Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

RedRobin said:
.... If any lens, in this case the Olympus 100-400mm, does not support IBIS then it makes no difference what you shoot with it - Stills or video. IS is IS.

I never shoot video so I can't comment whether this presents a potential limitation or not but Olympus OMS are top dog when it comes to IS plus/or IBIS - The other brands are playing catch-up.

On Olympus OMS a lens IS is very good indeed but when it's able to be combined with IBIS it is excellent - A step up regarding image stabilisation overall. You tend to get what you pay for.
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trevjm said:
Thanks for this. I was under the impression that IBIS did work on this but not all 5 axis and that the lens provided 2 elements and IBIS Dealt with the rest, I must have misread/misunderstood….
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RedRobin said:
.... Not necessarily misunderstood. On the OM-1 for example, according to the Instruction Manual there are differences in the behaviour of image stabilisation between shooting stills and video (which I never shoot) but these apply to IBIS. It's the ability of a lens to Sync with it or not which may have an effect. The original question was about the Olympus 100-400mm (which is unable to Sync with IBIS).

It's best that someone reads the Instruction Manual for their camera body to understand the detail and how it does or doesn't limit what they want to achieve.
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trevjm said:
I was aware that the question was about the 100-400. That is the lens I am interested in knowing about use of IBIS and lens OS. There is a lot of conflicting advice regarding whether to turn on or off IBIS when using this lens and use the lens IS only. The following two videos show the use of both with good results.

View: https://youtu.be/oYU46aHQoSo


View: https://youtu.be/k8NN7etVXZY


The second is by Gavin Hoey who I believe is an Olympus Ambassador.

Other users on various forums state success with both still switched on. Or indeed one or other turned off.

Is the requirement to use the lens OS simply for the OM-1?
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Good though Olympus is in many different ways it does puzzle me that 'lens to body communication' and the two firmwares are not able to handle IBIS "on or off".

In other words, if the lens is not fully IS compliant with running at the same time as IBIS then why doesn't IBIS auto switch to 'off' when the 100-400 lens IS is turned on???
 
Box Brownie said:
Good though Olympus is in many different ways it does puzzle me that 'lens to body communication' and the two firmwares are not able to handle IBIS "on or off".

In other words, if the lens is not fully IS compliant with running at the same time as IBIS then why doesn't IBIS auto switch to 'off' when the 100-400 lens IS is turned on???
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Having re-read both the OM-1 and 100-400 manuals, there is no reference to switching off the camera IBIS when combined. Indeed the only reference regarding lens IS is for third party lens which doesn’t help matters.
 
Box Brownie said:
Good though Olympus is in many different ways it does puzzle me that 'lens to body communication' and the two firmwares are not able to handle IBIS "on or off".

In other words, if the lens is not fully IS compliant with running at the same time as IBIS then why doesn't IBIS auto switch to 'off' when the 100-400 lens IS is turned on???
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.... In the Menu, IS equipped lenses offer Priority to either the lens (On) or Priority to the body (Off). Lenses without IS simply won't offer a Priority option.

But if this was done automatically as you suggest, might not there be circumstances where you would want to maintain control rather than the camera? I leave IS on all the time even on a tripod (except when panning moving subjects) and I don't have any problems.

In fact, on a fluid gimbal head recently I discovered that IBIS was Off and it was making target accuracy at 2000mm very wobbly. I don't remember disabling IBIS and the lens IS was On as usual. Switching IBIS to IS-Auto in the Menu restored steadiness.
 
trevjm said:
Having re-read both the OM-1 and 100-400 manuals, there is no reference to switching off the camera IBIS when combined. Indeed the only reference regarding lens IS is for third party lens which doesn’t help matters.
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.... Why not phone OM Customer Support and talk through what you are wanting to achieve? They are always very helpful.
 
trevjm said:
Having re-read both the OM-1 and 100-400 manuals, there is no reference to switching off the camera IBIS when combined. Indeed the only reference regarding lens IS is for third party lens which doesn’t help matters.
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RedRobin said:
.... In the Menu, IS equipped lenses offer Priority to either the lens (On) or Priority to the body (Off). Lenses without IS simply won't offer a Priority option.

But if this was done automatically as you suggest, might not there be circumstances where you would want to maintain control rather than the camera? I leave IS on all the time even on a tripod (except when panning moving subjects) and I don't have any problems.

In fact, on a fluid gimbal head recently I discovered that IBIS was Off and it was making target accuracy at 2000mm very wobbly. I don't remember disabling IBIS and the lens IS was On as usual. Switching IBIS to IS-Auto in the Menu restored steadiness.
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As I struggled with this on my EM1.2 and will shortly be doing the same setting up my new OM1 , I've noticed that the same sentence appears in both manuals .....


When using a third-party lens with on-board image stabiliser, choose whether IS gives priority to the camera or lens.
NB this option has no effect if the lens is equipped with an IS switch that can be used to enable or disable IS.

However, the Black Fox told me that this was not true and that I should have it switched ON! And does it refer to the Olly 100-400 as well? It's all very confusing.
 
jerry12953 said:
As I struggled with this on my EM1.2 and will shortly be doing the same setting up my new OM1 , I've noticed that the same sentence appears in both manuals .....


When using a third-party lens with on-board image stabiliser, choose whether IS gives priority to the camera or lens.
NB this option has no effect if the lens is equipped with an IS switch that can be used to enable or disable IS.

However, the Black Fox told me that this was not true and that I should have it switched ON! And does it refer to the Olly 100-400 as well? It's all very confusing.
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I love how manuals are clear as mud :rolleyes:

I would assume from this that with lenses equipped with and IS switch priority is always given to the lens and the Lens IS switch is the overriding control, however that's only an assumption. It would be nice if manufacturers made these things clear.
 
lets put this to bed as there seems to be lots of confusion .. and this is ONLY in regard to the 100-400 lens .... there is NO synch between the lens or body on the 1-mk2 1-mkiii or om1 , as long as your firmware is up to date you will however get pitch and yaw enabled ..

this is purely down to the lens specs and there is no way round it ,Gavin hoeys video was made while the lens was pre-release and I dont think he really understood the full concept .

so what you need to do is turn on i.s on the lens , go into cog menu and C2 and turn on LENS I.S PRIORITY .. there is no way round it that is the only setting that will give reliable i.s with that lens .

the i.b.i.s system is designed for shorter focal length lenses up to about 150mm thats why lots of them work without a lens i.s button . and for them turn off lens i.s priority .setting up a custom mode for the 100-400 is probably best if you change lenses a lot
 
the black fox said:
the i.b.i.s system is designed for shorter focal length lenses up to about 150mm thats why lots of them work without a lens i.s button . and for them turn off lens i.s priority .setting up a custom mode for the 100-400 is probably best if you change lenses a lot
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Cheers. That seems like a very good suggestion.
 
Box Brownie said:
Good though Olympus is in many different ways it does puzzle me that 'lens to body communication' and the two firmwares are not able to handle IBIS "on or off".

In other words, if the lens is not fully IS compliant with running at the same time as IBIS then why doesn't IBIS auto switch to 'off' when the 100-400 lens IS is turned on???
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I was thinking the same, but I assume it doesn’t know if the attached lens has IS or not - there must be some connection the Pro IS lenses have that other lenses don’t - whether Olympus or third party.
If it doesn’t have lens IS, I assume you’d want ibis ON, and only the photographer knows.
 
Bebop said:
I was thinking the same, but I assume it doesn’t know if the attached lens has IS or not - there must be some connection the Pro IS lenses have that other lenses don’t - whether Olympus or third party.
If it doesn’t have lens IS, I assume you’d want ibis ON, and only the photographer knows.
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Yes bebop with the pro lenses you are paying for those extra electronic connections plus better glass . I.b.I.s in my experience works fine up to around 300mm as long as it’s coupled with a larger apeture as well .the Olympus 300 mm f4 is full synch so that just works , with my Nikon 300mm f4 which is MF only I have I.b.I.s switched on and seem to have it working at F4 but that’s hard to prove one way or another … my shorter length lenses a couple which are four thirds also appear to work ,I.e there’s definetly no jumping around in the EVF . It’s not really possible to say it is or it isn’t working all we can do is base our statements on many years of experience with other types ,brands ,and models of cameras and lenses ..
The old sigma long lenses if you ever owned any used to jump around in the VF till they stabilised . Things have moved on a lot in the last 20 years so stop questioning things and just enjoy
 
the black fox said:
Yes bebop with the pro lenses you are paying for those extra electronic connections plus better glass . I.b.I.s in my experience works fine up to around 300mm as long as it’s coupled with a larger apeture as well .the Olympus 300 mm f4 is full synch so that just works , with my Nikon 300mm f4 which is MF only I have I.b.I.s switched on and seem to have it working at F4 but that’s hard to prove one way or another … my shorter length lenses a couple which are four thirds also appear to work ,I.e there’s definetly no jumping around in the EVF . It’s not really possible to say it is or it isn’t working all we can do is base our statements on many years of experience with other types ,brands ,and models of cameras and lenses ..
The old sigma long lenses if you ever owned any used to jump around in the VF till they stabilised . Things have moved on a lot in the last 20 years so stop questioning things and just enjoy
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My most used lens is my 300mm and I’m thankful I haven’t had to think about this. I have fed this info back to my friend.

It’s great we have forums like this and you good people of course, sharing your knowledge.
 
jakeblu said:
Having taken a number of photos of the inside of churches and cathedrals I can safely say that’s low light.
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It is, but what I was meaning is that when talking about noise and low light what they really mean is noise and high ISO, although in reality it's more a combined effect of ISO and light as shooting at 3200 ISO in bright light shouldn't produce too much noise (not sure why you'd do this though), likewise base ISO in low light shouldn't produce too much noise.

All this being said M4/3, especially the newer ones, are much better in low light/high ISO than a lot of people believe. I'd 'happily' shoot m4/3 at ISO 3200 if I needed to.
 
snerkler said:
Nice pics, first one in particular. Not the best low light example though as they’re shot at base ISO ;)
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I wasn’t meaning to be facetious with my previous post and I do get what you meant. The image doesn’t show how well the Olympus deals with high iso noise relying on the ibis to keep the ISO down, but sometimes ibis would not help in some situations eg where there is movement.

Edit Whoops, cross posts :)
 
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I kind of forgot the photos were shot at iso200 as that’s what my camera is always set at ! Thanks to the IBIS and because I don’t shoot moving objects I rarely if ever need to change it !
 
justa1972 said:
The problem with M43 is that they are just rubbish in low light ;) (sharper on flickr)


[url=https://flic.kr/p/2nByuC9]
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.... Both these are fabulous! Glorious!!

I don't care what ISO or noisiness they do or don't have - They are a very evocative images superbly capturing atmosphere, light and detail. The rest is academic piffle IMO.

Out of interest, did you use a tripod or handheld?
 
RedRobin said:
.... Both these are fabulous! Glorious!!

I don't care what ISO or noisiness they do or don't have - They are a very evocative images superbly capturing atmosphere, light and detail. The rest is academic piffle IMO.

Out of interest, did you use a tripod or handheld?
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Thanks Robin that’s kind - handheld
 
Agreed well done indeed .not my type of shots but it makes me wonder how other brands / makes of cameras would cope in the same conditions / light and handheld
 
the black fox said:
Agreed well done indeed .not my type of shots but it makes me wonder how other brands / makes of cameras would cope in the same conditions / light and handheld
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I can’t handhold my Sony at as slow shutter speeds as the Olympus, usually it needs to be 2-3 stops faster negating any ISO handling advantage.
 
the black fox said:
Agreed well done indeed .not my type of shots but it makes me wonder how other brands / makes of cameras would cope in the same conditions / light and handheld
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I’ve used just about every system there is and I am just as happy if not more happy with these images
 
Just received this from Olympus after I enquired which online retailers you can buy from and still qualify for promotions

Screenshot 2022-08-01 at 13.14.00.png
 
snerkler said:
Just received this from Olympus after I enquired which online retailers you can buy from and still qualify for promotions

View attachment 362305
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.... That list is not complete. I got a cashback after buying my 8-25mm F/4 PRO from Ffordes in Scotland and it got paid quickly too.

Am glad to read their confirmation about what I reported earlier about Amazon.
 
RedRobin said:
.... That list is not complete. I got a cashback after buying my 8-25mm F/4 PRO from Ffordes in Scotland and it got paid quickly too.

Am glad to read their confirmation about what I reported earlier about Amazon.
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I can only relay what they told me ;) (y)
 
snerkler said:
I can only relay what they told me ;) (y)
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.... Of course. That's all any of us can do. I was just sharing what I knew < And hoping it was true! :ROFLMAO:
 
SRS Microsystems is a main dealer to, and what about shops that aren’t affiliated do
 
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I phoned OMS Support in Prague this afternoon and asked them what their recommended settings were for image stabilisation when using the Olympus 100-400 with an OM-1 camera. They would not commit to a particular setting such as Lens IS or camera IBIS or both. They suggested it was a case of trial and error and go with what worked best..... Their view was that camera IBIS switched on as well as lens IS switched on would do no harm....
 
trevjm said:
I phoned OMS Support in Prague this afternoon and asked them what their recommended settings were for image stabilisation when using the Olympus 100-400 with an OM-1 camera. They would not commit to a particular setting such as Lens IS or camera IBIS or both. They suggested it was a case of trial and error and go with what worked best..... Their view was that camera IBIS switched on as well as lens IS switched on would do no harm....
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.... That's more or less what I had been told too and I can understand why. There is no single magic formula because there are so many factors. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

Trial and error is how I have been developing my settings for panning trains. OMS Support have given me very good basic advice about it which have got me to base camp but these aspects are then better built on according to individual preferences for the resulting image.
 
trevjm said:
I phoned OMS Support in Prague this afternoon and asked them what their recommended settings were for image stabilisation when using the Olympus 100-400 with an OM-1 camera. They would not commit to a particular setting such as Lens IS or camera IBIS or both. They suggested it was a case of trial and error and go with what worked best..... Their view was that camera IBIS switched on as well as lens IS switched on would do no harm....
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Did you speak to the technical team or just a general customer service person?
 
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