The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Agreed.

I'm one of those mutants and have used rangefinder cameras since the 1960s. It's a non-issue (but I'm sure someone will try to make it such) ;)
It's strange as I'm right side dominant with everything except my eye. It was first brought to my attention when I had clay pigeon shooting lessons and had to shoot left handed (I always shot right handed prior) but then I did realise that I'd always intuitively looked through camera viewfinders with my left eye :thinking:
 
It's strange as I'm right side dominant with everything except my eye. It was first brought to my attention when I had clay pigeon shooting lessons and had to shoot left handed (I always shot right handed prior) but then I did realise that I'd always intuitively looked through camera viewfinders with my left eye :thinking:

Me too. I used to use my left eye when playing snooker, but it's not good for longer distances now.
 
It's strange as I'm right side dominant with everything except my eye. It was first brought to my attention when I had clay pigeon shooting lessons and had to shoot left handed (I always shot right handed prior) but then I did realise that I'd always intuitively looked through camera viewfinders with my left eye :thinking:
When I did a bit of archery, I found that I kept both eyes open and that worked surprisingly well.

I also tried clay pigeon shooting and the same approach worked there. An optician I asked about this, told me that this was because my right eye is long sighted and my left eye short sighted, so my brain "switched off" the eye that couldn't focus.

That was a few decades ago. Now both eyes are rubbish without spectacles, so I think it's entirely down to habit that I use my left eye for the viewfinder.

Spectacles on white surface D600 4618.JPG
 
Agreed.

I'm one of those mutants and have used rangefinder cameras since the 1960s. It's a non-issue (but I'm sure someone will try to make it such) ;)
I don't think people make it an issue. One can use anything but by choice they decide/prefer not to.
 
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When I did a bit of archery, I found that I kept both eyes open and that worked surprisingly well.

I also tried clay pigeon shooting and the same approach worked there. An optician I asked about this, told me that this was because my right eye is long sighted and my left eye short sighted, so my brain "switched off" the eye that couldn't focus.

That was a few decades ago. Now both eyes are rubbish without spectacles, so I think it's entirely down to habit that I use my left eye for the viewfinder.

View attachment 431500
With clay pigeon shooting they say they you're supposed to shoot with both eyes open however I can't do this. Another weird fact is that I can only wink with my right eye, can't do it with my left :ROFLMAO:
 
I don't think people make it an issue. One can use anything but by choice they decide/prefer not to.
That was a joke, (the little winking smiley being a clue)
 
I'm right handed but never really the understood "dominant eye" thing. As far as I can tell I'm equally comformable with either eye.
Ahh, you have super powers :cool: :LOL:
 
I’m not sure on the size difference compared to standard cameras.

This should be a side-by-side of the CR vs the RV (probably best comparison?)


I will say it's more of a difference than the SBS shows. I have the smallest "central" A7 (the original) and the Cii is thicker, but a lot shorter, and not having the hump means it fits in, and comes out of more pockets and bags more easily.

My walk-around setup is the Cii and the tiny & light Samyang 35/2.8, which is a combo that makes a wonderful replacement/upgrade from my X100 with the same familiar FOV. It also fits in all the same jacket pockets etc.

If I want to transform it into a "big" camera I have the 35-150 (with a collar on), which is more like holding a lens with a camera hanging off it :)
 
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Just noticed this on one of my bodies, I'm sure that's going to bug me in use :(
There was a chap I worked with who used "plastic metal" to fix things like that.

I watched him repair a dial knob on an old Eddystone communications receiver and when he was done, you couldn't spot the repair. He claimed that the secret was to put just enough on so that you could file in the serrations after the filler had dried out solid.
 
There was a chap I worked with who used "plastic metal" to fix things like that.

I watched him repair a dial knob on an old Eddystone communications receiver and when he was done, you couldn't spot the repair. He claimed that the secret was to put just enough on so that you could file in the serrations after the filler had dried out solid.

It looks like a cap that’s glued onto the part so should be relatively easy repair, either way it’ll have to wait til January to be sorted
 
Just noticed this on one of my bodies, I'm sure that's going to bug me in use :(
Is it this one?

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! £21.86 | New top cover dial wheel repair parts for Sony ILCE-7rM4 A7rIV A7rM4 A7r4 Mirrorless camera

There are lot of spare parts available on Ali express. Enough to build a full camera.

They are only a cover should be able to just pry it off and replace.

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! £24.59 | New top cpver shutter and Iris dial wheel cap repair parts for Sony ILCE-7rM4 A7rIV A7rM4 A7r4 Mirrorless camera
 
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Yes I am just unsure how I would get on with the majority of the camera sitting to the side of my face, I do need to try one out in store, I guess I’m just so used to everything sitting centrally. as above I’ve never looked at one properly I’m only going by pics of them online so I’m not sure on the size difference compared to standard cameras.

I have three MFT RF style cameras, I like them. In the past I had a Canonet Q17 and a Bessa R.
 
This should be a side-by-side of the CR vs the RV (probably best comparison?)


I will say it's more of a difference than the SBS shows. I have the smallest "central" A7 (the original) and the Cii is thicker, but a lot shorter, and not having the hump means it fits in, and comes out of more pockets and bags more easily.

My walk-around setup is the Cii and the tiny & light Samyang 35/2.8, which is a combo that makes a wonderful replacement/upgrade from my X100 with the same familiar FOV. It also fits in all the same jacket pockets etc.

If I want to transform it into a "big" camera I have the 35-150 (with a collar on), which is more like holding a lens with a camera hanging off it :)
Many thanks for the info, I didn’t realise how much of a difference the viewfinder hump makes in the size of cameras.
I can definitely see the appeal now of the rangefinder style camera with the smaller lenses/primes but I do think with the large telephoto lenses they might not be as comfortable for all day use.
I’m going to get out to the local lce over the next few weeks and have a look at the cameras in person and hopefully try the viewfinder etc.
 
Talking of viewfinders I’m not sure if it’s a new thing since the update or whether I just missed it before but the A1 has a “zoom out” feature which is great as I can now see the edges of the frame much more easily :)
 
I’m going to get out to the local lce over the next few weeks and have a look at the cameras in person and hopefully try the viewfinder etc.

If you do, note the Cii has a markedly improved viewfinder from the C. Much more like the “humps” in terms of magnification.

As I say, I have the A7 and the Cii so familiar with both styles if you have questions. X100 for years though, so I like my rangefinder styles (and a MFT G1, plus use of my wife’s Nikon DSLRs though).
 
Is it this one?

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! £21.86 | New top cover dial wheel repair parts for Sony ILCE-7rM4 A7rIV A7rM4 A7r4 Mirrorless camera

There are lot of spare parts available on Ali express. Enough to build a full camera.

They are only a cover should be able to just pry it off and replace.

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! £24.59 | New top cpver shutter and Iris dial wheel cap repair parts for Sony ILCE-7rM4 A7rIV A7rM4 A7r4 Mirrorless camera

Ah thanks I had a quick look before heading out to another wedding! It hasn’t bothered me much today so I may just leave for now.
 
Talking of viewfinders I’m not sure if it’s a new thing since the update or whether I just missed it before but the A1 has a “zoom out” feature which is great as I can now see the edges of the frame much more easily :)
Came with the update, Must be useful if wearing glasses. How are you finding the batteries. I think the update has improved battery life despite all teh reports to the contrary. I shot 6 hours of agility yesterday with a gripped body and never needed to change batteries. The a9iii is even better
 
I've just skimmed a couple of pages so sorry if this has been posted before...

I see the Viltrox 40mm f2.5 is on sale for £122 at grey sites and £158 at Wex... awaiting stock there.

I've been impressed with the Sony 40mm f2.5 and I have to grudgingly admit that it's probably better than the 35mm f2.8 and you get an aperture ring too. I wonder how good the Viltrox will be at a fraction of the price?

Review...

 
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If you do, note the Cii has a markedly improved viewfinder from the C. Much more like the “humps” in terms of magnification.

As I say, I have the A7 and the Cii so familiar with both styles if you have questions. X100 for years though, so I like my rangefinder styles (and a MFT G1, plus use of my wife’s Nikon DSLRs though).
Many thanks, can I ask how you find not having the joystick?
I didn’t have one for years with m4/3s but since I’ve moved to Sony the joystick is so much easier.
I understand the ai tracking modes make life so much easier with the a7c series so I do wonder how much use I’d have for the joystick if I used the ai tracking.
 
I will doubtless be in a minority but I don't see any great improvement with a joystick. I don't think it makes things noticeably easier or quicker than using the back keys. My A7III has a joystick but having now compared the two ways of moving the focus point all I can say is I just don't care and it wouldn't influence what I bought but I suppose with a joystick you could use the back keys for their other functions.

I think given the choice I'd rather have the AF/MF/Exposure lock switch and button than a joystick. Every single time.
 
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I will doubtless be in a minority but I don't see any great improvement with a joystick. I don't think it makes things noticeably easier or quicker than using the back keys. My A7III has a joystick but having now compared the two ways of moving the focus point all I can say is I just don't care and it wouldn't influence what I bought but I suppose with a joystick you could use the back keys for their other functions.

I think given the choice I'd rather have the AF/MF/Exposure lock switch and button than a joystick. Every single time.
I rarely move the focus point as I acquire with the central point and then compose on the fly. The Sony's make that so easy. I'd rather have a second AF on button. I know you can program the push on the joystick to do that but it is too easy to then hit it sideways. I get round that by making it wide or central point but I wouldn't miss it as long as I got a nice tactile button to replace. That goes doubly so as we have touch screen.
 
I love having the joystick on the A7Riii - makes me think when I pick up the A7 though :ROFLMAO:

Joystick for moving the point & a press of it for BBF - I just find that so easy & simple.
 
Came with the update, Must be useful if wearing glasses. How are you finding the batteries. I think the update has improved battery life despite all teh reports to the contrary. I shot 6 hours of agility yesterday with a gripped body and never needed to change batteries. The a9iii is even better
Haven’t really shot much since updating, going to Silverstone on Friday though so I’ll see then (y)
 
I rarely move the focus point as I acquire with the central point and then compose on the fly. The Sony's make that so easy. I'd rather have a second AF on button. I know you can program the push on the joystick to do that but it is too easy to then hit it sideways. I get round that by making it wide or central point but I wouldn't miss it as long as I got a nice tactile button to replace. That goes doubly so as we have touch screen.

I move the focus point for pretty much every picture.

Focus and recompose can work but it's something I very rarely do.
 
WoW.


Expensive.

Looking at the bokeh and sample pictures, I can't see a single bokeh picture I'd have used this lens for or maybe even wanted to take but I suppose they are just to show the bokeh. Most of the non bokeh sample pictures look ok to me though. I think the f1.2 looks a better bet but the f1 is a cine and the f1.2 isn't so I suppose there's room for both.
 
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I move the focus point for pretty much every picture.

Focus and recompose can work but it's something I very rarely do.
Real time tracking negates the use for the old way of focus and recompose. Basically stick the centre point on the subject and then move your composition and the focus point stays on teh subject and moves as they do whilst constantly updating focus. Not all the Sonys have it but the three I use for AF all do. It completely changes the way you focus.
 
I’m hankering for another lens for my Sony A6700. I already have a Sony 16-55 2.8 and a Sony 70-350. I’m after something for low light such as indoor gigs, family christenings etc. all usually low light. I want to retain the benefits of the fast autofocus I have at present and sharpness.

I’m thinking a 1.4 prime something in the focal length between 35-50mm. Google reviews are confusing me or I may be looking for a unicorn lens! I seem to read a review and the lens is very sharp but the autofocus is slow. Or the autofocus is fast but the lens is not very sharp.

Since selling all my Canon RF gear to avoid silly money I’ve been happy with my Sony choice so far. However, this will probably be my last purchase for low light occasions and I want to get it right.

Any thoughts on a suitable lens?
 
Real time tracking negates the use for the old way of focus and recompose. Basically stick the centre point on the subject and then move your composition and the focus point stays on teh subject and moves as they do whilst constantly updating focus. Not all the Sonys have it but the three I use for AF all do. It completely changes the way you focus.

I can see how it'll work and it is something I've tried but it's not something I normally do and I don't know how much time or hassle focus and recompose with tracking would save me over moving the focus point. Plus I've got my framing and I'm not recomposing. Often what I do is put the focus point where I think it needs to be before I raise the camera to my eye so it then only needs fine tuning.
 
I’m hankering for another lens for my Sony A6700. I already have a Sony 16-55 2.8 and a Sony 70-350. I’m after something for low light such as indoor gigs, family christenings etc. all usually low light. I want to retain the benefits of the fast autofocus I have at present and sharpness.

I’m thinking a 1.4 prime something in the focal length between 35-50mm. Google reviews are confusing me or I may be looking for a unicorn lens! I seem to read a review and the lens is very sharp but the autofocus is slow. Or the autofocus is fast but the lens is not very sharp.

Since selling all my Canon RF gear to avoid silly money I’ve been happy with my Sony choice so far. However, this will probably be my last purchase for low light occasions and I want to get it right.

Any thoughts on a suitable lens?

If you are looking to fill the frame more with something you are stood back from, rather than being up there in the middle of the action, I'd think something towards a longer focal length might be more useful?
 
I don’t have a joystick on the A7 so can’t compare, But the AF on the Cii is magical.

As above, the tracking is so good you focus and recompose effortlessly, only on MF lenses do I want to move the zoom point when confirming critical focus. In that case maybe the joystick would be better as I often have the screen folded away? So I’m using the d-pad thingy.
 
Real time tracking negates the use for the old way of focus and recompose. Basically stick the centre point on the subject and then move your composition and the focus point stays on teh subject and moves as they do whilst constantly updating focus. Not all the Sonys have it but the three I use for AF all do. It completely changes the way you focus.
That’s what I do most of the time now, much quicker than moving the AF point around with the joystick/pad. It’s been a godsend.
 
I’m hankering for another lens for my Sony A6700. I already have a Sony 16-55 2.8 and a Sony 70-350. I’m after something for low light such as indoor gigs, family christenings etc. all usually low light. I want to retain the benefits of the fast autofocus I have at present and sharpness.

I’m thinking a 1.4 prime something in the focal length between 35-50mm. Google reviews are confusing me or I may be looking for a unicorn lens! I seem to read a review and the lens is very sharp but the autofocus is slow. Or the autofocus is fast but the lens is not very sharp.

Since selling all my Canon RF gear to avoid silly money I’ve been happy with my Sony choice so far. However, this will probably be my last purchase for low light occasions and I want to get it right.

Any thoughts on a suitable lens?

It sounds like you want the 50 f1.2, but it's twice the size of your camera. ;)
 
Real time tracking negates the use for the old way of focus and recompose. Basically stick the centre point on the subject and then move your composition and the focus point stays on teh subject and moves as they do whilst constantly updating focus. Not all the Sonys have it but the three I use for AF all do. It completely changes the way you focus.
That’s great to know, thank you. Can I ask is af and tracking good enough with the a7cr etc that it negates the need to be fiddling with the focus point all the time?
 
AFAIK the CR is the same AF as my C2 and I’d say yes, with the exception of shooting manual focus lenses where you want to zoom to check focus. But focus peaking does great most of the time there unless shooting something with a very shallow DOF.
 
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