Don't get me wrong I'll use my camera as needed, but having owned the A9II and now the A1 I'm just used to the electronic shutter and prefer it, going back to mechanical does seem like taking a step backwards in all honesty. As I prefer electronic shutter anyway it then makes sense for me to use it where I can, and a positive outcome of this is less wear. For me when there's scene/shoot where there's no downsides of using the ES why wouldn't you?
I've only had shutter shock with Olympus, but again if you're shooting something where the ES won't negatively impact you image then why not use it and eliminate any possible risk
1:1, 5:4, 4:3, 16:9, 1.91:1 and 2.35:1 I use 5:4 for shooting schools and use that to frame the subject and I know then at 7:5 I have room to work with
In newer firmware on A1 and I think A9iiiI can't find that on the A7RV
Another 'quirk' I've found with the A7RV is that you can't have a simulated shutter sound when using the electronic shutter. A shutter sound is useful when shooting models etc so they know when to change/break pose.
Where in the menu is that, the only place I can find anything other than 3:2, 4:3, 16:9 and 1:1 is video?
Thanks, sorry I see from your previous reply it's for the A1, I don't have that back yet but will look for it when I do
A high proportion of my images are tripod mounted - I've yet to turn off IS
A high proportion of my images are tripod mounted - I've yet to turn off IS
I’d expect modern IBIS cameras to detect the stationery camera and adjust accordingly - they have the sensors for it. It probably makes no difference (though might for ois lenses still)A high proportion of my images are tripod mounted - I've yet to turn off IS
I take the view that if the camera is on a tripod there will be no camera shake - so IBIS (and OSS) cannot make an improvement - there is, however, a small chance that electrical noise will cause the IBIS / OSS elements to move and degrade the image, so turning it off is minimising that risk.
What’s IBIS, none of my cameras have it - had it once on a Fuji X-H1 - completely overrated IMOI've yet to turn it on
Assuming (to go back to earlier) an electronic shutter not mechanical, and remote/timer release...
What’s IBIS, none of my cameras have it - had it once on a Fuji X-H1 - completely overrated IMO
I just leave mine on and forget about it, never had any negative effect and it helps slow shutter hand helds when I don’t have my tripod
What’s IBIS, none of my cameras have it - had it once on a Fuji X-H1 - completely overrated IMO
@woof woof were you looking for an update to photoshop elements, or have I confused you with someone else? There is a new standalone (none subscription one) that's just been released, or at least I've just had the email about it
Easy photo & video editing software | Adobe Photoshop Elements & Premiere Elements 2025
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Ho ho ho!!Well, it was a Fuji.
I wouldn’t use electronic shutter unless you’re using an A1 or A9II/III. Also, I wouldn’t risk the chance of rolling shutter either. If all Sony camera shutters are fairly similar they’re not too loud and annoying, much quieter than the clatter you got from DSLRsAnother quick one if you don't mind guys.....
What would you do for indoor lighting at a registry office? I'm guessing silent shutter could have flickering/banding issues?
I never really shoot indoors
On older cameras it was pretty much a must to turn off IBIS for tripod work but modern cameras seem to be much cleverer and I’ve not seen a single issue from leaving IBIS on all the time.
I wouldn’t use electronic shutter unless you’re using an A1 or A9II/III. Also, I wouldn’t risk the chance of rolling shutter either. If all Sony camera shutters are fairly similar they’re not too loud and annoying, much quieter than the clatter you got from DSLRs
I would go fully mechanical as the EFCS can still cause some banding, and it can impact the bokeh when using wide apertures, although the latter is more visible in combo with fast shutter speeds which would be unlikely indoors.
It might be worth taking a couple of test shots in the room to check for banding, whilst far less likely you can still get it with mechanical shutter as well as hue shifts and/or exposure differences between the top and bottom of the frame, if this occurs you need to change the shutter speed to one that minimises the effect. The reason you can't just do this with electronic shutters is that they have a finite sensor scan time that you can't alter regardless of shutter speed changes.
) and NP-Z100/JCE service. In box it there's a battery box with a label saying new battery in the box. I can't see how it can be a battery issue when it's played up with 3 different batteries, unless of course one battery causes the fault and then the other batteries don't rectify it and so it appears as though they don't work either 
