Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Malfis said:
I think @RedRobin is waiting for his MC-20 so might be interested in a couple of images I took today with the 300mm f4 and the MC-20.
Both images are cropped - The Egyptian Geese were about 200 yards away, and the Stock Dove about 60 yards or so.
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.... Indeed I am waiting for my MC-20 (from HDEW) so your examples do interest me - Thank you very much, much appreciated.

I think that as with all lenses and camera gear, we have to always accept that there will be limitations and then to work within them. The MC-14 hasn't disappointed me on anything so far but I don't push it too long distance. We need that Olympus 150-400mm+1.25x F/4.5 PRO don't we!! Good Luck anyone trying to lock onto the target with a MC-20 mounted on that, even on a tripod!
 
Just out of interest does anyone know the sensor scan/readout time for the EM1-II and EM1x for the electronic shutter?
 
At the moment I’m starting to wonder which lens to use I have the PL 100-400 which although has the range I.e 800mm eqv. But is Lens I.s only ..Or the 50-200swd +1.4 tc which gives 283mm eqv with a larger start aperture and is incredibly sharp it weighs a shade more than the PL but utilises the full body ibis of the camera .... and in my view the raw files will take a bit more enlarging and retaining of detail ... Give it a full test hopefully tomorrow
 
RedRobin said:
.... A chain is only as strong as its weakest link and as my personal photographic needs are for maximum possible weathersealing this is one of the reasons I bought a M1X and only Olympus PRO lenses. Hence my current interest in the ED 12-40mm F/2.8 PRO to cover that focal length range rather than the doubtless smaller and lighter rumoured 12-45mm F/4 non-PRO spec.

Each one of us here has either greatly or slightly different photographic needs according to what we like to shoot and whatever we buy, no camera or lens is absolutely perfect!
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Robin
My E-M1 and 12-40 never skipped a beat when I got them a little wet at Niagara heading into the horseshoe falls a little sit in the sun and they were dry

Close-to-the-horseshoe by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
the black fox said:
At the moment I’m starting to wonder which lens to use I have the PL 100-400 which although has the range I.e 800mm eqv. But is Lens I.s only ..Or the 50-200swd +1.4 tc which gives 283mm eqv with a larger start aperture and is incredibly sharp it weighs a shade more than the PL but utilises the full body ibis of the camera .... and in my view the raw files will take a bit more enlarging and retaining of detail ... Give it a full test hopefully tomorrow
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Surely it’s 280mm m4/3 , so 560mm eq?
 
snerkler said:
Surely it’s 280mm m4/3 , so 560mm eq?
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That’s according to the maths Toby... I quoted the actual figure that it gives in Lightroom I.e 283mm
 
the black fox said:
That’s according to the maths Toby... I quoted the actual figure that it gives in Lightroom I.e 283mm
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Sorry was just clarifying as normally when folk say eqv they’re referring to the 35mm fov (y)
 
GyRob said:
ISS This was with the OMD MK II I think the lens was a ef 600f4 mkII with a metabones ultra EF to MFT the exif data is unclear as it says 600 mm f 5.6 so it could have been around 1680 mm fov 1/1600 f 5.6 ISO 640 the hard part is keeping up with it while doing manual focus but it can be done .
Rob.

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That's very impressive - I used to get emails from NASA when the ISS was expected to be visible.
It's quite something to be able to see a spaceship with the naked eye but it does nip along, so getting a shot that clear is quite something.
Very cool.
 
snerkler said:
Sorry was just clarifying as normally when folk say eqv they’re referring to the 35mm fov (y)
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.... Yes, in discussions I think the convention of what 'equivalent' translates to is well established as being equivalent to how it is in 35mm-full-frame-speak and not in Lightroom or any other editor. Capture One for example also gives the m4/3 focal length as determined by the lens manufacturer and hence the transferred metadata.

It's similar to how photographers don't usually factor in a body crop sensor's ratio in discussion, especially as it is often different between brands. It's done in an effort to all be speaking the same language.

Coming from the world of 35mm I am still having to translate m4/3 focal lengths to get a sense of what's happening. 12mm? Isn't that a fish-eye lens? < Nope, it's m4/3 lingo for a 24mm wide-angle lens.
 
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RedRobin said:
.... Yes, in discussions I think the convention of what 'equivalent' translates to is well established as being equivalent to how it is in 35mm-full-frame-speak and not in Lightroom or any other editor. Capture One for example also gives the m4/3 focal length as determined by the lens manufacturer and hence the transferred metadata.

It's similar to how photographers don't usually factor in a body crop sensor's ratio in discussion, especially as it is often different between brands. It's done in an effort to all be speaking the same language.

Coming from the world of 35mm I am still having to translate m4/3 focal lengths to get a sense of what's happening. 12mm? Isn't that a fish-eye lens? < Nope, it's m4/3 lingo for a 24mm wide-angle lens.
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Remember that m4/3 is full frame as the lenses are designed for the sensor size not a bigger one.
 
jerry12953 said:
Hi,

I see he recommends the base ISO 200; I managed to get my ISO down to 100. it's called L100 in the menu. Is there any disdvantage in using this setting?
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Apparently it can clip the highlights but it's my go to ISO if the light's good enough to get the noise as low as possible.
 
GreenNinja67 said:
Apparently it can clip the highlights but it's my go to ISO if the light's good enough to get the noise as low as possible.
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So for minimum noise one should use L100, not 200. Strange idea really......!

I don't actually have a manual for the camera as it comes without one! But I'll have a look online.
 
jerry12953 said:
Hi,

I see he recommends the base ISO 200; I managed to get my ISO down to 100. it's called L100 in the menu. Is there any disdvantage in using this setting?
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I've never actually investigated this myself but TBH I take Robin's word.
He used to work for Olympus and started promoting them as an unpaid side line, then they made him an ambassador before he moved on to independent blogging.
He's pretty clear in this recent article on Dynamic Range

https://robinwong.blogspot.com/2019/09/optimizing-dynamic-range-for-olympus-om.html

Robin Wong said:
1. USE ISO200

ISO200 is the base ISO for all current Olympus OM-D models. Moving away from ISO200, either lower or higher, will result in loss of dynamic range. There are ISO L100 and L64, both artificial ISO numbers, faked by overexposing images shot with ISO200 and software processed to emulate the look or equivalent ISO100 and 64. Since they were overexposed by more than a stop in the first place, we already lose that much dynamic range advantage. Similarly, the higher the ISO number, the more dynamic range we lose. For optimum results, just stick to ISO200 or as close to it as possible.
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jerry12953 said:
So for minimum noise one should use L100, not 200. Strange idea really......!

I don't actually have a manual for the camera as it comes without one! But I'll have a look online.
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It's a bit of a strange one as normally the best performance should be at base, but tests online have shown that the low ISO 'modes' produce less noise. I'm not sure exactly how though as low ISO modes are software 'hacks' kinda after the images has been taken I believe. What I mean is the image is still shot at base ISO but then the processing afterwards give you an image that's a stop or two lower. My guess is that they expose at base and then the software decreases exposure (as you would in PP) which is why you get reduced DR.
 
Box Brownie said:
Manuals download page for you ;)

https://cs.olympus-imaging.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/manual/pen.cfm#body
Note ~ different variant manuals for the E-M1 mk2 depending on the firmware version in use!

HTH :)
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Thanks, Box. I do have access to an online manual but I desperately need a paper copy that I can take out into the field with me. It's amazing how the most basic questions come up when you're using a new camera for the first time. In my case, so far -

1. How to engage autofocus, and
2. How to format the card!

I've contacted Olympus so we'll have to see what happens. I'm sure the body I hired a few weeks ago came with a paper manual.
 
jerry12953 said:
Thanks, Box. I do have access to an online manual but I desperately need a paper copy that I can take out into the field with me. It's amazing how the most basic questions come up when you're using a new camera for the first time. In my case, so far -

1. How to engage autofocus, and
2. How to format the card!

I've contacted Olympus so we'll have to see what happens. I'm sure the body I hired a few weeks ago came with a paper manual.
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I got a printed manual (version 1) from the official UK supplier.........give me a few mins and I will check as I am sure it was stamped on the cover.

@jerry12953 as promised:-
FWIW Olympus do not supply printed manuals (in common with too many equipment makers :( ) but when I enquired was told they use this authorised service supplier in the UK and I note they now list the firmware v3 one here
https://www.camera-manual.com/model/olympus-om-d-e-m1-mk-2-v3-camera-manual-29966

HTH:)

PS as an aide memoire I sometimes print out some pages to put in the camera bag/pocket ;)
 
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AMcUK said:
I've never actually investigated this myself but TBH I take Robin's word.
He used to work for Olympus and started promoting them as an unpaid side line, then they made him an ambassador before he moved on to independent blogging.
He's pretty clear in this recent article on Dynamic Range

https://robinwong.blogspot.com/2019/09/optimizing-dynamic-range-for-olympus-om.html
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Thanks a lot for posting that. Robin certainly explains it very clearly. (Although I thought you meant Red Robin at first......:))
 
jerry12953 said:
Thanks, Box. I do have access to an online manual but I desperately need a paper copy that I can take out into the field with me. It's amazing how the most basic questions come up when you're using a new camera for the first time. In my case, so far -

1. How to engage autofocus, and
2. How to format the card!

I've contacted Olympus so we'll have to see what happens. I'm sure the body I hired a few weeks ago came with a paper manual.
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I'm pretty sure I got a printed manual with mine. All my boxes are up in the loft now though.
 
Box Brownie said:
I got a printed manual (version 1) from the official UK supplier.........give me a few mins and I will check as I am sure it was stamped on the cover.

@jerry12953 as promised:-
FWIW Olympus do not supply printed manuals (in common with too many equipment makers :( ) but when I enquired was told they use this authorised service supplier in the UK and I note they now list the firmware v3 one here
https://www.camera-manual.com/model/olympus-om-d-e-m1-mk-2-v3-camera-manual-29966

HTH:)
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Excuse me while I fall over backwards at the cost of a bl***in' manual......... and the postage is "only" £2.60!:mad:
 
jerry12953 said:
Excuse me while I fall over backwards at the cost of a bl***in' manual......... and the postage is "only" £2.60!:mad:
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Yup, as mentioned it annoys me that printed manuals, in regard to the manufacturer, have gone the way of the Dodo. I think my brother ended up buying a third party camera usage guide!

PS bear in mind the manual is a 300 odd page A5'ish tome!
 
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Box Brownie said:
Yup, as mentioned it annoys me that printed manuals, in regard to the manufacturer, have gone the way of the Dodo. I think my brother ended up buying a third party camera usage guide!

PS bear in mind the manual is a 300 odd page A5'ish tome!
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Same as you can’t get printed brochures for a lot of cars etc these days :(
 
AMcUK said:
I've never actually investigated this myself but TBH I take Robin's word.
He used to work for Olympus and started promoting them as an unpaid side line, then they made him an ambassador before he moved on to independent blogging.
He's pretty clear in this recent article on Dynamic Range

https://robinwong.blogspot.com/2019/09/optimizing-dynamic-range-for-olympus-om.html
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.... I have just read his blog and advice but as a wildlife photographer shooting constantly moving subjects in constantly changing lighting conditions, his tips seem utterly impractical! Or am I missing something here?

Setting ISO 200 in most wildlife environments, especially in the UK, is guaranteed to severely compromise shutter speed and also be beyond the widest selectable aperture. I struggle to stay under ISO 1600 in most situations and often need shutter speeds of at least 1/800s and the lenses with 1.4x mounted for very necessary reach don't offer wider than F/5.6.

Furthermore, there simply isn't time to start inspecting and adjusting curves for shadows and highlights onboard camera while shooting wildlife - You have absolutely no control over their actions, they are not professional models hired from an agency. Neither are wildlife subjects studio still life subjects. Sorry but none of what he is saying makes any sense regarding wildlife shooting.

Personally I hate the flashing highlights/shadows warnings in the viewfinder and I quickly disabled them as they are a major distraction.
 
RedRobin said:
.... I have just read his blog and advice but as a wildlife photographer shooting constantly moving subjects in constantly changing lighting conditions, his tips seem utterly impractical! Or am I missing something here?

Setting ISO 200 in most wildlife environments, especially in the UK, is guaranteed to severely compromise shutter speed and also be beyond the widest selectable aperture. I struggle to stay under ISO 1600 in most situations and often need shutter speeds of at least 1/800s and the lenses with 1.4x mounted for very necessary reach don't offer wider than F/5.6.

Furthermore, there simply isn't time to start inspecting and adjusting curves for shadows and highlights onboard camera while shooting wildlife - You have absolutely no control over their actions, they are not professional models hired from an agency. Neither are wildlife subjects studio still life subjects. Sorry but none of what he is saying makes any sense regarding wildlife shooting.

Personally I hate the flashing highlights/shadows warnings in the viewfinder and I quickly disabled them as they are a major distraction.
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I haven’t read it but I’d be surprised if he’s recommended those settings for sports/wildlife?
 
snerkler said:
Same as you can’t get printed brochures for a lot of cars etc these days :(
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.... All I needed was Jeremy Clarkson's review, a full day test drive and the car was ordered to be built and arrive 3 months later. Forget marketing brochures, a test drive is the only way to go. I did get a leatherbound handbook with the car though.

Sorry, I digress off topic :exit: < 0-60 in what!!?
 
snerkler said:
I haven’t read it but I’d be surprised if he’s recommended those settings for sports/wildlife?
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.... He didn't mention sports or wildlife at all in the blog linked from here but his statement that the Olympus dynamic range is compromised either below or above ISO 200 surely applies irrespective of the subjects being photographed.

I could shoot all day long at ISO 6400 on my Canon 1DX-2 and generally not be too concerned about noise killing an image. I'm not expecting that on the M1X but am alarmed by his ISO 200 statement. Those ISO 1600 and ISO 1000 Goldfinch images I posted were well liked here and I was happy with them too.
 
RedRobin said:
.... He didn't mention sports or wildlife at all in the blog linked from here but his statement that the Olympus dynamic range is compromised either below or above ISO 200 surely applies irrespective of the subjects being photographed.

.
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That’s true of any camera though. As soon as you move away from base ISO then DR will reduce.
 
RedRobin said:
.... All I needed was Jeremy Clarkson's review, a full day test drive and the car was ordered to be built and arrive 3 months later. Forget marketing brochures, a test drive is the only way to go. I did get a leatherbound handbook with the car though.

Sorry, I digress off topic :exit: < 0-60 in what!!?
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I always take a test drive but it’s also nice to see spec, extras, accessories etc etc on printed paper (y)
 
I have mine set at this moment in time (subject to change) at a start of iso200 with a upper limit of iso6400 and a minimum shutter speed of 1/500th sec .. not sure that that shutter speed is high enough in reality . the one thing that I'm really going to have to do though is stop myself from taking stuff that's to distant as that is spoiling a lot of stuff ..these sensors need filling with detail to be valid .. here's one from today large crop and just about retained enough detail . also need to use the tripod and gimbal more
stretch by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
RedRobin said:
.... He didn't mention sports or wildlife at all in the blog linked from here but his statement that the Olympus dynamic range is compromised either below or above ISO 200 surely applies irrespective of the subjects being photographed.
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.... I have now found this on Robin Wong's blog pages about high ISO :

https://robinwong.blogspot.com/2019/09/dealing-with-high-iso-shooting-on.html

This applies much more to subjects like wildlife where you very rarely get to shoot at ISO 200. I think I have managed to get as low as ISO 400 on the M1X but only on a couple of occasions.
 
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With regards to a manual is there a pdf you could download and read offline on a phone or tablet?
 
tijuana taxi said:
With regards to a manual is there a pdf you could download and read offline on a phone or tablet?
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Yes, just google Olympus EM1 Mark II or EM1x etc manual pdf. You can get them from the Olympus support page but quicker and easier to google.
 
snerkler said:
Yes, just google Olympus EM1 Mark II or EM1x etc manual pdf. You can get them from the Olympus support page but quicker and easier to google.
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Good, that should help those out above who wanted something to take out with them,
 
GyRob said:
ISS This was with the OMD MK II I think the lens was a ef 600f4 mkII with a metabones ultra EF to MFT the exif data is unclear as it says 600 mm f 5.6 so it could have been around 1680 mm fov 1/1600 f 5.6 ISO 640 the hard part is keeping up with it while doing manual focus but it can be done .
Rob.

View attachment 261889
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If that is the ISS, that is stunning!

If it is a Star Wars X Fighter, it is amazing.
 
the black fox said:
I have mine set at this moment in time (subject to change) at a start of iso200 with a upper limit of iso6400 and a minimum shutter speed of 1/500th sec .. not sure that that shutter speed is high enough in reality . the one thing that I'm really going to have to do though is stop myself from taking stuff that's to distant as that is spoiling a lot of stuff ..these sensors need filling with detail to be valid .. here's one from today large crop and just about retained enough detail . also need to use the tripod and gimbal more
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.... I have my Auto ISO at the recommended ISO 200 lowest too but an upper limit currently set at ISO 1600 and it's very easy to use the ISO button to change values on the fly while shooting. I shoot Manual-mode RAW and watch the histogram as a guide. I'm happy to shoot at very low shutter speeds sometimes such as 1/250s but it depends on the subject's action.

I too am learning when not to bother taking a shot because it's too distant. Bring on that ED 150-400mm+1.25x PRO!!! I have kept my monopod in readiness!

Jeff, a very good gimbal head for lightweights such as these Olympus toys ;):ROFLMAO: is the Jobu Jr3 Deluxe - It's the smallest on the market but very strong. I use mine most on a Skimmer in hides and in my Kitchen Hide.

Otherwise I use a Gitzo Traveller + Flexline (same as our mutual friend Andy Rouse).

http://www.jobudesign.co.uk/BWG-J3KDLX-Jr.3-Deluxe-Kit-(with-HMJ3D-upgrade)
 
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An article in this week's AP about a wildlife photographer who now uses an EM1X

Thought it one of those "advertorials" for a minute or two, hard to distinguish at times
 
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