The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

In plain sight is easiest and possibly least visible! Stick it on your body and don't make a big deal about having a new toy.


Y'know that is very true. Unless your missus has a big interest in photography gear too, she won't notice if you stick it straight onto your camera. I know mine wouldn't, she knows 'kind of' what gear I own, but she'd not spot a new addition. Got me thinking now ... :whistle:
 
It's not that it isn't as good, it's a different type of lens.

The 35mm will offer better shallow DOF/Bokeh, it allows you in a little closer, it's better for portraits and let's in that extra bit of light. It is sharper than the 27, but it's possibly sharper than most Fuji lenses. If it's the F2 you're talking? it's almost silent in operation, which is nice, and it's weather resistant.

The 27 is more stealthy [apart fro it's noisey AF], is more ideal for street photography, it's bright enough for most normal conditions and makes your set up as light as you're going to get. The lens weighs just 78g! It is the least intimidating lens to use when shooting out and about, people don't pay any heed, so it is better for candids. It's sexier than the 35 [either version] Makes an XT-1/2 look like a Big Bro' to the X100T



hncfsjg.jpg

I was actually talking about the f1.4 as that's the only one I had seen, the f2 if I'm correct is water resistant. I can't understand why it's about £100 cheaper?

My photography is probably mostly of my kids, so a decent portrait lens is probably more important. I love the shallow DOF too:
 
I was actually talking about the f1.4 as that's the only one I had seen, the f2 if I'm correct is water resistant. I can't understand why it's about £100 cheaper?

My photography is probably mostly of my kids, so a decent portrait lens is probably more important. I love the shallow DOF too:

There's been debates over which of the 35m is best, I would go for the F2, it's cheaper, quieter and has that WR like you say. Either of the 35 will offer better shallow DOF than the 27 for certain.
 
There's been debates over which of the 35m is best, I would go for the F2, it's cheaper, quieter and has that WR like you say. Either of the 35 will offer better shallow DOF than the 27 for certain.

Hmm.... could be tempted for the cheaper then...
I'll have a search for the comparisons :)
 
I was actually talking about the f1.4 as that's the only one I had seen, the f2 if I'm correct is water resistant. I can't understand why it's about £100 cheaper?

My photography is probably mostly of my kids, so a decent portrait lens is probably more important. I love the shallow DOF too:

Cheaper because it's corrected in camera so not as expensive to manufacture
 
So, since buying my X-T1 and 10-24 combo I've been racked with indecision about keeping it.
No more, I officially like it now.
Couldn't have got this shot with any of my other cameras.
Flippy flappy screen put to good use, held the camera about 2 inches above the water.
Only lens I have for 10mm

Yes I had my wellies on..not a great picture but for me it shows the value of the Fuji combo..

DSCF0192 by Trevor, on Flickr
 
So, since buying my X-T1 and 10-24 combo I've been racked with indecision about keeping it.
No more, I officially like it now.
Couldn't have got this shot with any of my other cameras.
Flippy flappy screen put to good use, held the camera about 2 inches above the water.
Only lens I have for 10mm

Yes I had my wellies on..not a great picture but for me it shows the value of the Fuji combo..

DSCF0192 by Trevor, on Flickr
i like this pic, love the trees in the background,will have to give this try
 
So, since buying my X-T1 and 10-24 combo I've been racked with indecision about keeping it.
No more, I officially like it now.
Couldn't have got this shot with any of my other cameras.
Flippy flappy screen put to good use, held the camera about 2 inches above the water.
Only lens I have for 10mm

Yes I had my wellies on..not a great picture but for me it shows the value of the Fuji combo..

DSCF0192 by Trevor, on Flickr

I like it! And yes, the folding screen is one of my absolute favourite things about the X-T10...except sometimes it seems to lose connection to the body at inopportune moments, which is annoying. I wouldn't buy a camera without one now, though...
 
Oh yeh I knew it was coming from China, doesn't seem to be anywhere with any UK stock yet.

Cwmorthin is fine, it'll be swarming with minibus loads of climbers. Usual parking spot: https://goo.gl/maps/JzfLDUsK8GH2 . Might be a bit snowy up there, if not white it'll certainly be squelchy!

From the summer:

Capel heb Cynulleidfa by Alan Jones, on Flickr

Not a lot of improvement from a year ago

The Rain Cometh by Alan Jones, on Flickr
Got a bit buried in the deluge of shopping posts :) but I really like the first of these, particularly.
 
I used to say tilty-flappy screens were naff, but I'm loving it now. I say same about touch screen on cameras but I can definitely see it being useful too.The LCD on the XT cameras is solid, never feels vulnerable, I love how it snaps back into place with confidence, it even makes a nice little 'clap' sound. I've used it effectively for ground macro and it's handy also if you try star trails with a small tripod
 
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A healthy dose of crap and images :)

I used to frequent the D800 thread, and was very surprised to see y last post in there is still on second last page. That really died off.
 
I used to say tilty-flappy screens were naff, but I'm loving it now. I say same about touch screen on cameras but I can definitely see it being useful too.The LCD on the XT cameras is solid, never feels vulnerable, I love how it snaps back into place with confidence, it even makes a nice little 'clap' sound. I've used it effectively for ground macro and it's handy also if you try star trails with a small tripod
I don't really miss the lack of a touch screen, but I can see when it would come in handy for picking the focus point...
 
Bit of fun ;)


DSCF6218-5
by TDG-77, on Flickr
Nice, I like the tones of the grass.

I tested my 35mm today and it does the same as yours at 1.4.
It's definitely CA, exacerbated by the shallow DOF. Mine showed like yours behind focus, and slightly pink in front. I also noticed mine focused ever so slightly in front of where I was expecting. Not by much, but enough to make a difference at that distance.
 
Nice, I like the tones of the grass.

I tested my 35mm today and it does the same as yours at 1.4.
It's definitely CA, exacerbated by the shallow DOF. Mine showed like yours behind focus, and slightly pink in front. I also noticed mine focused ever so slightly in front of where I was expecting. Not by much, but enough to make a difference at that distance.
Thanks. Does yours do it in all subjects/surfaces?
 
Thanks. Does yours do it in all subjects/surfaces?

It's called bokeh fringing, it's pretty normal for lots of lenses. It can be a problem if you have auto CA removal in Lightroom as it will replace the blurry coloured fringe with a solid black line. My old Sigma macro was a royal PITA in this regard on my Fuji S5.
 
Thank you for all the advice!
Ive taken the plunge and purchased the X-T10 with the 18-55 Lens for £715 with £160 cash back
Then the 35mm F2 lens from amazon for £299

Happy snapping!

Lovey kit, you will have fun shooting with that :)

I've managed to avoid buying anything today other than toilet cleaner and a bottle of wine (not to be confused!)

Well wine would probably work to clean a toilet, but I'd not like the other for a hangover :hungover:
 
Lovey kit, you will have fun shooting with that :)



Well wine would probably work to clean a toilet, but I'd not like the other for a hangover :hungover:

Thank you!

Looking forward to getting it all now.

Not sure I can claim any cash back from this lens purchase from Amazon tho.

Jordan
 
You can tone down yellow specifically in LR if you desired, but I like the look/feel :) I feel almost like a stalker viewing them :D
Oh thank you, that's kind. But it is a deliberate choice. I pulled the WB back quite a lot from where it was taken (because I shoot RAW, I just leave mine set to Daylight, usually). But then from what LR reckoned on Auto, I pushed it a little way into the yellow to get some warmth and the feel I was looking for. WB at night is never really "correct" - there are too many sources of different colours to contend with. All you can do is pick one that makes you happy, by and large.
 
Oh thank you, that's kind. But it is a deliberate choice. I pulled the WB back quite a lot from where it was taken (because I shoot RAW, I just leave mine set to Daylight, usually). But then from what LR reckoned on Auto, I pushed it a little way into the yellow to get some warmth and the feel I was looking for. WB at night is never really "correct" - there are too many sources of different colours to contend with. All you can do is pick one that makes you happy, by and large.


I shoot RAW 99.9% of the time too, it's just the way to go if you're going to do PP anyway :) I always leave it in auto WB, because it won't matter, just like any other on-cam option. I love RAW for that, and the ability to push-pull process a LOT more than any Jpeg will ever allow. Plus with the Fuji 'RAF' you have that added option with the film simulations. I know people harp on about the Fuji Jpeg, but it's nuts not to shoot RAW/RAF if you are always in LR later anyway

I have been shooting RAW + Jpeg for a bit, but I find I'm almost always choosing the RAW file to play with in post, so might just revert back to y old RAW only habit
 
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I shoot RAW 99.9% of the time too, it's just the way to go if you're going to do PP anyway :) I always leave it in auto WB, because it won't matter, just like any other on-cam option. I love RAW for that, and the ability to push-pull process a LOT more than any Jpeg will ever allow. Plus with the Fuji 'RAF' you have that added option with the film simulations. I know people harp on about the Fuji Jpeg, but it's nuts not to shoot RAW/RAF if you are always in LR later anyway

I have been shooting RAW + Jpeg for a bit, but I find I'm almost always choosing the RAW file to play with in post, so might just revert back to y old RAW only habit
Yeah, me too. I'm used to it from my Pentax days, because the dynamic range of the K10-D sensor isn't great and the last thing you want to do is throw any of it away! BTW, I did a workshop with a landscape tog back in 2015 who reckoned that even shooting RAW it was better to set your WB to one thing (almost anything) and leave it there, rather than use Auto, as you get more consistency in your meter readings and fewer blown highlights from strong colours. I don't know how much of an issue that is in practice, but I pass the tip on for what it's worth. Seems to me that it might help and can't do any harm, so I do it!
 
Yeah, me too. I'm used to it from my Pentax days, because the dynamic range of the K10-D sensor isn't great and the last thing you want to do is throw any of it away! BTW, I did a workshop with a landscape tog back in 2015 who reckoned that even shooting RAW it was better to set your WB to one thing (almost anything) and leave it there, rather than use Auto, as you get more consistency in your meter readings and fewer blown highlights from strong colours. I don't know how much of an issue that is in practice, but I pass the tip on for what it's worth. Seems to me that it might help and can't do any harm, so I do it!

I would tend to disagree, as all WB variants/levels are basically right there within your RAW file and WB doesn't effect highlights afaik, but whatever works ;) Auto has always worked for me, that's all I know. I don't get deep into the technical or scientific side, I go with my eyes with photography, always.
 
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I would tend to disagree, as all WB variants/levels are basically right there within your RAW file and WB doesn't effect highlights afaik, but whatever works ;) Auto has always worked for me, that's all I know. I don't get deep into the technical or scientific side, I go with my eyes with photography, always.
Well it's definitely possible. The histogram Fuji shows you is based on the JPEG. And the relative luminance of different colours in the JPEG will vary with the WB you select (as you can see for yourself in LR). The only question for me is whether this is really a factor in practice. I suspect that in most shooting situations it isn't, but there might be some edge cases where it makes a real difference.
 
Well it's definitely possible. The histogram Fuji shows you is based on the JPEG. And the relative luminance of different colours in the JPEG will vary with the WB you select (as you can see for yourself in LR). The only question for me is whether this is really a factor in practice. I suspect that in most shooting situations it isn't, but there might be some edge cases where it makes a real difference.


Hey, if it's working for you, don't change it! That's how I roll :D I often think there is no right or wrong, end result is what really matters :)
 
It's called bokeh fringing, it's pretty normal for lots of lenses. It can be a problem if you have auto CA removal in Lightroom as it will replace the blurry coloured fringe with a solid black line. My old Sigma macro was a royal PITA in this regard on my Fuji S5.
Thanks. Yeah I get/understand the fringing (which I call ghosting ;)) but is the missing focus that was the issue. As you see from my latest Lego man pic there's still ghosting around the helmet but at least the eye/face area is sharp this time so there's no ghosting around that like there was before.
 
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