and please use their services
Testing my OM1.
- Thread starter toadstool
- Start date
Right here's the best photo I can do with my only digital camera (my phone)
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So the brown wire goes to the battery tag, as I'm sure you probably guessed. There should be enough slack in that wire to strip a couple of mm of insulation off the end and resolder it.
Most places now sell lead free solder which is no damn good - it's too hard to melt. It was never meant to be used for repair work, just mass production flow soldering. What you need is 60/40 solder multicore. It's sold on ebay.
You mention college; if they have an electronics dept, ask them if they can help out with the repair, if you are not happy about soldering it yourself.
If you do solder it yourself, clean everything up first and tin the wire as well.
So the brown wire goes to the battery tag, as I'm sure you probably guessed. There should be enough slack in that wire to strip a couple of mm of insulation off the end and resolder it.
Most places now sell lead free solder which is no damn good - it's too hard to melt. It was never meant to be used for repair work, just mass production flow soldering. What you need is 60/40 solder multicore. It's sold on ebay.
You mention college; if they have an electronics dept, ask them if they can help out with the repair, if you are not happy about soldering it yourself.
If you do solder it yourself, clean everything up first and tin the wire as well.
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It doesn't really need camera technician specialist skills. Anyone who is handy with a soldering iron could do it. You just need to tell them "join that wire to that, please" A local TV/radio repair man/woman would be ideal. I don't know if such people exist anymore in this throwaway age. Perhaps try Yellow Pages? Good luck.
Just joined this site and as someone who possesses quite a large collection of film cameras, from LF to 35mm, I would like to ask a quick question about the OM1. The DIY battery conversion that is on the web had a diode soldered in to the holder to adjust the voltage. Can that just be soldered on to the brown wire whilst the bottom is off or is it not that simple?
Apologies if I should have started a new thread.
The light seal doesn't take long to replace and is well worth doing. The hardest part is getting all of the old gunky stuff off and to do this I used lighter fluid which works a treat.
The OM1 is a terrific camera and some of the lenses available are just superb.
Apologies if I should have started a new thread.
The light seal doesn't take long to replace and is well worth doing. The hardest part is getting all of the old gunky stuff off and to do this I used lighter fluid which works a treat.
The OM1 is a terrific camera and some of the lenses available are just superb.
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Hi Lee, Welcome to the best bit of TP. Unfortunately, I have no idea where you should solder the diode but I'm pretty sure there will be somebody along fairly soon that will know
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Nice collection Lee! I'd recommend starting a thread, I'm not sure how many of the people who helped me out are still reading! You might get a faster reply
I've got replacement light seals on the way
How do you find the trip? I put a test roll through mine and it appears to work but the photos were awful. Purely user error though, I bet!
I've got replacement light seals on the way
How do you find the trip? I put a test roll through mine and it appears to work but the photos were awful. Purely user error though, I bet!
I can't see that it makes any difference where in the battery circuit you decide to drop the over voltage using the Schottky diode.
John Hermanson, who seems to be the repair expert of choice in the US, recommends a 1N6263 diode. Presumably he has measured the typical current drain and matched this to the voltage drop required. I see that Farnell, element 14 sell these diodes at about £1 for 5.
If I didn't have an MR9 adapter in my OM1, I would have no hesitation about soldering a diode between the brown wire and the terminal, as there looks to be plenty of room. Note that the tag is the negative terminal and should be connected to the diode's cathode, as the diode needs to be forward biased.
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A 28mm lens is next for my FTb.
I'm really eager to put a roll through my OM1 but don't want to get a roll of nothing back :\ I guess I'm not gonna find out if everything is a-ok otherwise so I guess I'll just suck it up and do it!
will put a roll in tonight and just shoot off the lot tomorrow.
I'm really eager to put a roll through my OM1 but don't want to get a roll of nothing back :\ I guess I'm not gonna find out if everything is a-ok otherwise so I guess I'll just suck it up and do it!
will put a roll in tonight and just shoot off the lot tomorrow.
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A 28mm lens is next for my FTb.
I'm really eager to put a roll through my OM1 but don't want to get a roll of nothing back :\ I guess I'm not gonna find out if everything is a-ok otherwise so I guess I'll just suck it up and do it!
will put a roll in tonight and just shoot off the lot tomorrow.
Now why do you think you may get a blank?
If the shutter curtain opens and closes on command and if the length of exposure "sounds" similar in duration toy other cameras you know to work, even if you have doubts about the lightmeter, it's going to go.
Get on with it man, shove a £1land roll in, get it dev'd and show us the results!!
