I've made some changes since
my last post here in September last year.
The cameras
I am still using the Panasonic FZ330 and achromats for flash-based work with invertebrates. For natural light botanical work, and natural light images of larger insects such as dragonflies, butterflies and damselflies (on the rare occasions I see any of these) I have dropped the Canon 70D with 55-250 lens (with and without an achromat) and now use a Panasonic G80 with 45-175 lens (with and without an achromat). I would also use this setup for long exposure still air tripod shots, but I haven't done any of those yet this year - the only time I did them previously was around dawn when the air was completely still, and I haven't done any sessions at that time of day this year.
1205 01 FZ330 and G80 by
gardenersassistant, on Flickr
The G80 with 45-175 (90 to 350 full frame equivalent) covers roughly the same scenes as the 70D with 55-250 (around 90 to 400 equivalent). The G80 has a 4:3 aspect ratio as against the 3:2 for the 70D, but the difference favours one or the other depending on the shot so that pretty much evens out. On the other hand the G80 is significantly smaller than than the 70D, and much lighter (720 grams with 45-175 and battery compared to 1150 grams for the 70D, 55-250 and battery).
1205 02 Comparing the size of 70D with 55-250 with G80 with 45-175 by
gardenersassistant, on Flickr
I find I get a greater proportion of sharp images with the G80. This may be some combination of better (more reliable, faster) autofocusing using the LCD screen (which I almost always use) and better image stabilisation (the G80 has in-body image stabilisation, IBIS, which works together with the lens image stabilisation, IS, whereas the 70D only has IS).
I used the G3 (and later the G5) for botanical work in preference to my bridge cameras because I preferred the rendition of light, colours and textures. When I got the 70D I felt it did a bit better again, although the improvement was less clear cut. With the G80 I have the impression that I'm getting at least as good as with the 70D in terms of image quality for my botanical subjects.
Unlike the 70D, the G80 doesn't have an anti-aliasing filter, and this may help with capturing fine detail, but for botanical work I find that much less of an issue than with invertebrates, so I don't think that is a key factor.
The close-up lenses uses for flash work
In the previous post I showed my achromats, each with its own diffuser.
0975 21 The close-up lenses and their concave diffusers by
gardenersassistant, on Flickr
As before with the 70D, I generally only use the low power Canon 500D achromat with the G80 (or no achromat at all).
With the FZ330 I have simplified the way I use achromats. The issue I found was that changing achromats was quite fiddly, because I had to detach the diffuser from the close-up lens, put away the diffuser, unscrew the lens, put away the lens, get out and screw on the different achromat and get out and fit the different diffuser to the close-up lens.
I now leave a Raynox 150 attached to the FZ330 the whole time, and leave the Raynox 150 diffuser attached to it (and also attached to the focusing lamp so as to keep the diffuser from flopping down). When I want more magnification I get out a second Raynox 150 or a Raynox 250 and screw it on to the Raynox 150 which is already on the camera. I don't have to fiddle with the diffuser. It turns out that this gives me enough magnification for what I currently want to do (and this includes globular springtails and mites), and rather surprisingly the large Raynox 150 diffuser doesn't, for the most part, get in the way despite the shorter working distances that come with the extra magnification. This approach has made changing achromats much easier and faster.
Flash head diffusers
I'm still using the Venus Optics KX800 twin flash and there has been no change in the diffusion arrangements since the previous post.
0975 22 Flash head diffuser by
gardenersassistant, on Flickr
Each diffuser has three layers, two of "plastic paper" and one of expanded polystyrene. They attach to the flash heads with velcro.
FZ330 setup
Here is the FZ330 with the baseline setup with the Raynox 150 and the largest of the concave diffusers.
1205 03 FZ330 with Raynox 150 by
gardenersassistant, on Flickr
The diffuser is attached to the Raynox 150 using velcro. To stop the diffuser waving around in the breeze and/or flopping down in front of the lens the diffuser is supported by the KX800 focusing lamp using a strip of velcro. The slack in the support lets the concave diffuser move as the camera lens moves in and out.
The focusing light lets me use these setups at night, and can also help the autofocusing work in poor daytime light/in shade.
KX800 flexible arm arrangement
0975 24 Concave diffuser and flexible arm arrangements by
gardenersassistant, on Flickr
On the left one of the flash heads has been moved out of the way for this shot, and it is in the sort of position that can be used to illuminate dark backgrounds while the other head is used to illuminate the subject. I am doing this a lot more now.
As shown on the right, the arms are crossed over as it turns out this is the best configuration to get the heads into a suitable position and adjust them without stressing the wiring that runs through the flexible arms.
LCD hoods
I have made LCD hoods of the same design as before for my other cameras, these made out of black paper, which is very light. I now keep an LCD hood permanently attached to the G80 and FZ330 so I don't have to fiddle around taking LCD hoods on and off. It turns out that I can carry around the G80 in my backpack with the LCD hood still attached. (The FZ330 never goes in the bag because of the KX800 flash being permanently attached to it.)
1205 04 LCD hoods by
gardenersassistant, on Flickr
Batteries
I previously used two boxes for batteries, one for camera batteries and one for flash batteries. The G80 and the FZ330 use the same batteries so I can now use just one box for both camera and flash batteries.
The rest of the kit
1205 05 The rest of the kit by
gardenersassistant, on Flickr
Differences here include the lack of steadying sticks. I did use them a few times around the time of my previous post, but I haven't used them since then. I really think I should try again, especially with the smaller subjects that I'm shooting more of now.
The wellington boots have been replaced by safety boots. They have very deep treads which give great grip on the (sometimes muddy) slopes that I've been working on recently. The other major change is the trousers. They have (replaceable) knee pads. This is a huge improvement over the separate knee pads that I wore previously and would continuously fall down/off. The trousers also have a remarkable number of pockets. I use these to carry around a spare camera battery and a set of flash batteries so I can change them without having to put the camera down, delve around in the bag, open boxes etc. This makes battery changes much faster which has proved very useful. The "pouch" pockets hanging just under the belt are big enough for the boxes I keep my achromats in, so I typically carry around a second Raynox 150 in one of them so I can quickly add and remove a second 150 to get more magnification for small subjects.