as you go and work with either a towel or kitchen roll below you so small pieces don't ping all over the place you'll be fine. Definitely take pictures of the aperture blades so you can get them back in order afterwards!
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Thanks Steve..I don't mind having a go at the lenses from the bootie, but for me the blades can be tricky to take apart to clean and reassemble (if that's the problem).....but for Miles it should be simple as there is no glass elements in the way to unscrew to get at the blades and if he charges £40 per hour I'd rather he didn't spend the time on checking shutter speeds and wiping a few dust spots off the elements and just do the blades....which should be cheaper than £50 (charge for service).
 
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