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Could that be why he's using the extra diffusers?I can't find any video tutorials which explain how you reduce the lighting power in both heads -
You can set power in camera if using ttl or on the flash in manual turning the dials accordingly. We differ in the fact that although l have more then 1 camera I tend to go out with just one to do a certain type of photography. I did the carrying of truck loads of heavy Canon gear around when l was younger but now try to be a bit more targeted in what l do due to my aching ageing joints..... Much as I really like your macro photography of live insects Alby, I am not a fan of the homemade diffusers which so many photographers use. For my work which is handheld on walkabout it simply isn't practical as I am also carrying a second body with a telephoto lens mounted - Both camera combos being on Peak Design straps across the chest and always at the ready for a wide variety of wildlife.
So may I ask why you are using extra diffusers on your STF-8 please?
I can see the advantage of adding the mini ballheads - Where did you get them please?
I am inexperienced at any flash photography and bought the STF-8 because I thought it would be very simple to use and because it is so weatherproof but I can't find any video tutorials which explain how you reduce the lighting power in both heads - I have been shooting in TTL mode so far. Any help/advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Robin
You can set power in camera if using ttl or on the flash in manual turning the dials accordingly. We differ in the fact that although l have more then 1 camera I tend to go out with just one to do a certain type of photography. I did the carrying of truck loads of heavy Canon gear around when l was younger but now try to be a bit more targeted in what l do due to my aching ageing joints.
I tend to use ttl more these days and when in ttl mode switching the flip switch on the back of the camera and pressing the AF button on the left top brings up the flash compensation screen. Plenty of practice and finding a setup that suits you best. Hope this helps in some way.
Oh yeah the extra diffusion is to soften and flatten the light even more, the setup isn't ideal at the moment but l ran out of glue sticks to make a better diffuser so when l get the new ones done l will post them up on here.
I just got off e-bay cheap and cheerful although they are metal. I have had them for years. like you l live in the South Downs in a rural hamlet so have countryside and farmland all around me. We are privileged aren't we? I will try and find the exact ball heads went l return from my dog walk. It is amazing what lens lengths you can handhold with the Olympus system isn't it.
Just found them before l go out Robin. I got two of these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Camera-T...041567?hash=item56d5cb0cdf:g:ODIAAOSwHCNeRkcM
My STF-8 diffusion is very similar to Alby's but I do not have those ball heads I have now ordered some. I finding switching between adaptor rings a pain I would like two new joints as they are called in the manual part number MJ-1
https://download.aws.olympus.eu/consumer/manuals/cameras/STF-8_MANUAL_MULTI.pdf
I use my flash in manual I find the TTL just takes too long and I am missing too many shots. I will photograph my latest rig tomorrow and post it
I am fancying the Laowa 65mm f2.8 APSC lens
https://www.laowalens.co.uk/laowa-65mm-2x-ultra-macro-sony.html
I use a 58 to 62mm step up filter ring to adapt my STF-8 to my Sigma 105 f2.8..... Hi Alf,
I phoned and asked Olympus Support UK if I could buy a pair of STF-8 'Joints' before the lockdown but Olympus don't sell them separately but they did say they would pass the feedback on to Olympus HQ in Japan.
If only Laowa offered an Olympus mount macro! I am utterly fed up with my Olympus 60mm Macro due to focussing trickery - I lose so many shots which I then easily grab on my TG-6!! It's even easier to shoot close-ups on my Olympus 300mm + MC-14!
I think I am selling my 60mm f2.8 to get a Laowa lens at some point.
For now I will stick with the Sigma.
I use a 58 to 62mm step up filter ring to adapt my STF-8 to my Sigma 105 f2.8.
It dawned on me that a 46 to 58 would work for swapping to the 60mm f2.8.
.... Is your Sigma a Canon or a Nikon fit?
My Sigma is an old 4/3 fit lens adapted with an Olympus MMF3 it has a set of tubes and a Raynox
Here it is with an old set up flash a basic Nissin Di466 4/3 flash fitted with a cable and bracket and homemade flash diffuser
Macro-rig-2 by Alf Branch, on Flickr
Here it is with a more basic set that works well too
EM1 sigma 105 Mk11 by Alf Branch, on Flickr
This is taken with a flash set up like the these probably the off camera version
vLarge red Damsel fly_ by Alf Branch, on Flickr
Hi ,basically I like taking pics of Hoverflies, bees , butterflies etc and I thought a simple set up like I have seen posted on here would be what I am after.
My camera is a Nikon D7200 and my lens is a Tokina 100 macro ,so I have no flash as yet and would like some recommendations for a simple to use flash for under £100, thinking more of a single flash rather that a twin set up.
Thanks
Venus optics is bringing out a Laowa 50mm macro for M4/3.I use a 58 to 62mm step up filter ring to adapt my STF-8 to my Sigma 105 f2.8.
It dawned on me that a 46 to 58 would work for swapping to the 60mm f2.8.
I think I am selling my 60mn f2.8 to get a Laowa lens at some point.
For now I will stick with the Sigma.
I use a 58 to 62mm step up filter ring to adapt my STF-8 to my Sigma 105 f2.8.
It dawned on me that a 46 to 58 would work for swapping to the 60mm f2.8.
I think I am selling my 60mn f2.8 to get a Laowa lens at some point.
For now I will stick with the Sigma.
.... Hi Alf,
As you may already know from reading my other posts, I am now shooting a combo of my Canon 100mm F/2.8L IS Macro + Kenko 1.4x + Metabones Adapter + E-M1X which gives me a much preferred 280mm equivalent focal length.
But my Canon 100mm is 67mm filter size and so I need some advice please if I am to successfully and securely mount my STF-8 Twinflash on the front of my Canon lens.
EDIT : I think my brain has finally got it! If I get a 67mm (to fit my Canon lens) to 62mm (to attach my STF-8 ring) step down ring, it should all fit! As I would be reducing the lens front by a diameter of 5mm (2.5mm all around circularly) might I expect some vignetting? But perhaps it wouldn't matter as I'm shooting a telephoto angle.
https://www.wexphotovideo.com/kenko-67-62mm-step-down-ring-1643733/
I am having difficulty working out whether I need a step up or a step down filter ring and it needs an adequate profile for the STF 'joints' to grip very securely and still be adjustable. So can you advise a source please?
The mini ballheads you previously advised have now arrived - Thanks again!
Thanks for any help.
Meanwhile, here is an example of one of my first shots on my Canon-Olympus combo, handheld, no flash :
BANDED DEMOISELLE by Robin Procter, on Flickr
I could have gone in closer but wanted to include the legs stance.
P.S.- WHEN I HAVE FINALLY SETTLED MY MACRO RIG AS DISCUSSED ABOVE, I WILL POST PICS OF IT IN THIS THREAD.
Well worth a try on the step down ring
.... The step down ring works!! At least it does physically and is all a very neat and secure fit. The Olympus designers have been very thorough by including the second thread on the front so you can add or change a filter without detaching the circular rail for the twin lights. I am leaving that rail with Hoya UV filter and twin light joints mounted on my Canon Macro so that all I have to do is mount the actual lights and hot shoe control unit.
No hint of any vignetting in camera viewfinder or screen but any vignetting would only manifest itself in the RAW file (not JPEG) after uploading to an editor. Such vignetting is very common in all extreme zoom lenses, regardless of brand, which are wide angle but with a long telephoto capability. For example a prime brand 24-105mm lens will be free of vignetting throughout its focal range but a 24-200mm, even if a prime brand, will have vignetting from about 32mm wider < Only in the RAW files and only visible after RAW conversion in your chosen software editor.
The lens manufacturers accept this as inevitable due to optical physics and will tell you to crop in post-processing as their only solution.
I'll go out later today and test my rig by shooting some minibeasts.
Remember your lens is designed for a much bigger sensor so any vignetting may not reach the sensor
My latest macro rig
My Olympus OMD E-M1ii with MMF3, Olympus EX-25 extension tube, 4/3 fit Sigma 105 f2.8 and STF-8 flash with added diffusion the filter mount is 58mm on the lens so I have to use a 58-62mm step up ring to fit the flash mount ring
Here is my M.Zuiko 60mm f2.8 fitted this time with a 46-58mm step ring to prevent the need to swap the mount ring
.... Good idea to use another step ring so you don't have to faff around swapping the mount ring and particularly the fiddly twin light 'joints'.
Why do you keep both macro lenses? Because one setup does Focus Stacking and the other doesn't? Do you carry both on walkabout in the field?
And have you given up using the mini ballheads?
That looks a weighty bit of kit Robin. How are the twin lites coping with the extra reach you have with the 100mm effective 200mm lens? Does the Metabones Adapter add or remove any magnification?My macro rig consisting of :
Olympus E-M1X + Metabones Adapter + Kenko 1.4x + Canon EF 100mm F/2.8L IS Macro + Olympus STF-8
Although shown on my tripod, as a wildlife photographer I do not take a tripod with me when hunting minibeasts but I often take a Gitzo GT2545T monopod in case it helps.
The reasons I have stopped using my Olympus 60mm F/2.8 Macro are my dislike of its over long focus ring travel and lack of weight and substance when mounted on my E-M1X. Also, I much prefer the longer reach (280mm equivalent) which my Canon lens offers.
View attachment 279946
View attachment 279950
That looks a weighty bit of kit Robin. How are the twin lites coping with the extra reach you have with the 100mm effective 200mm lens? Does the Metabones Adapter add or remove any magnification?
Looks like you are well on your way Matey, excellent job.As discussed earlier in this thread, myself and several others have given up on trying to get on with the Olympus 60mm F/2.8 Macro. It's sharpness is beyond question, as is the sharpness of the other dedicated macro lenses by the other brands. Also as already said, my solution has been to buy a used Metabones Adapter (from Wex) and then mount my Canon EF 100mm F/2.8L IS Macro on an Olympus E-M1X. My Kenko 1.4x is also mounted inline and consequently offers a maximum reach of 140mm (@280mm equivalent) which is perfect for my kind of wild minibeasts photography. So far, I shoot macro rather than micro.
I am very (totally!) inexperienced in using flash but am beginning to enjoy the help of my Olympus STF-8 when needed and it fits the Canon lens filter thread size via a Kenko step-down ring.
Here is an image example from the macro rig as described and shot with flash on :
CRANE FLY LOOKING LIKE AN ALIEN! by Robin Procter, on Flickr
The only downside (unless you are averse to size and weight!) is that in-camera Focus Bracketing/Stacking is not supported. But I always have an Olympus TG-6 Tough in my pocket and that has the stacking option. Here is an example :
RED IS MY FAVOURITE COLOUR - CARDINAL BEETLE by Robin Procter, on Flickr
The compared image quality is such that you would be forgiven for suggesting that the big Canon+Olympus macro rig isn't needed and that I could shoot all my macro work on the TG-6. Afterall, they both shoot RAW ORF files and even the processor in the TG-6 and M1X is the same. But, the lack of TG-6 viewfinder and fixed LCD LiveView screen too often restrict actually seeing and sharply focussing on minibeasts at certain angles and especially in bright sunlight due to screen reflections. Shooting on the Canon+Olympus rig offers far more control and a higher hit rate. Horses-for-Courses and no such thing as a perfect camera!
Looks like you are well on your way Matey, excellent job.
The 65mm should be fine you will need to get closer but then the Canon mpe is 65mm it goes to 5XI'm looking for some advice on lens focal length.
Currently my set up consists of a Sony 90mm macro lens usually mounted on a Sony A6000.
I also use a Raynox 250 and extension tubes totalling 26mm.
I would to get into photographing very small subjects in detail, small insects and plant anatomy for example.
I have been looking at the Laowa 65mm 2x macro lens which seems to be very highly regarded. Being a numerate numpty I'm trying to work out whether this 65mm lens will be more useful for me. I'd be grateful for some advice.
Thanks for that Alf, much to think about.The 65mm should be fine you will need to get closer but then the Canon mpe is 65mm it goes to 5X
I would have the 65mm but I cannot adapt it to m4/3
The 65mm should be fine you will need to get closer but then the Canon mpe is 65mm it goes to 5X
I would have the 65mm but I cannot adapt it to m4/3
I cannot adapt the Laowa 65mm Robin which is the lens I wanted..... Am I misunderstanding your post, Alf? A Canon EF lens can definitely be adapted to a m4/3 body with a Metabones Adapter < As you may recall, I do so very successfully with a Canon EF 100mm Macro mounting on an Olympus M1X.