OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

[excalibur2]

Zenza Bronica S2
View attachment 418472
Having this beast next to my 35mm cameras makes them look like a toys.
The weight of it is only for real tough men, it’s like holding a couple of bricks instead of a camera (I’m thankful I did not get the telephoto lens).
Aesthetically it’s such a beauty, but…
But Christ, how am I supposed to use this camera? How Should I hold it?
If I use the camera strap it hurts my neck, no strap and There’s a chance I might drop the camera. I only see it used with tripod and rarely handheld.
Anyone had/has one of these in their possession?

Weight no problem after using a RB67 like my setup

 

[Clive K]

Zenza Bronica S2
View attachment 418472
Having this beast next to my 35mm cameras makes them look like a toys.
The weight of it is only for real tough men, it’s like holding a couple of bricks instead of a camera (I’m thankful I did not get the telephoto lens).
Aesthetically it’s such a beauty, but…
But Christ, how am I supposed to use this camera? How Should I hold it?
If I use the camera strap it hurts my neck, no strap and There’s a chance I might drop the camera. I only see it used with tripod and rarely handheld.
Anyone had/has one of these in their possession?

I used to have one of those for pest control. I only had to fire the shutter and it scattered every wood pigeon in Sth Yorkshire.

 

[Marino]

Weight no problem after using a RB67 like my setup

The internet tells me that camera is bigger and heavier compared to the bronica s2.
So, are you basically telling me to “man up” @excalibur2 !?!?
First camera of that type by the way so no way knowing what’s “normal “.

 

[Marino]

I used to have one of those for pest control. I only had to fire the shutter and it scattered every wood pigeon in Sth Yorkshire.

I had in mind using the camera for portraits but I fear I’m going to capture expressions of fear when I hit the shutter button

 

[Clive K]

I had in mind using the camera for portraits but I fear I’m going to capture expressions of fear when I hit the shutter button

The second shot will be them cowering behind the settee calling 999

 

[excalibur2]

The internet tells me that camera is bigger and heavier compared to the bronica s2.
So, are you basically telling me to “man up” @excalibur2 !?!?
First camera of that type by the way so no way knowing what’s “normal “.

Just joking.... but would think if using a MF camera that is heavy? it wouldn't be for quick shots like using a digi or 35mm but you know what you are going to shoot so e.g. what I do is carry my RB67 or Bronica Etrs camera in a back pack.

 

[Marino]

I’m also joking @excalibur2
As I said it’s my first camera of this type, so didn’t really know what to expect.
I started with folding cameras and I prefer that design. The only problem with folding cameras is that they’re not ideal for portraits (personal opinion of course).

but you know what you are going to shoot so e.g. what I do is carry my RB67 or Bronica Etrs camera in a back pack.

Yes that’s a good idea. Backpack on my next photo walk then!

 

[StephenM]

Having spent a day around Wells photographing the churches etc with my RZ67 and shift lens, I was easily persuaded by a dealer in Bath a day or so later to buy a 5x4 to save weight. So I did.

 

[cedge]

Really chuffed, picked up a Carl Zeiss Flektogon 35mm f2.4 m42 lens as part of an untested job lot the other day. It was simply labelled as a 35mm lens but I could just make out from the pics what it was. Came with 2x CZJ 135mm f3.5s and a couple other junk lenses. The 2 135mm are fully working and will more than pay for the entire job lot if and when I decide to sell them on but my main prize was the Flektogon.
When it arrived I noticed it had a slight rattle and my heart sank but it seemed ok on a few close focus shots I did around the house. I decided to take it out and test it at our local cathedral and was super disappointed. The centre of the images were OKish but everything else was distorted even stopped down, I thought for sure my brilliant buy had soured. I decided despite never taking a lens apart to see if I could disassemble it to find the rattle. I could only find one video on youtube showing a disassembly but managed to open the front and back where I found two different elements had somehow worked themselves loose. A quick tighten up and 2 botched attempts at reassembling followed by a third successful one and the rattle had gone completely, the aperture worked and everything was focusing like it should!!!

Now the happy owner of a fully working and sweet little CZJ Flektogon 35mm.
View attachment 417483

I picked up one of these the other day but on mine, the aperture ring is stuck pretty much wide open, I wonder whether it is worth a little DIY especially as I've never opened a lens either...?

 

[RyanB]

I picked up one of these the other day but on mine, the aperture ring is stuck pretty much wide open, I wonder whether it is worth a little DIY especially as I've never opened a lens either...?

Is the aperture ring actually jammed or do the blades just not respond to moving the ring?
Getting to the blades seems easy enough but if its a jammed ring that might get a lot more involved with tiny screws and springs. Also from what I have seen putting it back together everything needs to be aligned just right or you might run into issues.
Probably worth watching a few youtube videos to see if is something you would be comfortable with before cracking it open. I'm not sure I would be comfortable playing with the aperture mechanism itself but cleaning the blades in situ by removing the front and back element groups is pretty straight forward.

 

[cedge]

Is the aperture ring actually jammed or do the blades just not respond to moving the ring?
Getting to the blades seems easy enough but if its a jammed ring that might get a lot more involved with tiny screws and springs. Also from what I have seen putting it back together everything needs to be aligned just right or you might run into issues.
Probably worth watching a few youtube videos to see if is something you would be comfortable with before cracking it open. I'm not sure I would be comfortable playing with the aperture mechanism itself but cleaning the blades in situ by removing the front and back element groups is pretty straight forward.

The ring turns fine, the blades themselves don't operate/close down.

 

[desf]

I’ve bought another Leica , couldn’t resist.
Pic to follow once it arrives….

 

[RaglanSurf]

Fresh off the DHL van today, Nikon 35mm f/2 Ai from Japan via eBay. I considered holding out for an f/1.4 version but most of the other browsers were doing the same judging from how the bidding on the ones I was watching went so I convinced myself that I'd be far too precious about the faster lens to take it anywhere and opted for the f/2 instead.

This should complete my small collection of Nikon lenses to use with the FE2. Now all I have to do is ignore the guy selling a 105mm f/2.5 in the Classifieds and remember that I haven't been out photographing anything recently, never mind taking portrait shots.

The 105mm f2.5 is a fab lens though, I have a very beaten up copy that I bought when lenses were much cheaper than they are now, it comes out every now and again

 

[RyanB]

The ring turns fine, the blades themselves don't operate/close down.

Before you open it up this might seem a stupid question, the side switch isn't set in A mode is it? Anything happen when you depress the pin at the rear of the lens?

 

[excalibur2]

The 105mm f2.5 is a fab lens though, I have a very beaten up copy that I bought when lenses were much cheaper than they are now, it comes out every now and again

If you want to save a few bob then the Nikkor P (non AI) Sonnar is cheaper but some say the AI is better? e,g, http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_short.html of course you have to have the right camera for non AI like FM or F4? AS am not sure whether non AI lenses work OK on other Nikons as I've only have a few manual ones.

I didn't get the 24mm and 105 both non AI at the bootie and had to pay £100 for the two with Nikon hoods ....a few years ago.

 

[Strapps]

The 105mm f2.5 is a fab lens though, I have a very beaten up copy that I bought when lenses were much cheaper than they are now, it comes out every now and again

I went looking for alternatives and after a brief flirtation with the 105mm f/2.5 Vivitar Series 1 (built by Kiron), I've become intrigued with the idea of a f/2.8 macro instead. It'll do almost the same portrait shots as the f/2.5, or thereabouts, with the option shooting macro. Should be easily adaptable should I go mirrorless digital again too. Although I thought the same about a Canon FD lens I had and used for that purpose twice.

If you want to save a few bob then the Nikkor P (non AI) Sonnar is cheaper but some say the AI is better? e,g, http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_short.html of course you have to have the right camera for non AI like FM or F4? AS am not sure whether non AI lenses work OK on other Nikons as I've only have a few manual ones.

I prefer AI for the simple reason that I have an FE2 and can see what aperture I'm using in the viewfinder. Personal preference, suspect it'd be immaterial otherwise.

 

[desf]

I had the AIS 85mm f2 which was nice.

Now have a Tamron 90mm f2.5 (with 1:2 macro and 1:1 with matching TC) In Nikon mount.
Don‘t use the Tamron any more, so was thinking of putting it in the classifieds….

 

[excalibur2]

I went looking for alternatives

The Fuji EBC X-fujinon T 100mm f2.8 (which I have) is a VG lens and have the Fuji STX-2 to use it. When camera bodies (and lenses) were going for peanuts in the past, used to hunt down the VG lenses mentioned on the net and always had a camera body (well not all) to use them.
I've always been interested in Topcon/Topcor lenses but never saw them at the bootie but did buy a topcon UNI for £1 (no lens) and still waiting for a lens to turn up although IIRC it has an Exakta mount ????

 

[StephenM]

I don't know about later models, but in the mid 60s the Exakta bayonet was used on at least one Topcon camera. As far as I recall, the only other "shared bayonet" was the Nikon one, used by the Ricoh Singlex.

I know Exakta lenses could be used on the Miranda F, but the left handed auto diaphragm meant they were mounted upside down.

Back on the Topcon, there is an adaptor to fit Canon FD lenses on an Exakta, courtesy of the shorter Canon lens to film distance. I've fitted a Canon f/1.2 SSC ASPH 55mm on an Exakta Varex. Never seen it advertised, but got a couple in a bumper bundle from the DPS stand at Focus.

 

[Kell]

Finally made a decision about which way to go to fill the gap in my Minolta primes.

Had 50mm and 135mm, but nothing in-between. Not strictly true, I have a few zooms,

So, because I had 85mm covered with one of the zooms, I figured I go for the MDII 100/2.5.

100f2.5 by Kell, on Flickr

Nicely fills this gap...

Lens Line up by Kell, on Flickr

 

[Kell]

On a film RELATED note.

I also decided to add a Sony A7 to the stable to use purely with my Minolta Lenses.

24/2.8

B&W Minolta 24-00314 by Kell, on Flickr

28/2.8

B&W Minolta 28-00306 by Kell, on Flickr

35/1.8

B&W Minolta 35-00308 by Kell, on Flickr

45/2

B&W Minolta 45-00301 by Kell, on Flickr

50/1.4

B&W Minolta 50 1.4-00299 by Kell, on Flickr

50/1.7

B&W Minolta 50 1.7-00310 by Kell, on Flickr

100/2.5

B&W Minolta 100-2.5-00673 by Kell, on Flickr

135/3.5

B&W Minolta 135-00316 by Kell, on Flickr

 

[Strapps]

The Fuji EBC X-fujinon T 100mm f2.8 (which I have) is a VG lens and have the Fuji STX-2 to use it. When camera bodies (and lenses) were going for peanuts in the past, used to hunt down the VG lenses mentioned on the net and always had a camera body (well not all) to use them.

That's what I used to do too but after the Great Gear Purge last year I'm restricting myself to a couple of film bodies and only one of those will take multiple lenses (well, two to be accurate but I've no intention of adding to the other body). The FE2 is comfortable in the hand despite my sausage fingers, well built and still small enough to easily pack in a day bag, hence my search being limited to F-mount lenses.

 

[cedge]

Before you open it up this might seem a stupid question, the side switch isn't set in A mode is it? Anything happen when you depress the pin at the rear of the lens?

No pin on my copy, a very loose switch which reads A or M. Switching to M, it closes down from wide open to almost wide open and no smaller.

 

[RyanB]

No pin on my copy, a very loose switch which reads A or M. Switching to M, it closes down from wide open to almost wide open and no smaller.

I take it its not m42 mount then, I thought all of them had a pin to stop down from the camera body. (could be wrong). the fact it still closes down a bit is good, could be you just need to clean the blades. Could also be a damaged/ worn spring though.
I guess you won't know till you open it up.
I would reiterate, watch a few different videos before you start and make sure you document everything. I found it helpful to do everything on a white piece of paper and mark onto it where screw points, A/M switch and aperture(remember what aperture you are in before taking apart) are on the lens so everything goes back where it should. Lay out all the pieces in the same orientation as they came off. I didn't the first time and had a pig of a time realigning it all so the aperture worked properly.
Good luck if you decide to give it a go.

 

[excalibur2]

That's what I used to do too but after the Great Gear Purge last year I'm restricting myself to a couple of film bodies and only one of those will take multiple lenses (well, two to be accurate but I've no intention of adding to the other body). The FE2 is comfortable in the hand despite my sausage fingers, well built and still small enough to easily pack in a day bag, hence my search being limited to F-mount lenses.

Well just AAMOI...I have so many VG lenses of the same type e.g. about sixteen 28mms and found comparing later VG lenses on a film camera is difficult to find the differences, but more interesting are older screw lenses some with about 15 blades so background lights are round compared to the effect sometimes of say five bladed lenses which to me are annoying.
e.g.
Etrs 75mm

 

[angelpaaul]

I take it its not m42 mount then, I thought all of them had a pin to stop down from the camera body. (could be wrong). the fact it still closes down a bit is good, could be you just need to clean the blades. Could also be a damaged/ worn spring though.
I guess you won't know till you open it up.
I would reiterate, watch a few different videos before you start and make sure you document everything. I found it helpful to do everything on a white piece of paper and mark onto it where screw points, A/M switch and aperture(remember what aperture you are in before taking apart) are on the lens so everything goes back where it should. Lay out all the pieces in the same orientation as they came off. I didn't the first time and had a pig of a time realigning it all so the aperture worked properly.
Good luck if you decide to give it a go.

Taking a few snaps with a mobile phone or digital camera helps as well. Perhaps in a step by step sequence.

 

[excalibur2]

No pin on my copy, a very loose switch which reads A or M. Switching to M, it closes down from wide open to almost wide open and no smaller.

Ryan seems to cover it all and just to mention you start from the back and the proper way would be to clean the blades separately but before that you could try lighter fluid and there is a tiny lever inside to actuate the blades, but the problem with using lighter fluid is:- once it dries out the blades could stick again so sometimes it works and sometimes not.
With the pin missing don't the digi guys remove the pin????

 

[Strapps]

I take it its not m42 mount then, I thought all of them had a pin to stop down from the camera body. (could be wrong).

M42 was originally a fully manual stop-down design, the pin was a later development for convenience after a 2-ring design where you'd select the desired aperture but the blades would remain open for composing the shot, then you'd turn the second ring to close it down to the stop you'd set on the first ring.

With the pin missing don't the digi guys remove the pin????

I can't remember the exact lens but when I was playing around with M42 adapters on digital I took the back off one to remove the pin spring and force the lens into working as a stop-down. This was necessary because there's nothing in the adapter to press the pin when taking a shot.

Despite the Great Gear Purge I held on to a couple of the more interesting M42 lenses with the thought that I'd get another digital camera eventually. I have a Pentacon 30mm f/3.5 and Steinheil München Cassar S 50mm f/2.8 that both have no pin and, interestingly, stepless aperture rings.

 

[RyanB]

M42 was originally a fully manual stop-down design, the pin was a later development for convenience after a 2-ring design where you'd select the desired aperture but the blades would remain open for composing the shot, then you'd turn the second ring to close it down to the stop you'd set on the first ring.

I know and have a bunch of the older preset type m42's, I personally prefer them to the automatics when using them on my digital camera for being able to see through the viewfinder when composing before stopping down to take the shot. As his has a A/M switch I thought it safe to assume it wasn't one of those, not even sure if they made a preset Flektogon.
I'm guessing if it is an m42 the pin was removed at some point(or it's not an m42 version but some other mount, I just wasn't sure if other mounts had an A/M switch).

 

[The Oldun]

The last iteration of the M42 lens didn't have a pin but a mechanism to allow open aperture metering (but retaining the A/M switch) with newer camera types. I have a Helios 44M-4 which has this arrangement. I think they are supposed to be backward compatible but can't logically work out how the 44M-4 can be.

 

[PeterSpencer]

An update on the Canon T50 I bought recently. I've enjoyed using it, it's quite liberating in a way that it is such a simple p&s camera. It doesn't work, however, with my FL lenses so I decided I should find another FD lens for it. I looked on eBay and narrowly missed getting a 35/2.8. Most of the FD lenses seemed to have fungus and other problems and seemed a tad expensive. Quite by chance I saw a 35-70 FD zoom lens on sale at Ffordes for a very reasonable price. The lens is in cracking condition. I looked at some reviews and it seems the lens is pretty good when stopped down a bit.



I also picked up the correct bayonet mount lens hood from another source, the dedicated speedlight and remote plus a 10 metre remote extension cable, all for next to nowt.

The holiday pictures I took a couple of weeks ago turned out pretty well.

 

[excalibur2]

An update on the Canon T50 I bought recently. I've enjoyed using it, it's quite liberating in a way that it is such a simple p&s camera. It doesn't work, however, with my FL lenses so I decided I should find another FD lens for it. I looked on eBay and narrowly missed getting a 35/2.8. Most of the FD lenses seemed to have fungus and other problems and seemed a tad expensive. Quite by chance I saw a 35-70 FD zoom lens on sale at Ffordes for a very reasonable price. The lens is in cracking condition. I looked at some reviews and it seems the lens is pretty good when stopped down a bit.

View attachment 419142

I also picked up the correct bayonet mount lens hood from another source, the dedicated speedlight and remote plus a 10 metre remote extension cable, all for next to nowt.

The holiday pictures I took a couple of weeks ago turned out pretty well.

As you got everything cheap it can be considered a "throw away system" if camera stops working so why worry about fungus on a lens if you can get it very cheap, all you have to remember is:- a small bit fungus on the front lens is no problem esp around the periphery and reject a lens with fungus deep inside the elements and on the back lens (unless you want to take it apart ). On a sunny day put the lens facing the sun and UV will kill it.

 

[Jakemico AE-1P]

Arrived in the mail today. Looking forward to running a few rolls through in preparation for Gorilla Trekking in Uganda

 

[Clive K]

I am a Zeissaholic and was looking for one of these before an eye injury in 2006 interupted my photo hobby. I found this on French freeads site. The seller had no idea how to test it so I agreed a much lower fee than they are usually listed for. It arrived today and works fine. The meter is accurate to within half a stop of my dslr and the shutter speeds of 1/30 and above sound to be about right. It does not link the aperture and shutter once the exposure value is set like the Contaflex. The Contarex is basically shutter priority and once the speed is set you can adjust the aperture by turning the dial until the needle centres. The 35mm f4 Distagon lens is a bit tatty cosmetically, but there are no scratches or fungi .

It is a beast! Slightly larger, but much heavier than my Contaflex. Just got to start saving up for some lenses for it.

 

[zx9]

An Ebay nostalgia buying spree.

Yashica FR IMG_8680 by Keith Hudson, on Flickr

Identical to the camera and lens which I used in the mid / late 1980's but which was stolen from a girlfriend's hotel room when on loan to her. The original camera took me through O level photography and was used for most of my degree work, it travelled many thousands of mile in my motorcycle tank bag and became very 'brassed' I was really quite attached to the old camera.

The new to me camera has a non working frame counter and needs the foam light seals replacing whilst the lens a Tamron 17A 35 - 70mm has slight fungus on one or more elements. Both are almost generic faults with these items as most examples seem to suffer but as the total cost delivered was under £60 including a very clean 50mm f/2 Yashica ML standard lens, I am very happy. I have started using a 24 exp. roll of Kentmere 100 but really need some nicer light than we have been having recently to get out and about and shooting with a FR for the first time in thirty years, it is a bit like driving your first car again with the emotions attached to places you visited and people you were with.

Perhaps bad form to quote ones own post but seemed like the best place to post these which are from the FR and Tamron 17A.

One Tree Hill 2024-04-06-0008edit by Keith Hudson, on Flickr

Wood Vale 2024-04-06-0016edit by Keith Hudson, on Flickr

Horniman Gardens 2024-04-06-0019edit by Keith Hudson, on Flickr

All taken during walks around our neighbourhood not very exciting pictures but proof that all is good with the camera's operation and the slight fungus in the lens is the only problem there. I did find the negatives a bit dense so might be over exposing both with the Tamron and the ML 50mm (ML photos not shown above) , exposure settings did look ok by sunny f/16 . Next step is re do the light seals on the back and replace the mirror damper foam, which is not actually too bad but I may as well do it, and run through another film using the Minolta IV F for a second opinion on the light levels.
Other than the over exposure I rather like the Kentmere 100 which scanned easily but did benefit from a steep ish curve in Photo Shop but really not too soft.

 

[Strapps]

What should be the final lens for my Nikon kit (famous last words), a 105mm f/2.8 Micro-Nikkor that was being sold by a Japanese chap on eBay with the PN-11 extension tube (required for close to 1:1 macro) and the correct hood. I couldn't resist as he'd priced it the same as every other seller had priced the lens alone and included postage! It's in fantastic condition, even the friction screw functions as it should. Plus, being Nikon, it has a 52mm filter thread that matches every other lens I have for the FE2.

Although now I have all the lenses I said I wanted, I no longer have any excuses to not use them. Maybe I should search out an appropriate TTL flash and then I could probably use a ring flash and you can't go wrong with some additional lighting and ... and ... NURSE! Fetch the screens, the GAS is back!

 

[soupdragon]

New Toys.
Horseman L45 and Schneider SA XL 90mm 110 degrees.

 

[Clive K]

Three as new / unused film backs for my 35mm Contarex and Contaflex cameras should give me more options. Those, a 50mm f4 lens for the 'Rex' that has a bit of lamination in the edge and a cased Minox flash for €60.

 

[richardhurst]

Just got myself a Mamiya 7ii with the 65mm and the 150mm lenses. Absolutely love it!

 

[ChrisR]

Just got myself a Mamiya 7ii with the 65mm and the 150mm lenses. Absolutely love it!

Wow, where's the envy icon???