Other Macro Show us your macro rig

I cannot adapt the Laowa 65mm Robin which is the lens I wanted.

.... I think Laowa offer several lens mounts including a Canon EF so I'm still not understanding why a Metabones Adapter can't connect an EF mount lens (regardless of brand) to a m4/3 body. I remember looking at the option of a Laowa Nikon mount lens to then mount on an adapter which fits m4/3.
 
I cannot adapt the Laowa 65mm Robin which is the lens I wanted.
I'm using a Sony mount Laowa 60mm on my e-m1's Alf. I did use a mp-e 65 with a commilte adapter a while ago that worked pretty well.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
.... I think Laowa offer several lens mounts including a Canon EF so I'm still not understanding why a Metabones Adapter can't connect an EF mount lens (regardless of brand) to a m4/3 body. I remember looking at the option of a Laowa Nikon mount lens to then mount on an adapter which fits m4/3.

That is true

I'm using a Sony mount Laowa 60mm on my e-m1's Alf. I did use a mp-e 65 with a commilte adapter a while ago that worked pretty well.

I know that and I know I can mount a Sony A mount lens

I would like the 65mm f2.8 APSC lens which is Sony E mount or Fuji X mount I cannot fit that so I will stick with my Sigma for now

https://www.laowalens.co.uk/laowa-65mm-2x-ultra-macro-sony.html
 
I have always been fascinated by extreme macro photographs which show detail totally hidden from the naked eye and with time on my hands during all this lockdown kerfuffle recently, I started doing a bit of research via the internet including a stack (pun intended) of YouTube videos. To cut a long story short, I decided to build my own automatic focus stacking rig based on instructions posted in a blog here: https://pulsar124.fandom.com/wiki/Fast_Stacker

Camera - I used my first DSLR, a Canon 10D attached to a reversed Canon 40mm lens along with an extension tube and a Meike reverse adapter - as described here:
View: https://youtu.be/PW-44IKD8l0


I built the rig onto a piece of A2 sized MDF which was lying around in my shed and designed a number of 3D printed parts to give me a specimen rail which enabled me to keep things in line with the camera and lens. Photographs below along with my first proper close up shot stacked using Zerene stacker.


FocusStack1.jpegIMG_1866.jpegFocusStack9.jpegFocusStack5.jpegFocusStack4.jpegFocusStack2.jpegFocusStack8.jpegIMG_1981.jpeg2020-06-09-20.28.13 ZS retouched.jpg
 
Last edited:
I built the rig onto a piece of A3 sized MDF which was lying around in my shed and designed a number of 3D printed parts to give me a specimen rail which enabled me to keep things in line with the camera and lens

Now that is amazing... I have so many things I want to make with a 3D printer but dont know anyone that has one :D
 
Now that is amazing... I have so many things I want to make with a 3D printer but dont know anyone that has one :D

I've been 3D printing for about 8 or 9 years now and am always finding things to design and make or else print from Opensource files. The rig above was great fun to make and use but I am not too sure I will get much more use out of it or what I will do with it now I have proved to myself that extreme macro is possible without having to master the mystical art of moving backwards and forwards to attain focus - my usual photography is about wildlife and cricket (similar kit for both genres).

My latest 3D printing and photography project is designing and building a case to hold a small infrared capable camera and controller board (Raspberry Pi), so that I can see what wildlife we get in our back garden at night other than neighbourhood cats!
 
Morning All,

I’m after some advice. I have really been getting into Macro photography mainly of insects/ flowers that sort of thing.
My current set up is the Oly 5 Mark3 with the 60mm macro lens.

Im look for some advice for lighting and if possible what equipment I could get to use the lighting equipment I already own, without having to spend out loads on like the STF-8.
I have two speadlight which can be used off camera.

From reading lots of things I wondered if anyone could recommend brackets for the flashes, single or twin & also a decent small LED light I could also use?
Cheers, Joe
 
Last edited:
I have only started getting seriously into macro this year largely because of the covid situation restricting access to my favourite birding spots.
I've settled on using a relatively small body too and the most useful accessory I have is undoubtedly a smallrig cage to which I have added a wooden side handle.
Whether hand held or on a monopod or tripod I can mount a flash trigger and one or two speedlights or if I wish a small LED continuous light source. I still have room for a field monitor!
Mostly I only mount the flash trigger and one small speedlight if I'm randomly walking around and using the monopod. If I'm doing something more "serious" either indoors or outdoors I will use a tripod with the field monitor which I find invaluable.
The other additions I've made have been macro rings and a Raynox close focus lens.
Sorry about the long post, I can go on a bit!
 
I have only started getting seriously into macro this year largely because of the covid situation restricting access to my favourite birding spots.
I've settled on using a relatively small body too and the most useful accessory I have is undoubtedly a smallrig cage to which I have added a wooden side handle.
Whether hand held or on a monopod or tripod I can mount a flash trigger and one or two speedlights or if I wish a small LED continuous light source. I still have room for a field monitor!
Mostly I only mount the flash trigger and one small speedlight if I'm randomly walking around and using the monopod. If I'm doing something more "serious" either indoors or outdoors I will use a tripod with the field monitor which I find invaluable.
The other additions I've made have been macro rings and a Raynox close focus lens.
Sorry about the long post, I can go on a bit!

Hi Laurence, thank you for your tips & don't apologies for the size aha its all very helpful information. I will defiantly take a look at the cages, but in regards to the LED light, could I ask which you use. I have been looking at the Manfrotto luminuce & wondered whether that sort of thing is good to give me a bit of light when taking a macro shot say in a woods?

Cheers, Joe
 
Hi Laurence, thank you for your tips & don't apologies for the size aha its all very helpful information. I will defiantly take a look at the cages, but in regards to the LED light, could I ask which you use. I have been looking at the Manfrotto luminuce & wondered whether that sort of thing is good to give me a bit of light when taking a macro shot say in a woods?

Cheers, Joe
Hi Joe, that light is called the Andoer 96 from Amazon
I do have the Manfrotto light and it's OK generally for smallish things but I wanted something a bit larger to illuminate fungi.
 
Hi Joe, that light is called the Andoer 96 from Amazon
I do have the Manfrotto light and it's OK generally for smallish things but I wanted something a bit larger to illuminate fungi.

Thank you Laurence, funnily enough I actually have a panel like the Andoer but was looking for a smaller thing for insects, so maybe I will give the Manfrotto ago.

Cheers, Joe
 
Morning All,

I’m after some advice. I have really been getting into Macro photography mainly of insects/ flowers that sort of thing.
My current set up is the Oly 5 Mark3 with the 60mm macro lens.

Im look for some advice for lighting and if possible what equipment I could get to use the lighting equipment I already own, without having to spend out loads on like the STF-8.
I have two speadlight which can be used off camera.

From reading lots of things I wondered if anyone could recommend brackets for the flashes, single or twin & also a decent small LED light I could also use?
Cheers, Joe

There is more info a page back from about post 461 onwards

The flash you have will do the job well for moving subject only one would be needed to get results on invertebrates
A good diffuser is key and is often best DIY I do not use TTL as the shots take too long and I now use an STF-8

Macro rigg E M5II by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Here is something with the same flash set using my E-M1 and Sigma 105

Prepare to be eaten by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Here is one with my Nissin i40 E-M511 and 60mm f2.8

Dragon fly by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
There is more info a page back from about post 461 onwards

The flash you have will do the job well for moving subject only one would be needed to get results on invertebrates
A good diffuser is key and is often best DIY I do not use TTL as the shots take too long and I now use an STF-8

Macro rigg E M5II by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Here is something with the same flash set using my E-M1 and Sigma 105

Prepare to be eaten by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Here is one with my Nissin i40 E-M511 and 60mm f2.8

Dragon fly by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Thanks Alf, That is the kind of set up I was thinking and some really nice shots too! Can I just ask firstly what bracket is that you are using and where from?

Secondly how do you find the STF-8? compared to this set up and do you find it creates a black background too much? I was originally thinking of getting the STF-8 but I though I may be better trying to use the equipment (2 speadlight) I already have rather than spend more?

Cheers Joe
 
There is more info a page back from about post 461 onwards

The flash you have will do the job well for moving subject only one would be needed to get results on invertebrates
A good diffuser is key and is often best DIY I do not use TTL as the shots take too long and I now use an STF-8

Macro rigg E M5II by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Here is something with the same flash set using my E-M1 and Sigma 105

Prepare to be eaten by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Here is one with my Nissin i40 E-M511 and 60mm f2.8

Dragon fly by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Also is that this Ranox 250 thing on the front with the Oly 60mm? what do they actually do?
 
Thanks Alf, That is the kind of set up I was thinking and some really nice shots too! Can I just ask firstly what bracket is that you are using and where from?

Secondly how do you find the STF-8? compared to this set up and do you find it creates a black background too much? I was originally thinking of getting the STF-8 but I though I may be better trying to use the equipment (2 speadlight) I already have rather than spend more?

Cheers Joe
I would get going with the flashguns you have. What do you have?

Starting with one on camera or bracket with good diffusion. There are many examples on this thread.
Have set up for back button focus to use the 60mm?
I would suggest continuous AF +MF with BBF with something like the nine centre AF points.
Then you can fine by rocking or with MF I never use tripod. Though I don't shoot flowers and fungi which if I did I would use a tripod and natural light.

The Raynox increases magnification to about 2X with those tubes I get 3X.

I will explain better with examples if necessary when I at my PC.
 
I would get going with the flashguns you have. What do you have?

Starting with one on camera or bracket with good diffusion. There are many examples on this thread.
Have set up for back button focus to use the 60mm?
I would suggest continuous AF +MF with BBF with something like the nine centre AF points.
Then you can fine by rocking or with MF I never use tripod. Though I don't shoot flowers and fungi which if I did I would use a tripod and natural light.

The Raynox increases magnification to about 2X with those tubes I get 3X.

I will explain better with examples if necessary when I at my PC.

Thank you for this Alf I will have a think and have a play around!

Cheers again as always :)
 
I would get going with the flashguns you have. What do you have?

Starting with one on camera or bracket with good diffusion. There are many examples on this thread.
Have set up for back button focus to use the 60mm?
I would suggest continuous AF +MF with BBF with something like the nine centre AF points.
Then you can fine by rocking or with MF I never use tripod. Though I don't shoot flowers and fungi which if I did I would use a tripod and natural light.

The Raynox increases magnification to about 2X with those tubes I get 3X.

I will explain better with examples if necessary when I at my PC.

I just thought I would update you after my questions the other day. But yesterday I actually received a surprise package, which turned out to be and STF-8! (present form my dad) :)

This now mean that I luckily have all the different light forms available, which means I can now have some fun trialing the different types, to see what works best with each different scenario/subject, as from what I have been reading different scenarios/subject work better with different types of light.

Following on from this, I understand from looking back on here that yourself and some others now use the STF-8 but have adapted it. What adaptions have you made and why? & These tips you gave above:
'Have set up for back button focus to use the 60mm?
I would suggest continuous AF +MF with BBF with something like the nine centre AF points.
Then you can fine by rocking or with MF I never use tripod. Though I don't shoot flowers and fungi which if I did I would use a tripod and natural light.'

would they still apply when using the STF-8?

Many Thanks :)
 
I just thought I would update you after my questions the other day. But yesterday I actually received a surprise package, which turned out to be and STF-8! (present form my dad) :)

This now mean that I luckily have all the different light forms available, which means I can now have some fun trialing the different types, to see what works best with each different scenario/subject, as from what I have been reading different scenarios/subject work better with different types of light.

Following on from this, I understand from looking back on here that yourself and some others now use the STF-8 but have adapted it. What adaptions have you made and why? & These tips you gave above:
'Have set up for back button focus to use the 60mm?
I would suggest continuous AF +MF with BBF with something like the nine centre AF points.
Then you can fine by rocking or with MF I never use tripod. Though I don't shoot flowers and fungi which if I did I would use a tripod and natural light.'

would they still apply when using the STF-8?

Many Thanks :)
Lucky you not a cheap gift
Yeah all that about the focusing is what I would use you could set it as your custom mode I prefer aperture priority myself and set the ISO at 400 minimum shutter sync to 1/160 sec I use the flash in manual as when hand holding the TTL flash (which works great bbw) fires the flash to check exposure and the fires for the shot and sometime things or me have moved and I miss the shot for instance some moths are out the shot before it is taken. Try TTL and see how you get on.
I fire a test shot when I start out and set something like f8 and 1/4 power and see where I need to adjust.
Thats how I do things but

You should add some extra diffusion to you flash heads


E-M1ii macro rig 3 by Alf Branch, on Flickr


As an Olympus user you may find this interesting

View: https://youtu.be/-GBNzdHFeHw

View: https://youtu.be/KElpcsyE7gY
 
Last edited:
Lucky you not a cheap gift
Yeah all that about the focusing is what I would use you could set it as your custom mode I prefer aperture priority myself and set the ISO at 400 minimum shutter sync to 1/160 sec I use the flash in manual as when hand holding the TTL flash (which works great bbw) fires the flash to check exposure and the fires for the shot and sometime things or me have moved and I miss the shot for instance some moths are out the shot before it is taken. Try TTL and see how you get on.
I fire a test shot when I start out and set something like f8 and 1/4 power and see where I need to adjust.
Thats how I do things but

You should add some extra diffusion to you flash heads


E-M1ii macro rig 3 by Alf Branch, on Flickr


As an Olympus user you may find this interesting

View: https://youtu.be/-GBNzdHFeHw

View: https://youtu.be/KElpcsyE7gY

Thanks Alf, it certainly was nice aha. As for the tech advice thank you for that too, it gives me a good starting point for when I start using it & will also give those videos a watch too.

As for the diffusion, may I ask why you do this? is it an issue with the STF-8 or is it just a personal improvement that it make to the light? I have also seen some posts where people have added ball heads to the flash heads, do you find this is necaserry?

Thanks again for your help :)
 
Thanks Alf, it certainly was nice aha. As for the tech advice thank you for that too, it gives me a good starting point for when I start using it & will also give those videos a watch too.

As for the diffusion, may I ask why you do this? is it an issue with the STF-8 or is it just a personal improvement that it make to the light? I have also seen some posts where people have added ball heads to the flash heads, do you find this is necaserry?

Thanks again for your help :)

Joe if you look through most of this thread it is as much about flash diffusers as anything else. Lighting is important in all photography and direct bright sunlight is rarely a good thing

It is hard to have enough diffusion!
 
Joe if you look through most of this thread it is as much about flash diffusers as anything else. Lighting is important in all photography and direct bright sunlight is rarely a good thing

It is hard to have enough diffusion!

Thank you, will do :)
 
I've come across this piece of gear that enables me to get really close to the ground that I find much easier then using a tripod
The Edelkrone StandOne
50505837976_21d0a1f299_c.jpg

It has a much smaller footprint than a tripod and it's very easy to make micro adjustments to the legs.

It's German company with the products engineered in Turkey. I also have their Z FlexTilt head2 but I haven't used that in anger yet.
 
I've come across this piece of gear that enables me to get really close to the ground that I find much easier then using a tripod
The Edelkrone StandOne
50505837976_21d0a1f299_c.jpg

It has a much smaller footprint than a tripod and it's very easy to make micro adjustments to the legs.

It's German company with the products engineered in Turkey. I also have their Z FlexTilt head2 but I haven't used that in anger yet.

..... German + Edelkrone = High Quality Product !

I have a Platypod + Jobu Jr-3 small gimbal set up on my Kitchen-Window-Hide window cill and I also have a Naturescape Skimmer ground pod (looks like a frisbee) for when travelling, but this Edelkrone would be much more compact when travelling or on walkabout.

The down side of the Platypod is that it's too flat for uneven ground (but perfect for every hide's flat window cill) and the little adjustable screw legs are a pain to use in practice - I now never use them.

The down side of the Skimmer is it is bulky (but not heavy) for carrying around.

Damnit!!! I think I might have to buy one of these Edekrone StandOnes! Not so much for macro but for low shots. I'm hoping to be staked out lying among the dunes on the back of a beach photographing Seals for a few days next month which it might be perfect for.

Here's a video demo of it :

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2UsSt98Xx4
 
Last edited:
The StandOne is amazingly easy to set up on uneven surfaces. I also bought the Edelkrone FlexTilt Head2
equally as expensive but as you say, the engineering is superb. I bought an Amazon knockoff before I bought the Flex and sent it back the same day. At the moment I'm just using the Z Flex thingy mounted on the StandOne to make a stable platform for my macro rails. It's rock solid yet easily adjustable. I discovered German engineering when I bought the Novoflex macro rail and ball head, superb stuff, infinitely better than Chinese copies and equally well engineered but cheaper than the American equivalents.
I wish I could afford to buy more Novoflex gear!
When you buy from Edelkrone the first time they give a 10% discount but the UK agents
price matched.
Edit: I did look at the Platypod initially.
 
Last edited:
The StandOne is amazingly easy to set up on uneven surfaces. I also bought the Edelkrone FlexTilt Head2
equally as expensive but as you say, the engineering is superb. I bought an Amazon knockoff before I bought the Flex and sent it back the same day.

At the moment I'm just using the Z Flex thingy mounted on the StandOne to make a stable platform for my macro rails. It's rock solid yet easily adjustable. I discovered German engineering when I bought the Novoflex macro rail and ball head, superb stuff, infinitely better than Chinese copies and equally well engineered but cheaper than the American equivalents.

.... Instagram was flooded with adverts for FlexTilt Head copies a few months ago and I'm glad my research into the product revealed Edelkrone. I haven't bought a FlexTilt because I don't feel its need for what I shoot. I have a high quality Really Right Stuff ballhead I no longer use but it might be useful to mount on a StandOne if I do buy one.

StandOne + RRS ballhead would be more compact for travelling/walkabout than StandOne + Jobu Jr-3 in spite of the gimbal being the smallest on the market but with the ballhead I wouldn't additionally need my levelling base.

[Robin goes off to find his RRS ballhead]

A photographer never has enough gear!! :D
 
Here is the rig I'm experimenting with at the moment.
  • Sony A7ii
  • Sigma MC-11 EF to E mount adapter
  • EF mount Kenko TelePlus Pro 300 2X teleconverter
  • EF mount Kenko TelePlus Pro 300 1.4X teleconverter
  • EF mount Laowa 100mm 2X macro lens
  • Venus Optics KX800 twin flash
  • Home-made diffusers, two layers of plastic paper for each box and one layer of plastic paper in front of the boxes
  • SmallRig LCD hood
  • Uni-Com torch
This setup goes from infinity focus to 5.6X magnification by turning the focus/magnification ring around 120 degrees. Aperture ranges from f/8 to f/64. Given the effect of magnification on effective aperture, I am typically using effective f-numbers of around f/64 to f/200.

There are some examples of images captured with this setup in these posts:


1705 Illustration 3 - KX800 with Plastic paper diffusion
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr


1705 Illustration 1 - KX800 with Plastic paper diffusion
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr


1705 Illustration 2 - KX800 with Plastic paper diffusion
by gardenersassistant, on Flickr
 
@GardenersHelper

I have ordered some of these to see if I can get my Twin flash heads onto flexible arms with the diffusion things - 2 weeks or so from HK....


Paul.
 
@GardenersHelper

I have ordered some of these to see if I can get my Twin flash heads onto flexible arms with the diffusion things - 2 weeks or so from HK....


Paul.
Cheap at twice the price Paul ;)
 
Cheap at twice the price Paul ;)

I would imagine it will give the same sort of result in use as the k800 Nick uses. With the diffusion I am trying it might well improve my results by getting the light better positioned than where they are at the front of the lenses.

Paul.
 
I would imagine it will give the same sort of result in use as the k800 Nick uses. With the diffusion I am trying it might well improve my results by getting the light better positioned than where they are at the front of the lenses.

Paul.

I have one of those. I don't know if it is exactly the same brand, but it looks the same. The arms are very stiff. If (after some experimentation of course) the flash heads stay in the same place irrespective of magnification, then that probably wouldn't matter. In fact it might be an advantage, depending on the weight of the flash heads you are going to be using. But if you need to move the flash heads around, perhaps not so good. It probably depends on exactly what movement is required. And perhaps yours is a different brand and/or not so stiff.
 
I have of those flexible brackets, stiffness was fine, but they kept coming undone from the bottom mount, soft metal....some liquid metal filler locked them in place, and its been a couple of years of use.
 
I have the Yongnuo twin flash YN24EX and I wondered if the Raynox 250 would attach to the unit?
On the face of it this fellow seems to:

I haven't read the article in any detail but I'd also like to use my Raynox adapters with my Meike Twin flash for Sony.
 
I have the Yongnuo twin flash YN24EX and I wondered if the Raynox 250 would attach to the unit?

Does the attachment ring have a filter thread at the front?
I have to add a filter or adapter to the front of mine to get the thread far enough forward for it to attach I use a step down ring I had already it also allows the use of a lens cap I had
 
The lens has a 62mm thread.
The YN24EX connects via a 67mm release so on the 62mm is a step up to 67mm.
The flash mount connects onto that.

The Raynox 250 has a 43mm thread at the back and 49mm thread on the front. So I guess I would need a 62 to 43, then a 49 to 67?

I have added 5 images showing the stages from lens to fully attached so you can see how it has to go together. I would need to get the Raynox onto there somehow.
 

Attachments

  • 20210322_142206.jpg
    20210322_142206.jpg
    126.2 KB · Views: 9
  • 20210322_142218.jpg
    20210322_142218.jpg
    121.2 KB · Views: 9
  • 20210322_142253.jpg
    20210322_142253.jpg
    190.5 KB · Views: 8
  • 20210322_142313.jpg
    20210322_142313.jpg
    239.1 KB · Views: 10
  • 20210322_142354.jpg
    20210322_142354.jpg
    158.6 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:
The lens has a 62mm thread.
The YN24EX connects via a 67mm release so on the 62mm is a step up to 67mm.
The flash mount connects onto that.

The Raynox 250 has a 43mm thread at the back and 49mm thread on the front. So I guess I would need a 62 to 43, then a 49 to 67?

I have added 5 images showing the stages from lens to fully attached so you can see how it has to go together. I would need to get the Raynox onto there somehow.

Paul
It depends on how you want to attach the Raynox as they can be clipped on and off like a lens cap or you can screw it on like a filter


This guy shows it being fitted

View: https://youtu.be/Gt8zXDD6Z1g
 
I noticed some effects I'd be wary of in his video....

Tbh Alf, I wouldn't know which would be best (probably clipping it on) but I'd need to extend in front of the flash attachment because removing and adding it otherwise would a PITA.

Food for thought all this - seeing that last vid makes me less inclined than before a bit...

Paul.
 
Back
Top