Show us yer film shots then!

Last shot
Any suggestions on what's going on here? Did I overexpose and the company try and pull the exposure back?

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Amp34 said:
Now some Velvia 100, a little more instragramesq than I'd like... Again I'm not sure if it's a scanning thing or the slides look like this as well
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Well exposed Velvia should look about as far removed from Instagram as you can get! :LOL:

To be honest if you're having difficulty or have specific questions you'd probably be better off creating a new thread rather than asking here, it will be easier to keep track of everything. :)
 
Velvia Instagramesque? Now I've heard everything ;)
 
Amp34 said:
Last shot
Any suggestions on what's going on here? Did I overexpose and the company try and pull the exposure back?

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It looks like you have indeed overexposed and the scanner has tried to recover the highlights making them a bit murky.
 
Amp34 said:
Now some Velvia 100, a little more instragramesq than I'd like... Again I'm not sure if it's a scanning thing or the slides look like this as well. Any recommendations on how to get a more vivid natural colours? Is a white balance filter a possible solution? I'm sure the location/light isn't the best which is probably part of the problem...
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If you want to get accurate colour on Velvia 100 in Kew's glass houses I'd recommend a Light Colour Meter and a set of colour correction filters.

queue the deluge of people saying do it in photoshop.
 
PMN said:
Well exposed Velvia should look about as far removed from Instagram as you can get! :LOL:

To be honest if you're having difficulty or have specific questions you'd probably be better off creating a new thread rather than asking here, it will be easier to keep track of everything. :)
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Thats why I was very surprised it looked the way it did.:LOL: If it was negatve film I'd wonder if maybe that was the problem but scanning a slide should be easy should it not? As I said though I haven't actually seen the slides yet so it may be just an issue with scanning. I will probably start a new thread then. Thanks

abbandon said:
If you want to get accurate colour on Velvia 100 in Kew's glass houses I'd recommend a Light Colour Meter and a set of colour correction filters.

queue the deluge of people saying do it in photoshop.
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It was a problem outside as well (during the day), although sunsets are always just a bit of an odd colour, which is where the white balance filters may come in handy?
 
Amp34 said:
Thats why I was very surprised it looked the way it did.:LOL: If it was negatve film I'd wonder if maybe that was the problem but scanning a slide should be easy should it not?
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I too used to believe that scanning transparencies should be easy; it turns out to be not quite so easy! Samuel gave us some good tips on using IT.8 targets to profile the scanner, which certainly helps. Better exposure helps as well; poor exposure is my biggest problem. Slides are often very dense (particularly Velvia), and many consumer scanners are not really up to the job of punching through the shadows (emulsions originally designed to be projected with a very bright lamp). I'm not quite certain whether the scanners used by most processing companies are hugely better (as opposed to a fair bit better) for this job, but when you find a frame you really want, then getting it drum-scanned is expensive but the right choice...

OH dear, I've continued the discussion on the wrong thread, mea culpa! :bonk:
 
Right, I've finally received the actual film and... First impressions indicate I'm not as bad as I was starting to think I was... The slides don't show anywhere near the same colour shifts and other problems. The pumpkin image looks a lot better, possibly slightly overexposed but not to the extent you should expect it to display like the above.

The B&W negatives also show that there is a lot more data not seen in the scans. I had a couple of high contrast images that looked very poor in scans - for example a shot out of a window with the inside wall and outside image, scan suggests I underexposed the inside but the negative shows tons of detail.

I'm heading away for the weekend but will have a play with photographing the slides myself when I get back to see if I can do a better job than the scans! I'll then start a new thread and stop trashing this one! :)
 
There's something about that that I really, really love - I just can't put my finger on exactly what it is. But I love it :LOL:
 
toadstool said:
There's something about that that I really, really love - I just can't put my finger on exactly what it is. But I love it :LOL:
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Me too....I think it's maybe got a timeless feel to it. That little boy could be me 40 years ago with my Dad...so invokes a certain nostalgia.

Lovely photo, and when it can evoke an emotion as i felt, it makes it really special. Great work
 
DUMBO - Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass
Acros 100 through the Fuji 690 1:100 Rodinal
Drum scanned at 2000DPI, minor tweaks in Lr



A 100% crop for fun
 
Excellent shot Erik and had to look the camera up and gulp it ain't cheap.
 
Thanks Brian. Yes, it is quite expensive new, but I picked it up off eBay for a grand, which is about the same as a Mamiya 7II with 80mm. Downside is the I can't change lenses (which I manage without), upside is the ability to fold it down and put it in my coat pocket. Plus it looks really nice...
 
Steve said:
Me too....I think it's maybe got a timeless feel to it. That little boy could be me 40 years ago with my Dad...so invokes a certain nostalgia.

Lovely photo, and when it can evoke an emotion as i felt, it makes it really special. Great work
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Cheers Steve, I has caught the moment perfectly. I thought about entering it into the September comp, but decided against it lol
 
Oh my Gosh, Osh is G'oshing us with Monogosh. Fabulous.

@wickerman, loving the Fab Four.
 
Some from a trial of a Mamiya C330 S and 135mm lens which I inherited from my father.

Fujifilm Acros 100 developed in Microphen.

All from a walk around Yarmouth, Isle of Wight last weekend.

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Steve.
 
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Steve Smith said:
Some from a trial of a Mamiya C330 S and 135mm lens which I inherited from my father.

Fujifilm Acros 100 developed in Microphen.

All from a walk around Yarmouth, Isle of Wight last weekend.

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Steve.
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That Mamiya is working very nicely Steve. Love the Lifeboat
 
trevorbray said:
That Mamiya is working very nicely Steve. Love the Lifeboat
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Thanks. I was quite pleased with the tones of the lifeboat picture.

Last Saturday was a particularly good day for photography as the light was great. In one direction there were nice looking clouds ranging from fluffy white to dark and stormy with bright sun coming from the other direction - my favourite conditions.

I took part in a Scott Kelby Worldwide Photo Walk* last week where I was the only film user with nineteen others all using digital.

I had the Mamiya on a hand grip and had quite a few "real camera" comments and none of the condescending comments which we sometimes hear about. Quite a few were interested in it and a couple used to have something similar.

The fact that I managed to use up a whole roll of film and took twelve shots seemed hunourous to some!

* http://worldwidephotowalk.com/


Steve.
 
I've got the first test roll of HP5 shot with my new (to me) Minolta Autocord last week, processed by Trumps in Newington, who seem to have done a reasonable job.

1) The first and third frames have strange light artefacts; I think I mentioned I was having problems loading the roll, so that could well explain the first frame, but not the third. This was the second (insurance company building near the Commonwealth Pool):


2) I stopped to take a shot going up Central Meadow Walk (I think), and an old fellow came across for a chat. He'd been intrigued by the camera, having retired and taken up (digital) photography. I spent a few minutes trying to persuade him to try film, then asked him if I could take a photo. Quite pleased with the result as I didn't have time to dig out my X10-meter, ad just had to guess the (contra-jour) exposure:


3) Tried a shot of the Greyfriars Bobby statue, once the japanese kids had stopped climbing all over it. It appears to be 18% grey, rather than black!


4) Down into Grassmarket, with the Castle toweriing above in the sun; the 75mm lens was just right from the pavement; when I've tried for similar shots before it's been standing in the road, which is a bit dodgy!


5)... and finally, in a back lane, and this time I was standing in the road, and had to leap back onto the pavement 3 times while trying to compose and focus this! Just liked the textures. Again the black isn't as black as I'd like.


I'm pretty sure my scanning technique on the V.500 leaves a lot to be desired; they certainly look very flat before going into Aperture, where I've managed to pull a bit more contrast out of them.

I'm quite pleased, and hoping the Weston will arrive soon, prove reasonably accurate, and be easier to use than a X10-meter!
 
Amp34 said:
Thats why I was very surprised it looked the way it did.:LOL: If it was negatve film I'd wonder if maybe that was the problem but scanning a slide should be easy should it not? As I said though I haven't actually seen the slides yet so it may be just an issue with scanning. I will probably start a new thread then. Thanks



It was a problem outside as well (during the day), although sunsets are always just a bit of an odd colour, which is where the white balance filters may come in handy?
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Velvia 100 was pretty much developed for product photography were colour accuracy was important if the light temperature isn't 5500K whatever you take will not be neutral, could be better could be worse.

I spend a lot of time at Kew on dull days they often have lighting on which isn't even faintly close to daylight even shooting digitail I find it easier to wave a colour temperature meter about to get the white balance right.

Before digitail became so prevelant most people knew they had to do some correction with filters to get things right and optinammly these days scanners should be calibrated but not set to correct some of the more sophisticated drum scanners can actually adjust the tones in shadows within pictures.

An article reviewing a few colour meters

I hae the Minolta and the Gossen mostly I prefer the minolta, new these were / are 850 -1000 seconhand they mostly go for 250-300 I got lucky and paid 100 for the Minolta and 119 for the Gossen still not cheap but if you want to seriously shoot slide film they are worth having.


Gossen Sixticolour meters go for a lot less and probably do for a lot of people.


Both of osh's shots are beautiful.

Spot on tones in all of Steve's shots and I love the sky in the first one.
 
Somebody said B/W is about 3 things-

Contrast

Contrast

Contrast

I thought it was Bill Brandt ?

Anyway, whilst trying to find out I came across a Nick Brandt exhibition going down next week in the smoke.

October 21 - November 10 2013
ATLAS GALLERY AT 28 CORK STREET, LONDON
“ACROSS THE RAVAGED LAND”

I'd go but....London......nope, you southern jessies can go though..:)
 
osh said:
Another one from the same roll. This time Afon Hwch in the valley above Llanberis.


Afon Hwch by osh rees, on Flickr
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That's very nice, great tones and very strong composition. Very OSH (y)

joxby said:
Anyway, whilst trying to find out I came across a Nick Brandt exhibition going down next week in the smoke.

October 21 - November 10 2013
ATLAS GALLERY AT 28 CORK STREET, LONDON
“ACROSS THE RAVAGED LAND”

I'd go but....London......nope, you southern jessies can go though..:)
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Thanks for that, I shall take a wander in to have a look at that.
 
Here's one of my wife and our friend from the evening event after this year's Victory Show.


Pam & Jane by Pam & Ben, on Flickr

Shot on Ilford Delta 3200 on a Balda Baldax folding camera, zone focussed, aperture f/8, flash from a Nikon SB-28DX via PC cable.
 
ChrisR said:
I'm pretty sure my scanning technique on the V.500 leaves a lot to be desired; they certainly look very flat before going into Aperture, where I've managed to pull a bit more contrast out of them.
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Love the expression on the guy's face!

Are you making any contrast/brightness adjustments when scanning or are you doing it all in Aperture?
 
PMN said:
Love the expression on the guy's face!

Are you making any contrast/brightness adjustments when scanning or are you doing it all in Aperture?
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Yes, I suspect it's something like "when's this guy going to ACTUALLY take the photo?"!

I'm using Vuescan, and not really sure how to make contrast or brightness adjustments. I do sometimes play with the white and black points, but Vuescan seems to set those pretty well anyway. In most cases I scan at twice the desired dpi and use the 2x size reduction on output, but that shouldn't affect these issues. I also use multi-exposure where there's a significant contrast range; again, that seems pretty automatic once set.

I can select a Graph type of Curve from the Preferences, but I'm not sure what to do with it. It doesn't seem to come equipped with the sorts of controls that the SilverFast or other Curves do!

If anyone can point me to a good primer I'd be grateful.
 
walsh said:
Dinorwic

Lomo LC-wide, lucky colour 200

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What is the metal thing in the corner, I don't recognise it?

Here's some uber low quality mush from me





Rollei Crossbird, that itch now scratched I won't be buying any more!
 
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